Well, I believe I have stripped the allen head in the cone screw on the coupler at the shift console, didnt take much I guess I am too strong . I am trying to pull the engine. Can I try and remove the cone screw at the firewall connection and then pull the engine with the shift bar still connected to the transmission? I guess I could unbot the shift console but rather not do that.

Figured I could try and drill out the cone screw or bugger with it when it is out from under the car.

I am just starting to strip down the car I bought to fix all the rust, I hope they are easier to put back together....

thanks

Maybe try an easy-out first.

Not fun, been there. I stripped a cone screw when removing my shift rod to replace the engine mounts, transmission mounts, and shift linkage bushings on my '75. Fortune was on my side that day, and I was able to remove the stripped screw with a smallish Easy Out, penetrating oil, and a bit of patience. Might be worth a try.

I sacrificed a slightly larger Allen key, and ground the hexagonal sides down until it was just slightly oversized to fit in the stripped out hole. I then preceeded to wedge it into the allen socket with nothing other than a hammer. Once it's wedged into the hole securely, take a small map gas torch and heat up the "ball cup" around the cone screw.. This will burn whatever was used to secure the cone screw up (Usually loctite, ask me how I know...) and will make removal easier...

This is the less intrusive way in my opinion, and does not require the purchasing of an easyout.

The other method I've heard of, is cleaning out the inside of the allen socket on the cone screw with carb-cleaner, and then JB-welding the allen key into the socket. (No gaurantees on this method though, I've only used the method above)

Either method should still be used with proper heat, both for ball-cup expansion around the cone screw, and the burning off of any loctite used to secure the cone screw in it's place.

Buy a small set of easyouts....you'll need them again anyway....

You'll need 'em eventually, and they're not expensive.

Looks like Elliot beat me to it. Hope you get it sorted out, Cool914.

Just leave it in place and pull the engine. You can deal with it later. The Cap'n

When buying easy outs, buy the best. Your garden variety is going to snap off then you've got another headache.

Have to agree with this as well, as I learned this lesson the hard way while working on a different project involving another car. It's a long story. The good ones are still relatively inexpensive.

It may be easier to deal with this now versus waiting till after the motor is out of the car.
Once the motor is out, and before you get it up on a stand, it will be lower to the ground than it is right now on stands.

You could pull it apart at the firewall, drop the motor, remove the front fan housing and remove the engine bar from the motor.
You would then need to pull the tranny..
Then the bar would stay with the tranny and your motor is free.
to me that all sounds to ugly.
If its really bad, I would just cut the shifterbar....but dont give up to fast.

I would suggest you might try a torx bit socket and a mapp gas torch.
hammer a torx bit in there and use the torch to get it nice and hot...then it should come out...

Between the hammering and the heat, you will loosen the threads.

Rich

Heating is your friend here (within limits). Drilling out the screw can be a problem because of the cone point. If any of the cone is remaining, the shift part will still not slide off. Drill too deep and you ruin the shift rod. It really is best to get the screw to screw out. These are very often loctite in place. Heat will loosen the loctite and must be used!

Easy trick that works. Take a torx bit that is slightly larger. The first size that won't fit in the hole. Hammer it in, and unscrew it. Its never failed for me.

Uh, Rich? You don't have to remove the shroud to get the motor mount bar off. 2 nuts, 2 washers, give it a yank, and it's outta there. At least on any 914 originally sold on the left coast ............

The Cap'n

One word.....Rust.

Do you have a MIG welder?
You can weld a nut to the cone screw and turn it out, easy. Just weld through the hole in the nut. That generates enough heat to break up almost any corrosion. I've probably saved my customers $5000.00 over the years like that on various parts of these cars.

Had the same thing happen....I did the 'hammer in a torx bit' technique and it came right out.

You can also take a 2lb. and tap the top of the allen hex that is stripped to get it to close down upon itself. Then use a MAPP torch and get it very hot before trying again.

Thanks for the suggestion fellas. I tried hammering a torx bit, didn't work for me. Picked up a stripped screw remover, and got it (I am sure it will come in handy). It must have been stripped previously when installed, didn't seem rusted or anything.
Click to view attachment

Awesome.

Amen!

I have a set of reverse twist drills (& a Millwakie reversable drill motor) for such occasions and others like them. They have gotten some use.