well, after some soul searching and a little lecture from the wife, I'm going to sell the "ricer" 16x7 4 x 100 bolt pattern rims and go back to the 4 x 130 pattern.

Hopefully I wont take a bath too bad on the rims and tires
(tires are Dunlop SP Sport FM901's, sized 205/45/16 )

Mike Rose has offered to let me borrow an extra set of 15x5.5 enkies that I had used last year. The wife would rather me buy a set of rims than borrow, so mabye we can work something out

After thinking about the bolt pattern conversion and talking to Brad about it, I'm better off ditching the idea since it might be a hard sale to an inspector at an auto-x or time trial.....it's better to play it safe and know when to fold 'em.......don't worry, I'm not done "doing things different"

We all figured you would come around......

Do you have any interest in a set of mahles with 205 Yokohama Intermediates on them? I think they are about 30-40% used.

Fiid (takin bold steps)

I've got 2 sets of steels, one with usable tires, and some polished rivs..

I REALLY dont want them... but im not up to completely giving them away yet..

Andrew

(also taking bold steps)

but I would go with Fiids if I where you...

good news/bad news...i just recieved an e-mail from one of the head tech inspectors for our local PCA, he would let the re-drilled setup pass....

Hey Fiid,
4 lug fuchs or mahles would work, not too sure about those ballons you have mounted on there, LOL

Andrew,

you'd have to pay me to take those riv's off your hands, hahahaha

Mike, I see a set of Panosports in your future. I think they'd look great on your car.

Lol mike

Thats the exact problem I have right now.

Cant blame me for trying!!

Andrew

I think 15x7 Panasports would be a killer setup if you want to stick with 4-lug. They're light and strong and good-looking...but aren't cheap though.

What's the cheapest way to go with Panosports? How much could I get for my 2.0 Fuchs?

i think the street Panasports are in the $200 range while the race (and lighter) versions are about $30-$40 more....

the biggest problem is getting them, I understand there is a backorder on them right now....


Compomotive has a rim that'll fit our cars, not sure about price or lead time:

I think the Comp. looks better than the Panasport:

Well done, Mike.

It takes a real man to be able to regroup and change direction like you have, especially in light of how committed you were to making the other plan work.

-Rusty

There ya go Mike. A wise man knows when to turn back...

It's a lot more fun to drive a 914 (even on rivs ) than to stare at it in the garage. Get that car going!

Why don't you redrill the wheels. You have a complete machine shop. We used to get wheels with oval shaped holes in them. then depending on your bolt pattern you installed a counter sunk oval shaped steel washer for the lugs. There have been hundreds of millions sold over the years. I had this done to a set of American Torque-Thrust five spokes. Changed the pattern from 4 1/2" Ford to 4 3/4" GM. I used to drag race with them. (500 hp big block Chev ran 11 sec et) Worked for me...

Why are you giving up?

What issues did you run into? I was thinking of going this route myself but if it can’t be done I’d like to know now. I think I’ve seen it done before and if it will pass tech I don’t get it.

You could get some cheap wheels for now and tackle this job after the WCC or whenever you get a spare set of hubs done.

rich 918-S,

I had those same rims, little oval washers on my Nova
(aneamic 307 w/3 on the tree)

Right now my machine shop is a disaster, I'm still building my workshop, all I need to do is insulate and sheetrock 2 more walls, however, the biggest problem is that my Bridgeport is broke, my smaller benchtop mill is broke and my lathe won't work for this type of mods. I've got connections in "real" shops that make me killer deals on my personal jobs, it's just a time issue again with them.

Structually, i think the re-drilling of the hubs/flanges is fine since we have never heard of the 5-lug guys haveing problems doing this to the front or the rear.

However, maybe it's piece of mind, I don't need distractions going into corner 1 at Thunderhill pushing 110 and worring about my re-drilled front hubs


Mark,

Hubs are done, rims and tires mounted on car (0 miles besides putting the car on the trailer and off), basicly I buggered up a set of rear rotors, nothing too big of deal, get new rotors, do them correctly and move on.

