PBC914
May 8 2011, 05:22 PM
Who needs a set screw (and it's missing of course) when the shift rod is rusted to the head shift rod that holds the set screw by the transmission?
Any suggestions how to get the shift rod out? I've been using penetrating oil for 3 days and trying to tap it out, no go so far and added some heat with no success. I didin't want to heat it too far, or the whole car would burst into flames with all of the great on the transmission.
VaccaRabite
May 8 2011, 06:55 PM
put a vise grip on the base, and hit is with a hammer to pop it off.
Zach
PBC914
May 8 2011, 07:49 PM
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ May 8 2011, 07:55 PM)
put a vise grip on the base, and hit is with a hammer to pop it off.
Zach
Thanks Zach, have attempted this with no results. I'll continue to try however and add more penetrating oil.
TheCabinetmaker
May 9 2011, 07:18 AM
Please excuse me, but I'm confused. Which rod is that you are trying to remove? The one inside the tunnell, or the rear shift rod that goes from the firewall to the trans? Or the shifter itself?
VaccaRabite
May 9 2011, 07:35 AM
I think he is talking about the rod between the transmission and the firewall.
The set screw he is talking about my have been the cone screw.
Zach
TheCabinetmaker
May 9 2011, 07:52 AM
So its the coupling at the trans console that is frozen?
VaccaRabite
May 9 2011, 08:09 AM
Thats my guess.
Zach
PBC914
May 9 2011, 08:38 AM
It is the end of the shift rod at the transmission case. There is a cone screw there and it makes a right angle with the piece that holds the bushing that connects to the transmission.
TheCabinetmaker
May 9 2011, 08:53 AM
Maybe use a pair of vise grips on the shift rod in front of the console where it goes thru the hole, so you can use a large drift punch to drive the coupler towards the rear. Are you sure the cone screw is not broke off inside the threaded hole, or maybe someone used a regular allen set screw?
Bartlett 914
May 9 2011, 09:19 AM
I would be careful about too much hammering. You can break the aluminum console. Drain the oil and remove the shift console and you can work it on the bench. Use heat.
TheCabinetmaker
May 9 2011, 09:34 AM
That was my next suggestion, if all else fails. Mark, your absolutely right about the console
jsayre914
May 9 2011, 09:48 AM
Why were you removing it anyway
if you are attempting a quick engine repair, I just uncouple the connection at the firewall and leave the bar connected to the whole thing. Engine comes out fine and goes right back in with no problem.
if that helps
PBC914
May 9 2011, 10:37 AM
QUOTE(jsayre914 @ May 9 2011, 10:48 AM)
Why were you removing it anyway
if you are attempting a quick engine repair, I just uncouple the connection at the firewall and leave the bar connected to the whole thing. Engine comes out fine and goes right back in with no problem.
if that helps
Thanks-I am dropping the engine to do some major cleanup and replace missing parts, etc. Presently not running so I was following the Pelican Parts engine drop procedure. I'll give this a shot!
TheCabinetmaker
May 9 2011, 10:44 AM
Depending on what your doing, you may want to remove it first. It will be a major pain if you have to remove it anyway to get to the things you need to, when the engine is sitting on the ground or a 4 wheel dolly.
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