So I screwed up one of my bearings last night. The first one just slid right in smooth as glass. The second one went in a little cockeyed and wouldn't budge. Had to pound it out, one bearing down. So I went and got a new bearing this AM, and a few pounds of dry ice to cool it down super fast. A little persuasion with an appropriate drift and it was sunk home.

Put the trailing arm on the car, and fab'd up the PP tech article tool and started cranking it down. Well something went wrong, too small of a socket or too weak of a washer (it bent), and the hub ended up a little cockeyed in the bearing. Not too far in maybe 1cm. stuck fast, so seeing no other option, I tapped it out from the rear. I just want to make sure the bearing is screwed, right? The seal popped off a little bit and I can see the balls in on the race. I can't think of any actual bearing bits that I damaged, but if the seal has popped out, that's pretty much it for the bearing, right? If I weren't going to take the car anywhere, I guess I'd just try and reseat the seal and see where the chips fall, but I don't want to replace any bearings on the road, so I'm best off replacing it rather than trying to reseal it, right?

Thanks,

Adam

Re-seal it.
Prize the nylon seal back in, as long as no crap contaminated the bearing internals

Next time just insert the stub axle by hand as far as it will go easily. There will be just enough threads sticking out that you can get the castle-nut started if you turn it over and thread it on upside down. Spin it a few turns to pull the stub through a ways, then flip the castle-nut around so it's right-side-up and finish pulling the stub through the hub. This method is best because you are squeezing the bearing halves together as you pull the stub through with the nut. There is no force pulling the bearing apart such as is the case if you drive the stub into the hub from the back with a mallet of something. Hope that helps.

I don't know why Pelican recommends making a tool. The above has always worked like a charm for me.

-Ben M.

The easiest way to install the bearing is to use the cap with extra-long bolts.
Install the hub as Ben suggests. Quick, easy, no fancy tools needed.

DaveP

Well, I'll get a chance to redo it this afternoon. The new bearing and hubs are chilling down as I type. I took the cover off and looked at it again this AM, and decided it was worth the piece of mind to just replace the bearing one last time.

I wasn't sure if the stub axle would be long enough to pull it through (which I think is actually the Porsche recommended method), but sounds like it is...just.

Thanks,

Adam

I just freeze them. Pull them out of the freezer quick and they slip right in with a "thunk". 3 seconds later they're expanded and you're good to go. You have to be fast though. They expand real quick when they hit the training arm and start to suck heat out of it.

-Ben M.

I feel you pain, I'm going to have to eat 2 brand new 0 mile rear wheel bearings since I'm changing back to the standard 4x130 bolt pattern......

Yeah, fugging sucks .
But, I've got the hubs, stubs and bearings in now

Adam we feel your pain and glad you got it fixed. I will do most anything to my 914, but the rear wheel bearings I think I would just take it to a shop to fuss with.

Are you going to drive your 914 from PA to the WCC?

I managed to remove the rear bearing by heating the arm by the calliper mounts and tapping it out undamaged. No reason to get medieval

Unless I have to push it, yes.

I was stupid. I had the arms off, I should have just taken 'em over to my friends shopped and pressed everything in when I did the Mueller bearings. Wasn't thinking and this is what I get.

You da MAN Adam...I *think* you may may be in the heat for the 'drove my 914 the fursthest to attend the WCC' award.

We need to do something special for you buddy...

with the flange still installed? I don't think you could do this since the plate is in the way....

most bearings get toasted while removing the flange, which is what I need to do on my car......

So, I had the same problem when I was assembling mine!! There was a small sharper edge on the hub that kept it from sliding in strait! I ended up softening the lip with a dremmel and it slid in like butter! Live and learn, if it looks crooked----it probably is!!

Jeff