The front hubs need to be redone (I used old worn rotors) or, and this is what was going to get expensive;
install custom hats/rotors and calipers such as Coleman Racing or Wilwood, this is what I really wanted to do, right now, it's not the time for such grandious modifications.

Like I mentioned earlier, the idea has been signed off by a respected local Auto-X/time trial Tech, but I don't want to run into issues later on down the road. Someone with a daily driver/auto-x car could run these re-drilled parts and rims and never have any problems until it came time to replace the brakes, then new front hubs would have to be drilled/studded and the rear rotors would have to be drilled.

When our new billet front hubs w/vented 911/914-6 rotors (any bolt pattern you want within reason) is finally available, i might go back to the "odd" pattern, the rims are cheap enough so that it won't hurt too much.

I already swapped back to the original front hubs (parted out a car a few months ago and kept the suspension), the hardest and expensive part will be redoing the rear flanges.

Who knows, if I cannot sell my 4x100 rims and tires, I might "have" to use them down the road

I test fit my 4x130 16x9's last night.....too bad I'd have to pull out the fenders.....besides, i think 9's are overkill on street car with a semi-stock motor

I remember when you initially posted your idea and I was jealous that you had the ability to make such cool changes at home. I am also a bit confused on why there would be a problem. 90% of us with 5 bolt conversions have re-drilled rear rotors and I have yet to hear of a single failure. Is it the fronts that concern you? Did you simply re-drill the front rotors? if they were virgin rotors, why would that be any different than our stock set ups? Sorry for the 20 questions, it just seemed like such a good idea in terms of wheel availability, and didn't seem any different than a stock set up where safety was concerned. really cool....

Hey Scott,

yea, it's mostly the fronts that I don't like, you can see pictures here:
914club Classifieds

I've never hear of a front /4 hub fail that has been redrilled to a 5x130 pattern, and that setup would be more prone to failure due to the nature of the modifications.

Just right now, timing is bad, and i need to move on to get the car up and running and I don't have the time/energy to do what I want/need to do. It's easier to just go back to the stock setup since I already have all the parts and everything is bolt on.

On the front rotor, what prevents you from indexing it 45 degrees so you're not so close to the original bolt holes?



Did you show them the same picture of the rear rotor that you showed us?

Just curious. I like the wheels, just not crazy about how the bolt pattern was working out. And I see why re-drilling the wheel won't work in this particular case.

Jon, I was just getting ready to type that same question.

on the front rotor, indexing it would interfer with the webing on the inside, not a modification I'd want to have to do to all 4 webs.

the rear flanges I had a buddy do at a shop, he should have indexed the new holes 45°, that way the rear rotors wouldn't be that big of deal.....

On those rims that Jon showed a pic of, they are called dual pattern.
One is the 100mmX4 VW/honda pattern, what is the other?

Anyone know if our front rotors are shared with the '66-'79 VW beetle/ghia?? They look the same. If so, then you can just buy 4x100 front rotors. You can also buy native 5x130 front rotors:

custom VW rotors

I'm guessing they are probably not the same or someone would have done this long ago. But ff they are the same, then this is the way to go.

The rears are easy since the pattern can be indexed by 45 degrees.

Demick

Nope, just checked, the disc is about 10mm off. Wish they were the same because you can get blank rotors.

10mm how?? Diameter or ???

Speaking of 10mm...

Mike, I tried to buy some parts through your distribution network today. Knock off working on the hubs and make some rear trailing arm needle bearing kits... My car has requested one set.

The wheel face to the disc face, the 914 disc part sits back 10mm more. (I called this the backspace in the specs below.) This is approximate as I did it with a tape measure. There "could" be other differences, I didn't check.

I have a new ghia rotor, right here in front of me, if you want all the specs. I don't have a 914 rotor off (or new) to check the specs on the race seats, etc.

A new ghia blank rotor drilled in the Porsche pattern.

The specs, backspace 2.120, inner bearing OD 1.985, outer bearing OD 1.590, seal seat 2.049, between bearing race seats 1.600 (+/- .010) and total lenght of hub 2.160

The back, notice no reinforcement ribs, the casting is thicker in this area so a blank can be drilled in almost any pattern.