Bolt on Fender flares; Bunch of questions...

When calling the Bug Shops, what is the stuff I should ask for? I'm looking for that black piece that goes between the fender and flare.

What bolts are typically used to hold these on? Would quick release fasteners be an advantage? Any close up Pics would be very helpfull.

What spacing looks and functions best? Again Close up pictures woudl be appreciated.

What Company sells the best "street quality" flare? HPH [Brad?]? Same question applies for GT rockers and bumpers.

Can't afford to pay a welder right now and I need more fender room for a better alignment. Bolt on looks to be the best answer right now.

TIA,

Fender Welting.

i s'pose you could use Dzsus fasteners but i donno why. 934's just used Pop rivits, basically...
i'll see if i can find some 934 pictures to post ...

i don't think i'd go much closer than 1" spacing, use as many as necessary to achieve good conformance.

Yes, it is just fender welting. Don't skimp, buy the good stuff. It is twice as expensive at a whopping 20.00 to do the whole car. The bead is bigger and it is more like rubber than plastic/vinyl.

You will be compressing the fender welting - so that means more pressure on the flair. I spoke to the guys at Better Bodies. They suggested stainless round headed torx screws and a soft washer. I couldn't find enough of these in stainless, so I went with the same look, but phillips head instaed of torx. I used a hard rubber washer undernieth with a metal washer and a lock washer inside the fender well. I think mine are spaced 5 or 6 inches on center. I spent a ton of time getting the flair to lie flat on the car prior to painting so that there was no gaps/pressure points. That is why I was able to spread the attachment points. NOTE: even if you have dont this too, I highly advise against rivets. Again, you will be compressing the fender welting gasket so you need to spread out the force. Rivet heads are small and you could easily crack the flair when you apply the pressure needed to compress the welting. Using screws/bolts also lets you get everything on the car loosley before tightening everything up. Also make sure you silicone the holes you drill - great place for rust to start if you dont.

Sorry - no upclose pics.

how's this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

[QUOTE]Can't afford to pay a welder right now and I need more fender room for a better alignment.

If you just need some room for alignment, why not use the baseball bat flaring technique?
L. McC

Need one hell of a bat!!

I'm running 225s on the back right now with very little room to spare. Also, my fenders are just about FUBAR anyway. I need to do a bunch of temporary (read DACO) rust repares and paint so I figured I migt as well get something cool.

That look like the stuff - however that is a canadian auction - not sure how frieght works. Do you have a good bug shop in your area?

Still confussed. Your subject speaks of fiberglass flares, but it seems you are talking about using steel flares.
I put the fiberglass flares 9"/11" on and would be glad to guide you.
Let me know.
L. McC

There isn't a huge Bug following around here, so I'll be buying my stuff mail order. Doing a search on Froogle, JC Whitney looks like it has similar stuff at about $4 per foot (I think?). If I remember correctly, there used to be a Bug shop called Rocky Mountain... something. I'll try looking that up too. Any other ideas?


LM, I am talking about 'glass. When I get some extra 'fun' money, I'll replace all fenders with new steel and add steel flares to those. For now though, I just want to get the car "good enough'. It's looking like it will be quite some time before I can do all of the work I was hoping to have done by now.

I figure I can do a quick strip of the MAACO paint job, POR15 the rough spots and use their epoxy patch stuff for the holes. I can get the plastic body stuff now (sans lids and cooler shroud) and mount it myself in my driveway. Then I'll spray the car it's original yellow so I won't need to totally disassemble the car (just like MAACO hadn't done when they painted it red). I will probably do a bit of custom paintwork too, though I'm not sure what that'll be anymore.

You might try Restoration Specialties
Restoration Specialties
They have an online (pdf) catalog. Fender welting is on Page 89.
Not really a Porsche house, but very useful for any old car trim pieces. Before the 914 I had a 50 Studebaker for a toy car

Harvey Hoover

Randal's race car has rivet fastened FG fenders.
It looks great. Nice two-tone.

screw on flares ( thread 10-23-2003 )

When I did mine I didn't run the fender welting I just hand fitted the flares to each fender. Go with all stainless hardware. I used button head allens with lock nuts on the back side. I can't remember my spacing but it isn't much more than an inch.

Look for flares from AIR. I think theirs are handlaid unlike the GT racing flares.

Scott,
Can you fill me in on what you did to the flare to get it to fit well? While I figure this is "temporary", I am an anal retentive sort. Besides, temporary can mean a lot of thing in the early stages of parenthood.

I reread Randal's posts on the flares. I'm still not that scared to do the work myself. I too like the two tone paint though I want something a litle more period correct... or as correct as possable using the wrong materials. Still need some paint ideas. I want the base to be sunflower yellow, but I'l like to do a bit of custom work too. Maybe I'll procede with the hippie scheme I had thought of doing in the past.

Who sells the better quality FG stuff? Patrick (Hi Zois!)? Pelican? GT Racing? AIR (I doubt it)? Does HPH sell this stuff (Hi Brad!)?

i just got a 911RS front bumper and splitter from Getty; decent prices, good quality. made-to-order so don't be in a rush ...