I think I found my hot start problem... If I get the car good and warm, shut it off and go into a store or something, it will not restart unless I let it sit for 30 minutes or so. I initially thought I was vapor locking, but it would happen on relatively cool days (75 degrees). I decided to try something else, because it didn't "feel" like vaporlock, it felt like flooding. So, I visegripped the fuel line to the cold start injector. I haven't had the problem since.

What controls the cold start injector firing? The car isn't running rich all of the time, so I think the injector is turning off appropriately, but what causes it to fire at all?

Thanks

Had same problem with mine. Just pulled wire. I'm sure it's needed in colder climates but no problems here.

The CSV operates independently of the FI ECU. It is controlled by a thermo or thermo-time switch and the cranking circuit. The CSV is supplied +12V during cranking. If the temperature is below the setpoint (about 32 deg. F or less), the thermoswitch turns on, supplying ground to the other side of the CSV. In systems with a thermo-time switch the operation is the same, except that an internal heater in the switch limits the amount of time the CSV is on (regardless of how much the engine is cranked) to about 15 to 20 seconds to prevent flooding.

Unplug and cap the fuel line on the rail, and unplug the wire to the injector. You won't need it in TX. Then install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

The sensor can be tested for ohm resistance at ambient and at freezing to see if it is good or bad...

It could also be the actual CSV-injector that is open or leaking and dumping extra fuel whether the sensor is completing ground or not..

you could take the fuel feed off of it and by-pass it completely as mentioned...

Off topic: My sensor is failing the cold test and I need an early style one...some one sell me a single wire sensor for the CSV please!!!

brant