I still trying to figure out why my L-jet isn't running right, I've fould some things that I'm sure need attention, Here is the 1st
This is a picture of a parts that I've yet to identify, I can't find a picture of it in my Haynes manual, it has one loose end that looks like it should be connected to something

Levi, it looks like a decel valve to me.

This looks like a vapor canister, it has an opening like is circled on both ends
Do they need to be connected to something?

Yes, I agree. Deceleration valve.

The big hoses go to the intake, one on each side of the throttle body. One side connects to a "Y" fitting near the air filter, one side connects to the intake plenum. The small line is supposed to go to an engine vacuum source. Its purpose is to create a temporary air flow around the closed throttle plate, which will cause the RPMs to drop more slowly than would happen with just the throttle plate. As a result, the engine creates fewer polutants during deceleration.

You can temporarily remove it from the system by plugging the places where it connects to the intake. Once you have everything else sorted out, you can put it back into the system...or not.

Joe

Yep, do what Joe stated. I do have a line connected to my canister where you have it circled. Mine runs alongside the fuel lines below the right engine shelf. I will trace it tomorrow for you if you need me too.

Joe, how is Maine doing. I grew up in Yarmouth and have tons of family all over the state. My brother is a PA in Waterville. I love that state and miss it. Will be going back in Sept for vacation. I can't wait for the much needed vacation

The connection on the charcoal canister connects a hose to the gas tank expansion chamber.

Levi, I want the original of your avatar. Hell, I want the whole series!!

Do both sides connect to the same place? because there is another connection like that on the other end of the canister.

That makes me wonder if thats why I can hear the gas tank pop just after I start the car and again a few minutes after I shut it off.

looks like a mice nest to me?

what year is this car? all the ones i have seen, the charcoal canister is in the front trunk on top of the gas tank ...

Andy

oops sorry, I knew so I thought every one would..

Its my 74 1.8, I'm surprised that its back there to, I'm trying to chase down any vacuum leaks,

Yup your correct about the mice, there is some mouse sign on the top of the engine, no mice tho...

The 74's and up had the vapor canister moved to the rear as shown. The small barb connects to the small vapor line that comes from the tank via a small x4MM nylon tube through the center tunnel with the fuel lines. The large fitting on this side goes to the barb on the fan housing, the one on the other side goes to the air cleaner.

I would be VERY concerned about the mousey thing. Their favorite place is "under" the cooling tin. I don't have any TIV's lying around so I don't know how much tin you can remove with the engine in the car but... I'd start unscrewing little screws.

My 3.0 had a set of broken rings when I bought it. Upon tear down we found that Mickey and Minnie were romping around under the cooling tin and made a happy home over those cylinders causing them to overheat. ANY sign of mice in the engine compartment is not a good thing.

E.

P.S. I've never seen the canister there either. My 74 had it up front...

Mickey was long gone when I bought the car, but like usual he didn't clean up his mess when he moved out..

I found a picture of the component latout for the L-Jet system in my Haynes manual, It shows what we thought to be the decel valve, to actually be the Pressure Regulator, now I just have to find were the small connection connects.

Levi, I've never even seen an L-jet system. Is that the fuel pressure regulator? Those look like vacuum lines instead of fuel lines. That part "looks" identical to the d-jet decel valve. Interesting.

It probably is the decel valve, thats the concenses anyway, I was looking in the Haynes and it shows that valve in that exact spot and calls it the "Pressure Regulator" so your saying if its the PR it should have fuel going to it??

Like I said, I only know the d-jet, but the only pressure we have to regulate is the fuel. Can't imagine it any diff in the L

Levi, some of those hoses look very old and frayed. If ya got enough length, ya might want to trim those ends a little, and stop some vacuum leaks. Could make the car run better.

The L-jet will not run right if there is the slightest vacuum leak. Best to replace all the vacuum lines and gasket at the oil filler, including the lid. The PP hose diagram will tell you where everything goes.

Yup done that, cut ends, sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum lines, replaced cork gasket & o-ring at filler, sill runs like shit, it won't idle, and now it cuts out all threw the rpm range, which it didn't do before I started messing with it.

Levi,

The thing in your picture is the DECEL VALVE for sure. The pressure regulator has a similar shape, but is on the other side, UNDER the air cleaner box, and has 2 FUEL lines and one vacuum line.

