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skota
Did a little searching and couldnt find what I was looking for. Second gear is whining on acceleration. I havent changed the transmission fluid yet and it's on the list of things to do.

Update below.


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Cap'n Krusty
The synchronizer assembly has nothing to do with any whining noise in the gearbox, nor does the age of the oil, as it doesn't wear out like engine oil. You can also rule out any noise from the second gear needle bearing, as it's out of the picture while the gear is engaged. Most likely source of the sound is one of the 2 intermediate plate bearings. Another possibility is damage to the gear itself, usually a result of running low on gear oil. Is the noise there in first gear, too?

The Cap'n
skota
no only second. thanks Cap'n
Richard Casto
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 28 2011, 10:43 AM) *

The synchronizer assembly has nothing to do with any whining noise in the gearbox, nor does the age of the oil, as it doesn't wear out like engine oil. You can also rule out any noise from the second gear needle bearing, as it's out of the picture while the gear is engaged. Most likely source of the sound is one of the 2 intermediate plate bearings. Another possibility is damage to the gear itself, usually a result of running low on gear oil. Is the noise there in first gear, too?

The Cap'n

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Tend to agree here regarding the bearings and if you feel this is ONLY happening in second gear then there may be damage to the teeth of the gear set for second. How loud is it? Are you sure road noise, is not masking it in higher gears?

Also make sure you really are hearing something from the transmission and it's not something else. I think a few months back we had someone diagnosing what they thought was a transmission problem and I think it turned out to be something loose in the exhaust.

Also verify you have fluid ASAP.

Richard
skota

Tend to agree here regarding the bearings and if you feel this is ONLY happening in second gear then there may be damage to the teeth of the gear set for second. How loud is it? Are you sure road noise, is not masking it in higher gears?

Also make sure you really are hearing something from the transmission and it's not something else. I think a few months back we had someone diagnosing what they thought was a transmission problem and I think it turned out to be something loose in the exhaust.

Also verify you have fluid ASAP.

Richard

thanks Richard,
how loud is it? not obnoxious, just noticable. I'm pretty sure it's not doing it in any other gear but I'll make sure to pay closer attention, fluid will be checked before next drive.
Richard Casto
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PS: Love the color of your car!
914Mike
QUOTE(skota @ Apr 28 2011, 07:27 AM) *
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Mmm, L96B! drooley.gif I bet you have the board color set to that too. I do.
skota
thanks, I love the color too. not sure what you mean by the board color though idea.gif
Richard Casto
QUOTE(skota @ Apr 28 2011, 11:33 AM) *

thanks, I love the color too. not sure what you mean by the board color though idea.gif

Lower left at the bottom has a drop down in which you can select a "skin" for the forum. They are generally different 914 colors including L96B.

Richard
skota
QUOTE(Richard Casto @ Apr 28 2011, 03:18 PM) *

QUOTE(skota @ Apr 28 2011, 11:33 AM) *

thanks, I love the color too. not sure what you mean by the board color though idea.gif

Lower left at the bottom has a drop down in which you can select a "skin" for the forum. They are generally different 914 colors including L96B.

Richard


nice, it is now biggrin.gif
Dr Evil
2nd gear whine is typical of lower intermediate plate bearing failure. This is often the result of low/dirty oil.

The easy/hopeful things have already been mentioned. I hope it is an easy fix.
skota
well it seems like I have some experts here, thanks guys.

drained the little bit of oil that was left and re-filled it. I was so happy to take it for a drive and have no noise and it felt really smooth.

then I got home, took a look underneath and it was leaking from the front of the transmission. I'm fairly certain I have it narrowed down to the main shaft seal. so now I have a couple more questions.

First, pretty sure this is the part I need but if you have any suggestions I'd appreciate it?

113-311-113B-M30
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._TRANSM_pg2.htm

second, My repair manual says I need to pull the engine in order to remove the transmission. Is that really necessary? I was thinking I could remove it while supported by a jack.

thanks again guys,
Steve
Richard Casto
Hopefully running low on oil didn't do too much damage. As you say you need to fix the leak. "113-311-113B-M30" is the right seal. Once transmission is out, you can remove/replace without cracking open the transmission. You can remove the transmission without removing the engine.

It's easier if you have two floor jacks (one for engine and one for transmission). Quick version of the procedure is as follows...

1. Jack up car. Make sure car is high enough to slide transmission out when it is on a floor or transmission jack.

2. Support transmission with first jack (in middle of transmission, but closer to differential).

3. Disconnect the following from the transmission...
* Shift linkage
* Axles (unbolt from output flange and wire up to hold them out of the way.
* Unplug reverse switch
* Wiring for starter
* Speedo cable
* Clutch cable
* Ground strap (easy to forget)

That leaves the transmission bolted to the engine and to the car with nothing else attached to it.

4. Go ahead and remove the muffler (you can leave the pipes/heat exchangers in place). You need to do this as you will be pulling the transmission back before going down.

5. Making sure weight is on jack, remove the four nuts/bolts the hold the two transmission mounts to the body. Leave mounts attached to the transmission. You may need to now lower the jack on the transmission just an inch or so. The engine/transmission will pivot on front mounts. Not sure if you need to remove anything such as air box on engine to allow this amount of small rotation.

6. Put second jack under engine (near transmission). Ensure weight of engine/transmission is now on that jack, but also ensure jack on transmission can support transmission as well.

7. Remove the four nuts that hold transmission to engine. For a Type IV, the bottom two are studs in the engine case and the top two are bolts. The top two are the hard ones, particularly the side that has the starter.

8. Once removed one jack will be holding up the engine and the other will be holding up the transmission. Roll the transmission jack backwards and this will extract the input shaft from the clutch. The transmission should also slide on the two studs in the engine case. Try to do this as smoothly as possible.

9. Once everything is clear lower transmission jack and roll transmission out from under the car.

10. As they say in the manual, "Installation is the reverse!" wink.gif

Extra items you will need...

* Check the condition of your CV bolts. If the bolts (particularly the socket heads) are questionable at all, buy new ones. In fact it's not a bad idea to have a few of these around just in case.
* Get new Schnorr washers for the CV bolts.
* Get new conical screws for the shift linkage.
* Get new CV gaskets for the CV to output flange joint.

PM or Email me if you have any questions. If anyone else reads this and I finds a typo, error or has other tips to add, please correct me.

Richard
skota
copy, paste, print.

that's what I figured, thanks Richard! pray.gif
Dr Evil
What Richard said. I never remove the engine with trans unless there is a reason to do so smile.gif
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