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papermaster
Per the mechanic - states he has to remove the engine to pinpoint to the problem of

1974 2.0 L with a tune up by high performance house less than three weeks ago. Only noticed (the day before car finally died) was slight hesitation (as in sputter, and cough) when attempting to accelerate slightly.

Next morning after normally warm up - drive to bank and noticed (going up small hill) car had slight hesistation (2nd gear about 35 and attempting to give gas "slightly" to speed up to 45 posted limited the car acted as though either too much air or starving for fuel. Get to bank, shut off car. Attempt to restart no joy, starter is cranking and either (guessing) no spark or fuel to turn car over.

Have car towed to shop and originally told probably fuel pump or relay. Now after four days, they claim they'll need to remove the engine to fully pin point the problem.

Going to do a face to face with mechanic for more info As going to ask how did they rule out the problem of relay and or fuel pump but wanted to run by the group first.

Also can anyone recommend a good 914 shop in ventura county (live in Camarillo, CA - which is about 40 miles south of Santa Barbara.

TIA

5/13 - Update to the above

Talked to the mechanic in the shop (heavy Italian accent) and he states that the engine is getting spark and fuel. He stated it appears there is a problem with two valves being open which requires that he pull the engine so he can check the camshaft and crankshaft at a cost of $2400, but he say if we go this route, for 3K, he can rebuild my engine with a 18,000 mi warranty.

Can one really get a reliable engine for 3K?

Agains thanks everyone for the replies, learning a lot.
Levi
Well I'm no 914 mechanic, (YET) but I have never removed a chevy engine to figure out why it wouldn't start....Sound like a load of shit to me..
Chris H.
That really does not sound necessary at all. Unless the engine needs to be rebuilt it should not need to be removed from the car. How is he going to pinpoint the problem with the fuel lines and battery disconnected? You should find another mechanic.
nebreitling
sounds bogus. engines are a lot easier to troubleshoot when they're in the car than when they're not. Especially ignition or FI problems, which it sounds like you've got.

fix it yourself. this board/pelican can help. you'll learn a lot, save some money, and have fun in the process. well, you'll be frustrated as hell, but it will some how seem fun after it runs again.
seanery
TRE in North Hollywood
Werks II in Burbank

I know there's got to be more but I lived in South Bay area.
ppickerell
So my wife's gynecologist tells me that he can only diagnose her problem if he sleeps with her first....I don't think so.
ppickerell
Last time my teener did that to me I pulled the dizzy cap and turned the key to see if the points had spark, and then pulled an injector to see if we had fuel. You should be able to conduct these tests without pulling the motor. Regarding shops in your area, I was considering MikeZ's motor for sale and called the shop that rehabbed it and was impressed with the proprieters savvy even though I probably won't buy the motor (another story entirely). They are in Santa Barbara and Mike may be able to post contact info.
Joe Bob
Schneider's in Santa Barbara is good.....
papermaster
Thanks for the replies to date - will check them out,

Does anyone know the quality of

Klaus Holthaus - in Reseda CA?
Joe Bob
Nope.....If you are going all the way to SmelLA....I would try TRE in North Hollywood. Dave Bozaglou. Tell him Mike Z sent ya.

He won't charge ya double....promise. biggrin.gif
seanery
Dave's work is top notch!
Slowpoke
Anything that quits after a recent tune-up, ah..... sounds like the ignition points may have closed up. Might try that first. <_<
Brad Roberts
I recall the car.. ran really nice.. Varik drove it around for awhile before you took delivery (he drove it from SF to Camarillo) I really cant think that it is anything serious. It could easily be a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump.

OH.. FYI it has a Pertronix in it. No points. They rarely leave this shop with points if they came in for a tuneup.

I highly suggest you take it to one of these shops mentioned in this thread. Feel free to have whomever you decide to take it too give me a call. I'll pull the invoice on the car and tell them exactly what we did to it.

650-364-6234


B
Dead Air
The guy we bought our '73 said his car "just quit". Now that the thing has sat for eight plus years. we will have to pull the engine. PCA tech bulletin said injectors should be rebuilt as a matter of course. When I checked the oil it was barely touching the stick but appeared clean. Rebuilding the engine sounds like a breeze, getting the thing running sounds like another thing.
Bleyseng
When I got the 70 car, the PO said the car just quit (1983).
I dismantled the car and when taking the engine apart I found that the CHT had dead shorted against the tin. Hmmm, this is why I thought.
Usually, these things are a simple fix ie a loose wire, loose hose or something like that.

Geoff
Rusty
QUOTE(Dave Eddy @ May 13 2004, 06:01 PM)
The guy we bought our '73 said his car "just quit". Now that the thing has sat for eight plus years. we will have to pull the engine. PCA tech bulletin said injectors should be rebuilt as a matter of course. When I checked the oil it was barely touching the stick but appeared clean. Rebuilding the engine sounds like a breeze, getting the thing running sounds like another thing.

Hi Dave! If I haven't said welcome, already... Welcome!

Pull the engine just because it's been sitting? Sounds a bit extreme to me. Change the oil, and the fuel... and start troubleshooting from there.

Most "engine won't turn over" issues are pretty basic, unless for some reason the engine is totally frozen up.

-Rusty smoke.gif
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