Ok, I cannot run a stock fuel pump with the alternator and water pump hung to the sides. So what fuel pump should I run? How many PSI should it be? I know the factory fuel pump puts out about 30 to 36 PSI, and the one for when I ran carbs was only about 3 to 4 PSI, what should I run for the V8 engine with a Edelbrock 600 CFM carb?

Scott,
just about any electric fuel pump mounted by the tank will work, you will probably need an adustable fuel pressure regulator because as you know it won't need much pressure.

I think the Carter blue was recommended... but any aftermarket 3-6 psi carb'd V-8 pump should do the trick. Think Chevy people... Accel, Edelbrock... I think the nicer pumps are regulated or at least consistant.

Sounds like your pretty close to running

Chris

ps. My factory pump actually will do 80 psi blocked but only flows 200hp of gas.

Scott,
Try to find a pump that will shut off when you reach your low pressure needed for a carb.
Some run all the time and will drive you crazy, i.e., a Holley pump.
Rich

Get an electric pump designed for Carbs, a 2-5 psi is generally all that is needed for a carb. An FI pump will overcome the float bowl valve and flood you out. Holley makes a nice pump. You got American Iron, so take a visit to any local Hot rod store for what you need. Let them know what you are running, and they should be able to get you going ok. Holley has a web site, check them out also on the internet.

good luck

dave

Hail the search engine: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...&f=2&t=9987&hl=

I have a Carter Elect pump that I need to install. My conversion allows the mechanical pump but I have to run the starter for ~ 20 seconds till it get's gas. Good thing I have an Optima.

Previous advise is to mount it on the rear bulkhead and on stock FI rubber mounts and connect into the stock FI plug wherever that is...
Felix

Have Holley, runs all the time, LOUD, mounted on bulkhead so resonation inside car is annoying. Glad you'll be fixing it next weekend

HiJack! And rather than email you, Andy (drew365) and Chris (ccampbell) came by today. Pulled wheels, checked, and everything seems to be OK with transaxle. Is this a great club or what!!

Filed a bit of the lip off on f/g flare and tire does clear now.

Little misfire, so bring your carb and timing lite just in case.

Thanks guys, so I guess I will just pick up the one over a Kragen for 19.99, it runs 4 to 7 PSI. It sounds like it will do the trick. Yes I am pretty close to fire in the hole day. The only thing I am lacking at this point is the exhaust system. I got the headers but nothing after that. I am thinking about using a single Flowmaster dual in/dual out muffler liek on a Camaro or Firebird. Tuck the muffler up in behind the transmission like the factory did. I will be taking it over to Mesa Muffler to have them fit it with something in the next few weeks. Then I will be ready to fire it up. Has anyone ever tried running copper lines down the middle of the car for the radiator flow?My neighbor is a plumber and he suggested it. He has a bunch of 1" copper pipe he will give me if I want to try that. I can bend it to fit the channels that run under the car and come out in front of the engine and in the front trunk and use rubber to go from there. Does this sound feasable? Chris?

Scott,
I used mandrel bent pieces and flange from JC whitney. A 180 and a 45 per side seems to work well. I used cheap Thrush turbo mufflers. Might be a few months before I hear it.
Ed

Be careful about running copper lines down the middle of the car for your cooling. They'll be flattened and useless when you (not if you) pass over a high spot or off a curb. Suggest the green stripe rubber hose. Much more forgiving.

Wayne (type47fan)

I would run rubber hoses from front to back to eliminate 4 additional leak points or places for a hose to blow off a connector. The rubber lines can be installed in about 30 minutes and fit the channels in chassis well.

Brad has described several "off track" scenarios where rubber hoses made contact with foreign objects without damage. Same would not have occured with metal pipe.

John

Search for Chris Julian who has done this. His radiators not installed yet so can't be sure it works. The rubbers underneath is the least fab work and a well proven method.

Yet another vote for rubber vs copper ...

Ok, what about running the hoses through the old heater ducts inside the kick panels? Has anyone done that? I was thinking if I run them through there. It would be easy to pull the hoses through from the front and they would exit out in the engine compartment on each side. What do you think? I may be doing it tomorrow and that is why I am asking. Also, the Rod Simpson kit came with a long 1" hose and a long 3/4" hose to run to the back, wouldnt I be better off with 2 1" hoses from front to rear? Better flow and all? Let me know what works best.

Running them the way you propose will require that the hoses in the front trunk go low from the radiator up over the wheel well and down into the ducts. That will compound the problem of capturing air. Suggest you go with the very proven approach of rubber gates hoses under the car.

E

Gates green stripe hoses can be purchased at a local large truck supply. The 1.25 inch hose was less than $3 a foot and the 1 inch was $2.25 a foot.
These seem to be high quality hoses and have not been a problem.

Bob

What works best is the Renegade method using Gates hoses routed down center of chassis. There have been too many reports of cooling issues when routed through longs. to continue trying this method over and over again.

Hose size should match cooling system (radiator to water pump etc.). Again, the Renegade system has a proven track record.

Not to say nothing else will work, but this is the heart of making the v8 conversion a sucess. Why fight it?

John

I have just finished a 73 using Gates hose down the center. The owner has run over objects with only minor damage to the hose locator brackets. I was impressed with the forgivness of the hose. Larry...(Westling Performance Engineering)