I have searched the forum and I can't find any info on getting your car to pass the smog test?

I have a '74 with a 2.0. It passed in fall of '09 and I drove it to RRC. The only thing I have done since then is relocate the gas pump to the front. This has successfully stopped the vapor locking issue.

Does somebody out there now what I need to do to adjust the FI? It passes the idle test fine but the cruising test fails for Carbon Monoxide. You can smell it too. I think it is running pretty rich.

could be a bad or failing mps, an TPS adjustment issue, or a CHT issue.
It can also be your cold start may be stuck open, that also happens.

Check here for the tests on the TPS, CHT and MPS

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DjetParts.htm

Also, do the simple stuff first.
Tuneup, new points, plugs, cap and rotor.
Set valve adjustment
Set dwell
Set timing.
In that order...

Rich

Do you have the printout you can scan? Or tell us the numbers? This way we know how far off you are.

Damn, I'm glad I don't have to do this.

If you buy a 1976 914 here you face this same crap.
Mine is exempt from testing!

I hear you!

Standard UT BS.

Mine are registered at my "SUMMER HOME" (cough-cough) in Heber.

IIRC, there was member here who had quite an extensive thread related to smoking in AZ. I think the member was Armyowalgreens???

Eric, does the registration address not have to match the one on your driver's license?

I was smog exempt in Seattle, but here in Reno it has to be smogged every year.
I thought about using my friend's address in Gardnerville to get around it, but wasn't sure that would fly with a Reno address on my license. I thought they checked that.

I don't know how it works everywhere, but here a classic or historic registration and plate takes you out of the system... Get past smog once, get the status, then done.

It says the CO% standard is 5%, mine tested 7.36% and 10.4% last fall when I tried it the first time. I brought it to a local mechanic to install the 911 front suspension and brakes and had him look at the tune. That is why it went down.

It passed the year before and I only drove it like a thousand miles.
You can smell it, there is something wrong with the tune.

valve adjustment
dwell
timing

Fuel pressure, CHT resistance, vacuum leaks (esp fuel injector seals, MPS hose, manifold), MPS failing...

Look through the articles on Brad Anders' website (link in Towlie's first reply).

--DD

Long live Webers...

Are you running premium gas?
Stop.
run the lowest octane that will prevent detonation, at least for the duration of the test.
Higher octane == more resistance to burning.
unburned fuel == high CO.

....Also get her good & hot....before testing