I am trying to repair non-working brake lights.

This morning, I opened the pedal board, and inspected the switch.

It looksto be in good shape.

I cleaned some sticky stuff off the "washer" that contacts the switch, and now the brake lights work about 1 out of 3 times that I push the pedal.

Can the switch or anything around it be adjusted?

It looks like the "washer" moves away from the switch arm when the brake pedal is depressed, and this is supposed to activate the lights.

Is it possible to lubricate the switch? I am wondering if the switch is somehow sticking, and not activating properly. (not releasing when the "washer" moves away??)

I am really stumped, and my next step was going to be to just buy a new repalcement switch.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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'76 Malaga Red

does the arm follow the washer? i had to take mine out, and reform the arm which someone (PO) had bent so that it did not engage the washer at all. if you cleaned some stuff off of the washer, perhaps some stuff is inhibiting the switch.

i actually found the haynes manual useful in figuring out how this worked. their adjustment directions work. the switch is adjustable for how much travel it takes to complete/break the circuit.

rambling, but i hope it helps. it seems replacement switiches are really expensive.

A loose connection, or maybe a gummed up switch.

At this point, some spray electrical cleaner couldn't hurt. Spray the switch liberally, work the switch to try and get it good and clean. Make sure it's dry before you hook it back up.

The switches are available, are about 50 bucks. Someone might have a used one in their stash, you could post a wanted ad.

hope this helps,
-Rusty

I would use spray electrical contact cleaner to completly clean the switch and the connections.

You might try some fine grit sandpaper to clean the terminals. That area around the ped cluster is horrible for rust. Any water that gets into the car seems to pond there. As it evaporates the water vapor will cling to everything else.

While you're in there, lube up the pivot points on the pedal cluster: throttle, clutch and brakes. Also hit the return springs with oil.

Test the switch with a volt/ohm meter first.If the switch now fails or is intermittent, replace.

BTW, there is a section on pg 129 sec #30 on
" Brake light switch-removal, installation and adjustment " of Haynes manual.

I knew it was the brake light switch. Voice of experience.

Is the arm supposed to stay in contact with the washer?

Mine is in contact when the pedal is released.

When the pedal is depressed, the arm moves very slightly, but does not stay with the washer.

A replacement switch is around $60.

Thanks

if i recall, the pedal movement allows the switch to move, closing the circuit. there is an adjustment screw by which you can determine how far it must move before closure of the circuit occurs. it need not follow the washer the full length of travel. refer to the haynes manual mentioned earlier, as it's instructions are pretty accurate in this area.

Hi Boston914

I had the same problem w/mine last weekend. Didn't know why people were traveling so far behind me on the southeast expway.

The adjuster screw is actually one of the contacts. Take the switch out, loosen the jam nut on the adjuster (just a little so you don't loose the setting) then back out the adjuster. Clean the tip w/some sand paper. You can also slide a small file in the slot on the side of the switch for the arm that contacts the pedal ring and clean that contact up a bit. Also clean up the 2 spade connectors off the switch. Test the switch with an ohm meter to make sure it works correctly.

Hope this helps.......saved me $60 bucks!

-Rob

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