415PB,

Maine is doing fine. Pine Trees are still the state weed, and May is still that fine spring month when the weather is beautiful, and the threat of black flies keeps the summer population at bay, so I can still drive fast on the backroads :-)
What a PA?

Joe

check yer grounds ...

sounds like you have some loose wires. there's a bunch that ground to the case under the air-cleaner ...

Andy

My old 1.8 had the 1.7-style-looking Decel Valve, which is exactly what you have there. It also had the rear-mounted charcoal cannister, back in the engine bay. My 74 2.0, made the same month and within 2000 VIN numbers of the 1.8, has the front-mounted charcoal cannister.

1.8s hate vacuum leaks, even more than 1.7s or 2.0s do.

--DD

Dave Thanks for ringin in!!

I found the pressure valve under the air cleaner, I pulled the air cleaner and intake air sensor off, then checked the intake air sensor per Haynes, it tested within spec, it still bothers me that if the engine dies the fuel pump keeps running.


BTW, I removed the decel valve and plugged the hoses.

Have you pulled the motor to check under the tin? I bought my car from a guy who had done an engine swap, and apparently he never pulled the tin, to clean things up first, so, after I bought the car, and went to rebuild the heads, I discovered the oil cooler and cooling fins on the cylinders were completely impacted with leaves, and pine needles. So, I got to rebuild my first motor, one week after purchasing the car. By the way, if you are anxious for seat time, or need help yanking your motor or something, e-mail me, I live just south of spokane, and am always interested in helping out fellow teeners!

Cool,
I sent you and e-mail.

My relay panel only had 2 relays in it and only one fuse, the relays that were missing ( according to the Haynes manual) were the FI power supply relay and fuel delivery pump relay.

This puzzels me because without these 2 relays the car shouldn't have run at all, correct??? but it did

Actually on the L-Jet we only use one relay and only one fuse. The top fuse Does nothing I can tell. The botton fuse does the Power supply. (Though I have both fuses in there "blue ones"). We do not use the reg board relay for the fuel pump. We have the double relay that is hanging on the side of the battery tray. I am sure we only need relay #74 for the power suply. The rest are for Rear Defog, Heating Fan (Which I use, but some do not)

If your fuel pump does not shut off when the engine dies it is hot wiired somehow. A bad thing I can tell you. I bet its as simple as the fuel pump rod inside the AFM is bent to make it run all of the tiime. When I got my car it waslike that becase the PO did not take the time to find a broken wire that makes the pump work while cranking. So the easy solution was to bend the rod. Actually once I found the problem the fixing of the wire was easiest.

Also you should have a yellow wire coming from the loom (Wire harness) near the reg panel with the bottom 12 connectors. This wire need to attach over to the left on the area with the four prongs sticking up. It goes to prong #II. I believe that is the wire that heats up the Fuel pump on cranking, as well as cold start valve (Which I ditched a long time ago.)

I am not posotive on all of this. Just my memory from years ago working on mine. I will chech the factory manuals with my notes.

EDIT: Yes I looked it up. The key sends voltage to the Reg board and then to the starter. The extra yellow wire then sends it to the Double relay during cranking only. Where my wire was broken was the return power to fuel pump the black and red wire at reg board T12/12. It was broken at the T12 connector.

Christopher,
Thanks for the reply, thats good info.

Is this the cold start Valve, and if it is what proceedure did you use to remove it.

I did it in three steps.

1) Take the pug from the end of the connection off.
2) I got a High Pressure Fuel line coupler. (You could also just get a longer High pressure fule line altogether I guess and replace the two lines with one.) I undid the two fule lines at the Cold Start Valve and connected them together with the coupler. This totally bypassed the Cold Start vale in case it leaked fuel.
3) Since my Cold start valve was toast anywas and leaking, I took it off and grinded the end smooth (the end Part that attaches to and into the plenum) . Then I created a gasket that covered the hole, then put the Cold Start Valve back on. Thus plugging the hole from any air or anything that could get in and cause vacuum leaks.

Now I live in the desert where its dry and the average temps are 95 plus. In the winter it barely gets down to freezing ever. and I have never had a problem with starting.

Problem solved... Cool!

I might try just unpluging it to see if its adding to the engine loading up at startup