I hope the solenoid that releases the trunk lid didn't take a dump today. I don't know if the button has a fuse that maybe could have blown or what?

Unless that gets functional again, I'm wondering how I'm going to get the trunk open??

I am about to install one and I am thinking of potting a small emergency hole to open it in case of failure. I am thinking of a holee the size of a screw driver, this way i can use a small screw driver to open it. i just don't know what to use to make the hole yet,
If yoy make a small hole right in the middle of the s, That should do it.

When I put mine in, I drilled a small hole under the release and ran a stainless steel wire from the release, thru the hole, with a loop that hides behind the bumper. If someting fails, I can hook it and manualy and open the trunk. Totally geto, but I'm chicken.

Maybe I'll have my electrician take a look at the button to release it and see if anything is up with that first before I start to freak. It was working fine before.

My trunk catch is held by allen head screws. At one point my key refused to disconnect the locking mechanism. Took a metal rod about 3' or so and welded the appropriate size allen wrench onto it, popped the engine lid and without a lot of difficulty was able to unscrew the latch. I just used visegrips to twist the rod. Not really that difficult.

keith

The solenoid is a bad solution. A solenoid has a lot of power when it is nearly closed but is a little weak with the plunger out some distance. I never had good luck with mine. I had a stud that I connected a wire to which ran through a hole in the trunk. This was operated it from behind the bumper (careful of the hot muffler). I recently removed the solenoid and my wire pulls directly on the latch. This works much better.

I presume you are talking about getting access from the front edge of the trunk lid when you open the engine lid grille? I looked at that, but it is sealed off to where I can't see inside.

I would imagine removing the bolts to where it hinges in the engine bay would prove to be asking for trouble and maybe wouldn't solve anything either?

Seems like there were 2 nuts that hold on that reflective Porsche emblem in between the tail lights. If I could maybe get that off, I'm wondering if that in itself would help?

I'll have my electician look at the release button itself. Maybe it's not even the solenoid that is the problem. He's the type of person that likes to figure out electrical problems, so that might be a good place to start.

The release button is doing it's job as it checked out with the test light, and so the problem must be mechanical. I pushed out the white latch cups, but can't even begin to see where I would need to be, to produce any merit.
What would possibly happen if I were to take the two bolts on the front of the hinge that mount on the side wall of the engine bay loose, or would that screw up the torsion spring?

If the solenoid is getting current, press down on the trunk when the solenoid is being activated. Be sure to press on the rounded surface or you could make a dent in the lid. I had so much trouble with mine, I made my switch a SPST instead of a momentary. This allowed me to turn on the solenoid and exit the car. I would then press on the trunk lid. You may need to use a friend to hold the button down. If nothing works about the only access is through the plastic cups where the top latches fit when the top is in the trunk. Where is your top?

The top is on the roof. I can't get my head jabbed in far enogh to even begin to see any bolts and my paws aren't quite small enough to get through the holes to feel for the bolts.

Is taking the two bolts off on the front of the hinge a bad idea?

I just installed mine today and used a small hot screw driver to make a hole in the middle of the "S" I then inserted a wire hanger in that hole to release it. all you need is to push the mechanism and it is released. It works great, I don't have to worry about future failure of the solenoid.

I'm dragging my heels on putting a hole in that $400.00 plus reflector.
I'm too afraid to take the bolts off that hinge the front as I have no idea what the torsion bar will do or if I can get it back in place.

It's not to bad, will post a picture soon for you.

Maybe if I take that radiator gizmo out of the way I can see in there to the bolts that mount the front of the lid. The other side is worse with the intercooler.

Click to view attachment

My electrician thought maybe a person could slide something under the edge of the lid to release it, but I don't think that would work with this style of latch?

Wash your car try it agian, have someone apply pressure on the trunk while you stab the red button with the engine revving (more current)
If it opens? emediateley, take off and throw away solenoid and drill a hole fore a wire, and or buy the cable remote system.

I wonder since there is a bit of play up and down, would it be a crazy idea to whack the top part of the latch off horizontally with a saws all?
I'll try the release button again also.
I could stick a small mirror in the latch cup hole and maybe also could see where those hinge bolts are.
I'll have to round someone up to check the latch again.

here is a pic, and mine is brand new off the box

I suppose a person could put one of those plugs that go in the black roll bar pad in the cab in that hole if it would fit to help conceal it?

yes I have a few of them just the right side to conceal it

I have a solenoid as well - and put a fail safe manual release as well. As posted above - I drilled a very small hole through my carpet, pad, and trunk floor - threaded a stainless steel wire behind the rear valence. It is attached to the top arm of the solenoid. Works like a charm, and no hole through the PORKY rear panel - totally stealth (except that everyone one in cyberworld now knows and my antique - car gouging safety hazard jack is now in jeopardy

Is it the wrong approach to even think of loosening the bolts on the sides of the engine bay that mount the front part of the hinge that have the torsion bar on it? I don't know if it would cause more problems than what it would solve as far as getting more clearance to get into the trunk. The torsin bar looks like it could be a real bummer.