Ok, I have finally fixed all sources of vacuum leaks (had to weld the cracked intake plenum) and now my car doesn't idle at 2200 rpm any more!!!
My question is about how to set the idle now. I don't have an air-fuel monitor to set the idle mixture on the ECU, but I seem to remember a shade tree method of setting it close. I assume that the mixture needs to be set first, then adjust the idle speed with the air bleed on the throttle body?

Well, if everything is stock and in perfect condition on your 2.0, you can set the idle CO knob on the ECU to the "factory" setting. If you look on the plastic surround of the knob (the circular part on the outside that is fixed to the case), you should see a mark on it, looks like someone did it with a soldering iron. That's the position of the knob where the speed control circuit of the ECU alone sets the idle injection duration. On early D-Jetronic cars, there was no knob, and this is the setting that was used for idle.

Most cars I've worked on where I've set the CO using my meter were within +/-3 clicks of this position. If not, there was usually something else that was wrong that needed to be fixed first.

I've heard reports that there are some ECU's that lack the mark on the plastic surround, perhaps these are rebuilts or there's some other explanation. In those cases, you're on your own looking for a starting point. In any case, mark or no mark, I suggest taking your car to a local shop with a quality CO analyzer and setting the idle there, with the motor fully warmed up. Generally, the cars run better with the CO set to the upper limit of the factory range (usually between 2.5 and 3.0%).

Mr. Anders, would that be Brad Anders? I keep your djet site in my favorites for reference. Lots of great stuff. Thank you.

Yeah, what he said! Thanks for your response, Brad.. I too have your site bookmarked, maybe I need to read it again?!?!haha I just went out and looked for the mark you spoke of, and I see a notch taken out of the plastice surround about 180 degrees from where the ratchet catch thing is, so that may be the mark you speak of. If it is, how is the knob supposed to line up with it. There is a little tit on the side of it, is this where you would align it?

Also, I may take it to a friends shop and analyze the exhaust to set it. You speak of setting the CO to 2.5 to 3.0%, are there other variables to look at? (I am a noob to tuning these things right...)

Hey there Brad Welcome to the Club. I agree with Curt, you & your site has helped me immensely. Glad you popped in

..........b

Yes, the tit aligns with the notch. I usually start with it there then adjust the idle at the throttle body. Nice find

.........b

Brad,

everything "ok" health wise ? You back on your feet now ?


B

Brad, good to see you here. I too was wondering how you're health is? I read about your operation on your web page. Gald everything went ok.

Thanks for asking, I'm doing fine. Modern cardiac surgery is pretty amazing. While I'm natrually paranoid and don't want to tempt fate, I really can't tell I even had surgery. I'm riding my bike, doing what I want with no restrictions.

Me too
Excellent site.
Thanks Brand

Welcome Brad! Glad you are here....

Thanks and God's speed Brad.
Keep up the rehab. That was stainless steel wires they use, right?
L. McChesney

I sure hope so, we don't want Brad Anders to rust from the inside out!

Good to see you here Brad!


Geoff

Stainless, that's the stuff. BTW, you won't hear me bitch about how much those 914 heater hoses cost again. The Dacron graft they used on me costs ~$6000 for about 4 inches of material.