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texag09
I have the casting number of 021.101.371 Q

From the best I can tell these are 914 1.7L heads, they have been converted to Hydro lifters.

Is that right?

Are these a good casting to run?

Strengths and weaknesses?

What type of Cam for these and Webbers?

Whats the deal with the Hydro lifters these were solid lifter heads correct?


Give me all your info need to learn.


Thanks in advance.
type47
My first thought was that there is no connection between heads and lifters; correct me if I'm wrong. If they are 1.7 heads, they will have 4 studs for mounting the intake runners. Measure valve size but I don't know right off hand the size of 1.7 valves. Check the PET for part number (see my signature for link to PET).
rhcb914
1.7 heads. Some engine builders prefer the Q heads to start with as they are good castings with additional material in the right areas. Make sure you check them for cracks as welding up a used cracked set of heads can get very pricey.


Hydro lifters has nothing to do with the heads.

As for the cam and webers what are you looking to build? What displacement? What stroke? What exhaust? What are your driving styles? Tell us more about your plans and we can help guide you.

Are you building this yourself or working with an engine builder?

There are tons of engine build threads that are very good and provide lots of info...

Search is your friend biggrin.gif
rhcb914
Here are some good links to get you started with the type 4 enigne

http://www.tunacan.net/t4/

One of the most detailed engine builds!
http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/index.htm


I'll add some more as I find them.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/
go to the type4rum
texag09
Should of been more specific, its a supper low mile rebuild but was a pieced together by the PO, It is a 1.7L block with 2.0l Jugs and Pistons. It was built to run fuel injection.

My plan was to look at the heads do a little head work, and re-cam to a carb freiendly cam, to say the least from the running test i did on it there were flatspots.

The jugs look like they might have 1k miles on them maybe since the POs rebuild. Heads are supper clean, new oil cooler, and overall a good job just looking to maybe spend a few 100 dollar bills to upgrade heads and cam to a good driving carb friendly car. Will be a street car mainly.
r_towle
The ports on the 1.7 heads are very restrictive.
It may be worth the time and money to find a used set of 2.0 liter heads and continue from that point with your build.

To get 94mm jugs into those 1.7 heads, they have been machined to accept the jug...the 1.7 is a smaller cylinder register in the head.

Some work has been done, or maybe not if the jugs are not 94mm.

If you have 94 or 96mm slipin pistons and cylinders, I would caution you that the cylinder walls are to thin and you may invest alot of money into this and still have head leakage.

Post a few pics of the heads and cylinders so we can help you out.

Rich
dstar
Headflow Masters in Cali can do a 42X36 valves and cleanup on them
for around 8 Franklins.

AFA *restrictive*, it all depends on your engine's capacity, RPM range
and driving style. I would ONLY spend the wonga and use a set of 2.0L
heads for all out racing.

1.7 Q heads with FI rocks, as it is all about velocity and retaining the gas in the air!
They also have the meat left in them to put a proper shape to maintain the fuel mixture,
IF you know what you are doing...
wink.gif

Smokey Yunick preached port velocity and maintaining homogenous mixture. YES, he is
old school but his principles are what the car companies used to produce their newest
designs(back then) with the most power and efficiency.

Here is a GREAT writeup and discussion on the 1.7 Q heads:
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=63224

I think Len is the best, most experienced T4 head guy around!
smile.gif

Enjoy, it's 6 pages long and a LOT of info! That forums has pics of the different heads cut
apart at the ports, showing both intake and exhaust tracts.

Don
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