OK, first let me make it clear I am not very knowledgeable around car electrics so everything has to be spelled out for me, better yet drawn out in a schematic so I can follow along.
I am getting close to putting the 2.7 six in and need help with the wiring.
I am keeping the CIS and the fuel pump in the stock location for my 74(not moving it to the front).
A member here had helped me out about a year ago with details around how he had wired in his 2.7 even sent me an email with pictures and a drawing of his connectors. Now that I am getting to the point I need them I cannot find where I saved/stored them. To make it even worse I can’t remember who sent them to me.
So if anyone out there has a simple schematic and pictures on how they connected the wiring harness of a 2.7 with CIS to the wiring harness of a 74-4 cylinder I would so much appreciate any help I can get.

I'll keep an eye on this...I'm in the same boat.

However, I'll be real interested to see how you do the 2.7 with the CIS system installed....I'd never thought about that.

I am keeping the CIS for a couple of reasons:
1. The group here thought carbs don't work as well with stock cam
2. The humidity around here plays havoc with carbs, may run good in the morning by afternoon they run like crap or vice versa.
3. I don't have the money to change out the cam at this time
4. I don't have the money to buy a set of carbs at this time.
5. I wanted to have a car that I could get in and just drive. (Most of the time)

I guess that is more than a couple

Item #4 is valid.#3 is semi-valid, but moot.. The rest is ignorance talking.....internet exspurts.

You have such an elogant way with words JP

You may be able to sell the CIS bits for enough to purchase carbs but I think there are pros and cons for both systems. I hope the CIS works out well for you.

I think CIS parts go for maybe $200....not sure you can find a good set of carbs for under $1500.

There's always the triumph speed triple ITB route...check the 911 section on pelican for details...but then again, that's about 2x what carbs cost.

Thanks for the help

He's generally good for that

Send me the year of your car, and the year of the CIS system, and I will send you a wiring diagram.

Clay,

Not sure about the original poster, but my car is a '73 2.0 and the doner motor is supposedly a '77 2.7 (I think they were the same as the S)

Yeah, what a bunch of idiots to think that fuel injection could possibly be more reliable than carbs....

Let me see if I can offer a more constructive opinion than JP.

1. It's not so much that the carbs won't work with the stock cams, it's more that you'll be wasting fuel potential on a very mildly cammed engine. Unless you change the cams and up the compression, you're much better off with the CIS. Even if you did change that stuff, there are much better options than hundred-year-old technology.

2. This is basically just an observation that carbs suck and you're totally right.

3 and 4 are always valid.

5. You're totally right. Keep the CIS and you'll keep the reliability.


I've wired CIS to a 914 on TurtleGirls conversion, but I don't have notes. It's not too difficult and someone will certainly give you some actual help, rather than criticism.


Sorry for my ignorance JP.

I've got a set of carbs on the bench, but I may give the CIS a shot...I'll scour the Pelican Parts boards to see if I can get a 964 cam profile to work with the stock CIS heads/pistons if I go that route.

What are your thoughts?

Sorry to bump an old post, but I was wondering if kfish914 got around to his conversion wiring.

I'm going to go with my old 2.0 /4 carb'd engine to a 2.7 /6 CIS engine.

Anyone know if I need to use the relay board or anything else.
I'm sure I can get my hands on a '77 tach to make it easier, but I'd like to make the wiring as clean as possible.

I'm tearing my engine bay down and see a lot of previous owner wiring hacks and mess...want to make sure I don't have anything missing when it's time to install the 6.

Thanks,
Nathan

Keep it easy - call Perry Kiehl and have him build you a harness. My car fired up on the second crank and everything worked as it was supposed to. It also looked 100% factory. Absolutely fantastic product.

George Hussey at Auto Atlanta has a nice little booklet that has all the connector information you would need. The CIS is still basically a mechanical injection system in that a needle valve controls fuel flow to the engine depending on the air flow past the sensor plate. Therefore, the electrical connectors are still fairly simple.

When I converted mine, I used the relay plate and just reconfigured the connector from the engine harness. It wasn't that hard, but I don't have the info available right now as my car is stored up in Wisconsin.

Another option you may want to consider is the Bitz Racing EFI conversion using the stock CIS runners, etc., and a Megasquirt controller.

Thanks for the info, I'll get in touch with Perry at some point.

Re: The Bitz EFI kit...if I do EFI I'll do my own thing and have full control I guess it all depends on if the CIS works or not.

Sorry, I have not completed the conversion yet.
Got laid off and had to take a job for a while making half of what I used to make. Just landed a job making a little more but have to pay down some debt first before spending any money on car but would to hear about any ideas.

Happy to help when you're ready.

Joe, wonder if there is anyone like you up here in the DC area. I'm sure I'll get stuck and will need some helps getting mine running like a top. Might save me my sanity to have someone else put some of it together, haha.

914/4 12 pin engine harness
1.) Green/red ... oil pressure idiot lite
2.) Grey red .... back up lights
3.) Green/black ..... oil temp
4.) Grey/red ... back up light
5.) black/red ... coil terminal 1
6.) Yellow .... starter
7.) Purple/red ... coil 15 (tachometer)
8.) doesn't exist
9.) no connection to engine
10.) no connection to engine
11.) Green ... heater blower connection
12.) white ... AAR

911 14 pin engine harness
1.) Yellow ... starter
2.) not used
3.) Green/black ... oil temp
4.) Green/red ... oil pressure
5.) Green/yellow ...Idiot lite?
6.) not used
7.) not used
8.) Grey ...??
9.) Black/purple .... "C" terminal on CDI
10.) Red/white .... WUR
11.) Blue .... D+ Alternator
12.) Brown ... D- Alternator
13.) Black ... DF Alternator
14.) Grey/red ... rear window defrost relay

Match functions on the wires ..... eg. 914 #12 goes to 911 #10

The 911 alternator already has the 3 pin plug to hook into the external Voltage Regulator so don't cut it off. You merely plug the VR directly into the harness and mount it some where.

If you don't want to use the relay board ... these are the pin outs on the 914/4 main body 14 pin connector:
1.) Yellow ... starter
2.) Blue ... alternator idiot lite
3.) Grey/red ... brake light
4.)Grey/red ... trunk light
5.) Green/red ... oil idiot light
6.) Green /black ... can't read my notes .. maybe oil pressure idiot lite
7.) Black/ red .... tachometer
8.) Black ... fuse 8
9.) Green/white ... htr blower switch
10.) Brown .... ground
11.) Brown/white ... Sporto
12.) Red ... battery +**
13.) Black/red ... fuel pump
14.) Red .... battery +**

For the 911 gauge of oil pressure and oil temp, you have to run your own wires back thru the harness

** don't remember which one if any is switched power.

Hopefully I typed them all correct.

thank you for the description of the cables and colors !!!!