Forgive my ignorance, but I have read many posts that reference POR-15.

Can someone tell me exactly what this product is?

Where can it be purchased?

My car has rustproofing (sticky stuff) in the trunks, door jambs, underneath, etc.

Is this POR-15?

Thanks.


-----------------------------------------
'76 Malaga Red

POR-15

Por15 is an extremely durable paint. Try www.por15.com for everything about it. They have a great FAQ section. The "sticky" stuff on your car is probably fresh rustproofing. The original rustproofing has usually dried out by now so I doubt it's original stuff. Por15 is rock hard when dry and can be tough to remove once applied. Great for preventing rust on our old cars.

You can buy it directly from the link above or you may find it locally at specialty paint stores.

nope, that's undercoating!
no good after 30 years. it cracks and traps water and then you get RUST ...

http://www.por15.com/
Andy

btw. in germany, they (the car manufacturers) recommend to clean off old undercoating and re-apply new undercoating every 2 Years!

you can imagine how good 30 year old undercoating works (NOT!) ...
Andy

How do you remove undercoating? The PO of my car sprayed undercoating all over the place, though it seems more durable than the usual rubberized stuff I've seen in the past.

heat gun and a scraper. Ask Jenny!

plumbers torch works good too. just heat it enough to flake off with a putty knife, not until it's gooey or on fire.

this is the best way to go ...

http://www.carblast.de/

they blast little particles of dry-ice onto it and it'll brake off in chunks without scratching the paint!



Andy

HAH!!

we used to use fire extinguishers to "freeze" off mis-applied thermoplastic road stripes

I use a rosebud tip on low heat and scrape away...where I can access I just let it catch on fire

Eastwood Co. sells a product designed to remove undercoating.

PK

I have used Permatex Extend and found this product to be very helpful. What is the difference in Permatex Extend vs POR-15 other than the resulting color of the finished area?
L. McC

boston914,
You can see the real stuff here. Or you can see it in person if
you want to go north (w. newbury) It is very hard and shiny,
but not supposed to see sunlight.

part of My Webpage

Boston914,
It sounds like you got the same problem as myself. Someone sprayed this sticky black crap inside both trunks, cockpit, valances, rockers and underside. I stripped the cockpit with every method above with little luck. A heat gun worked better than most especially when used with (Kiddies, DON'T try ths at home) GUNK engine degreeser. My last ditch effort to finish my floors was plane, old, ordinary, aircraft stripper (Kinda like the kind you see at the Golden Banana, but this stuff smell better)

I'll be doing the POR15 on my battery tray pretty soon. Give me a shout if you want to see it in action.
781/273-4841

Thanks Dave.

I was at your event last year.
I do not know if you remember my car.

Anyway, I am looking forward to another get together.

Is the breakfast being scheduled for the 12th?

I have wondered this same thing many times. Would love to hear the answer, but I think since we may be the only 2 guys who are NOT at or on their way to the WCC right now, we may never find out.

I've used both and found Extend to be ok. What makes the POR15 'system' a better product is it's top coat. If you look at the POR15 site, the product they call Metal Ready (or something like that) is about the same as the Extend product. Left alone, it will rust again... and fast.

Thank you Dave.

After reading the Por-15 site in more detail, it is starting to make sense to me now.

My boys and I treated rust on the 914 six years ago. During this take down/rebuild I find all places treated with Extend to be intact and no recurrent rust.
L. McC

Extend is basically like OSPHO if I remember right, if it works as well as OSPHO, it's pretty damn good! I've used OSPHO on several things... it works well...

Extend is kinda like Ospho mixed with latex paint.

Treats the rust (sorta) then covers it with a flexible coating that looks/feels like latex.

Not real impressed with my trials on my bug. Rust bubble bulged and penetrated the coating. Once that happened, the rust lifted the entire sample and it rusted like crazy underneath.

Still lookin for spray on diamond coating.

Ken

Ken,
Is this what you wanted?

http://www.brunel.ac.uk/faculty/tech/syste...ms/groups/dlcc/

So my car is black, and needs a paint job badly. I am thinking that it would be nice to do the trunks myself, in black POR15. Wire wheel them down to bare metal, and paint myself. I use the car as a weekend driver, and for DE events. For the DE events, i drive the car, and use the trunks to haul stuff. If the trunks were done in POR15 would they hold up to all of the abuse?? I have a little surface rust in the trunks, but nothing serious. Any one try this stuff in their trunks??

I've never been perfectly clear on this.... You just paint the POR-15 right over the rust, correct?

The "system" is three steps. 1. clean with marine clean. 2. apply Metal Ready (rust converter) 3. apply POR15

That and zinc dicromate as a metal prep.

I've used Por-15 for about 10 years, no problems to report.


To take off the ruberized undercoating, I used citrus degreaser, keep it wet for 10 minutes or so and then pressure wash the stuff off.


As far as the 30 year old German undercoating, I found that the paint stripper made by por-15 is fantastic. I spent days trying different chemicals to get the undercoating off of my 6. Using the por-15 paint remover, I did an entire fenderwell in about 2-3 hours.

Um,

Before the three step process, I would wire brush off the loose rust (chunks, scale, etc)- . Surface rust is OK, converter can convert that. Don't do that, and it's coming back through the paint.

Zinc dicromate is a wonderful metal protection and plating process. I would plate the entire car just after dipping it to remove all the rust. Then I would spray it with diamond coating.

Wonder if the wifey would mind if I began diamond coating parts in the microwave oven? Seems that the Russians started the process by filling the oven with methane gas and applying microwaves.....

Now where did I put my methane gas??????????.......

No smart comments Pleez!

Ken

Yep...The only thing you need the "Metal Ready" for is if you're going to be coating over non-rusted metal. The Metal Ready stuff leaves a zinc phosphate coating on the shiny metal (and converts any rust present), which helps the POR-15 adhere reeeaall good. The "Marine Clean" IMHO is a waste of money, but definitely get some Metal Ready, Ospho, or Oxisolv down on the metal (non-rusted) prior to the POR-15 coat. Super tough stuff!