73- 2.0L. Flasher unit clicks any time the key is on. Left blinker works fine. Right blinker clicks very fast and blows the fuse. Any ideas as to what would cause this? Combo switch? Seems like lots of electrical problems this week.

Brake warning switch on your MC may need to be reset. That's what causes constant clicking in the relay. Pull the carpets and check the pedal cluster for fluid.

reread your post; sounds like an open circuit on the right side could be the problem as well. If it is indeed "clicking" check the relay and the master cylinder reset switch though.

By relay, if you mean the flasher unit, I've replaced it with a known good one (from my car).

I mean the round relay with the four posts. And... it's probably not the relay if it's clicking. It's probably the brake warning switch on the Master Cylinder. What I meant by "relay" is; If you hear the relay clicking (you mentioned "clicks all the time") then it could very well be that switch on the master cylinder. That is the symptom (constant clicking) of the brake warning switch on the master cylinder. Your post also indicates trouble when you turn on the right turn signal. All of these things route through the turn signal relay. It could be an open circuit on the right turn signal causing the relay to click. It probably "isn't" the relay itself but... it's easy enough to check.

That relay controls:

The E-Brake light
Hazzards
Low Brake Pressure Warning (how's your fluid?)
and your Turn Signals

When the key is turned on and the flasher relay begins clicking, does the big red light on the top of the combo gauge flash? If it does, then either the master cylinder brake warning switch (on the master cylinder) or the parking brake switch is activated. If the big red light does not flash with the clicking relay, then the problem is usually a defective flasher relay. This is likely a separate problem than the high speed blinker.

The right side high speed blinker is likely caused by one of the BK/GR wires being shorted, usually in the connections up under the front fender.

Phil

I think Phils on to it...

The high speed flashing usually alerts you to a blown bulb (you've checked that right...?). If you don't have a brake warning light or a blown bulb or your fluid is normal and the brakes feel good then go looking for that short.

BTW... the reason I agree with Phil is a blown bulb wouldn't blow a fuse.

It could be a short in the e-brake light switch or once I had a short in a 74 blinker switch that shorted back through to the emergency flasher relay, it was the wierdest thing I ever saw!

Jeff

Eric,Ok, now we're getting there. Here's what the car was doing when he drove it in this morning. Hazard light was blowing its fuse when switch was pulled. No blinker, no brake lights, no tach, and no gas gauge. #9 fuse was not broke, and I cleaned the contacts and put the fuse back in. Nothing. Changed the fuse anyway and everything worked again, cept now we have the afore mentioned problem. Does indeed sound like the right side of the the blinker system. Seems like this should be unrelated to the flasher unit though. Oh, the flasher is rectangular.

it is OK for the brake light to flash (at blinker speed) as long as the engine doesn't run ...

if it continues to blink with the engine running, it's usually the MC reset switch. which could mean he's running out of brake-fluid!
did you check and see if he still has the handbrake on?

blowing a fuse when turning the right blinker on should NOT affect the blinking brake light as it seems even a short in that blinker circuit would not route back to the relay when you're NOT using the blinker.

Andy

The "big red light" doesn't come on unless there's a cop behind me.

Hand brake light works as its designed. It does not enter into the equation.

No, a blown bulb will not cause a fuse to blow. The bulb is a fuse. It's filaments are just made of a material designed not to burn out at a certain vlotage.

Curt, I had the exact same problem, right down to the blowing fuse symptom. For me, it was an open circuit caused by a broken wire inside the rubber boot where the wiring harness comes out of the fire wall down by where the shifter linkage is.

If all else fails, you might want to try some continuity testing on the tail light related wires, to see if you have an open circuit. Somehow that created the exact same scenario for me that you have described.

Sounds like you may have your answer... now to find it

Good luck.