Had not tried my hand at car painting since the 60s. Went to paint store and was "informed with snickers" that it was way not cool to use the old one part painting. Sent out the door with Qt of base coat in orginial color and Qt of clear coat. Respective reducers/hardners etc. Disassemble the 74 914 and stripped old paint, primed and wet sanded. Mind you this being done in my garage (neighbors not too happy) so I did part by part; doors, hoods, body. Did the same with the base coat. Had been told by paint store people to wait 10-15 minutes between coats. Wow..Put on 6 coats and looked good. This over a several day period. Took the engine top up to show off to the paint guys. Was then informed that I was such a dummy. Didn't I know that you are not to take over 24 hours for the WHOLE process??? BC/CC won't adhere properly if not done as so. Sent out the door with mucho laughing by employees and other customers. I can't be the only one in the whole wide world to make this mistake, can I? HELP HELP. Ideas??

All I can say is, I would not shop anyplace that treated me like that. As big as Texas is there must be a store that will help you. I have used single stage urethanes and laqer both in the last 5 years. Sounds to me like you need a new paint store.

Hard to understand your issue..


Did you paint the car with base coat, wait 7 days and paint with clear? Or have you not painted the clear yet? Or did you spray a coat, wait a day spray another coat ect?
Its hard to understand what you did from your post.

You could always sand the base coat down smooth (color sand to 400 grit), throw one more layer of base down and then clear over it?


PS, Forget them about BC/CC.. They should have given you single stage if you wanted it.

Is it painted? Does it look good? Leave it. Drive the car for a while and when the paint starts acting up then redo it and call it a lesson learned

I have painted the base coat over a 7 day + period and was preparing for the clear coat. Now at a stand still trying to decide if to say the the hell with it and put on clear coat or what?

how is this for old school. valspar tractor enamel, $27.00 a gallon.


two coats from can, three that have been reduced about 15% with naphta. there is more wet sanding to be done but the finish comes out decently.

FIRST THING - go back to the paint store, ask for the manager/owner & .....
.... then tell him/them that they just themselves for not only your business, but everyone nearby from 914world & that you know in the collector car hobby due to poor treatment & incomplete info.

Next, find a local Porsche or other classics cars resto shop of pro's, & just ask for some of the owner's time to chat about your resto which you're doing yourself cuz you want the satisfaction (you'll be surprised how helpful the pros can be (they know that either you &/or your other car buddies will eventually do business with them). Then ask them about what you did, what they recco, and a new pro paint supply that they can recco.

I can't speak as to whether the 24 hour rule applies to what you did & the paints/supplies which they sold you. but just about every shop of which I know does not paint everything multiple coats within 24 hours, plus they usually paint all pieces together in the same paint color mix batches so the panels match. They also paint in old school lacquers, new school urethanes, etc., etc. - single & multi-stage.

The only place AFAIK where you're limited on using old school lacquers, acrylics, etc. in solvent based paints, is in the "Peoples' Republic of Kalifornia" where the air quality districts & environmental agencies have essentially switched all shops to water based paints - except for very small batches/jobs of small quantity per month (fortunately a 914 is a small job). However, I think that private owners aren't under the rules, but they may need someone out of state to obtain the paints (or recieve shipment), and then get it to them in CA for use.

AFAIK Texas doesn't have those restrictions (yet).

IMHO you're probably okay on how you did it, but get with a pro painter to make sure, & anything they recco you do to rectify any problems in how you shot the car.

My 2 cents, as a non-pro-painter, but one who's been checking these issues for my own resto.

Thanks for you insight. A "pro" suggested that I make an overall light sanding and apply a quick base coat. Then follow the 24 hour rule. No big deal it seems.

What did the product data sheets for the BC and CC recommend?

Damnfiknow, Just FYI, Im no pro (Check the progress thread in my signature, I am learning while I go).. Thats just what "I" would do.

I would also find a classic restorer to talk to like Tom said.. They always like BS'ing..

When its said and done, go back, show them your work, and give them a pack of good beer.

I'm no paint guy, but I wager you're fine. Paint evaps for weeks, shoot months before it cures.

If you painted a car in your garage on the cheap, you're not going for show quality anyway.

Leave it be, it'll last much longer than the cost of re-painting right now.

Re-assemble and enjoy the car.

Oh yeah, show us some pictures!

follow the data sheets
go to the shop and get some
or they are probably available online for which ever product you purchased.

follow the data sheets

If you exceed the rated 'wet on wet' time of the paint/ primer you're using, you have to scuff it before you put on the next coat. Scuff it and I would think you'd have no problems.

You know, the working on this '74 (2 years and still going) is what is fun. I've taken it almost completly apart (Dr Evil trans rebuild from video being the most satisfying) and its been a great retired guys project. And, its all been on the cheap in my garage with learning experiences along the way. I had a new 914 in the '70s and it was fun. But, this will sound sacrareligious, a 2001 Hyundai Accent 2 door with 5 speed I recently bought for under 2K to save gas has turned out to be a blast to drive. And there is a webpage for Hyundai nuts that, though not nearly as good as 914 World, indicates that the Accent is pretty popular. So long story short, I'm going to blow on the clear coat and to heck with all the purests.

Honestly I would just resand it with 400-600 shoot another coat or 2, let it flash until the recommended time to apply clear and shoot it. It sounds like your not in any trouble and you should be fine. What paint brand are you using?

That would probably work, however my PPG DBC basecoat tech sheet says to scuff and basecoat again if longer than 24hrs.

Andys

I'm using PPG and intend to do just what you are saying.

Wash it first with a very mild soap, then scuff it really good and put the clear on. If you want, wet sand it with 600, that will get any trash out and make it lay flatter. IF it is a metallic you can't sand it without re-shooting the base color, but a solid is fine. FWIW a car should be completely painted inculding a sealer coat if needed in about 3 hours max start to finish.

Aaaaamen, brother ben errr Scotty. It probably needs the nibs and orange peel lightly sanded anyway if it wasn't done in a booth especially if it really has 6? coats of base color already on it.

Oh yeah I'm pretty sure scotty means scuffing with red scotchbrite, but I use 600 and a rubber pad to get the highspots down without removing too much surrounding paint so it doesn't go through the coats if possible.

Jim: Let me know if you need any grunt work help. Not a painter, but I can sand/scuff.

I have never liked using Scothbrite for any pre-painting activity. Those little hairs get everywhere and some are sure to end up in the paint no matter how well you prep. At least that's what I've experienced.

Andys