Who's done that job. and how?

I'm referring to the very small woven copper strap connecting the Dist. body and points retention plate inside the Dizzy. Mine is detached at both ends.

It looks like disassembly of the distributor is first step and that would require removal from engine.

Then to clean, flux, tin and solder the two ends back to their former locations.

Correct...?

Im not terribly confident I can get that solder joint to stick, but there doesn't appear to be a source for replacement plate assemblies nor for reliable stock distributors and so I guess I'm going to try -- if I can figure out how to get enough access to remove the distributor.

Any good dizzy alternatives to stock for early 1.7 FI motor?

Other sage words of advice?

You have the right idea. I used a piece of the woven copper wire that is used to remove solder. I just clamped it near the solder joint with a pair of needle nose pliars to keep the solder from wicking up the woven area. Clean both sides, and solder with a large solder iron. I used a pistol type. Held on for 30 years. JoeO

It can be done. I got the copper woven wire at Radio Shack; it's used to wick up solder and comes on a spool.

Great. Appreciate the input and thanks for the encouragement. Any tips to ease removal and disassembly of distributor?

You could always ditch the points and go electronic. I put Pertronix on both my 914s, set the timing and never looked back.

I do keep a set of points in my toolbox just in case.

"...ditch the points and go electronic."

Can't argue with you -- electronic ignition has been universal for last 30 years for a reason -- but I can't just leave the distributor as it is, i.e., "broken."

Appreciate any advice on removal: looks like a job for a 13MM crowfoot wrench and also looks impossible to remove the Vac can before the dist???

Or just loosen the timing and turn the vac can out of the way.

Thanks. Helpful to know when you're progressing in the right direction.

"Or just loosen the timing and turn the vac can out of the way."

Good advice but I'm afraid of "static timing."

A few minutes later...

I found a special box end wrench in my toolbox that I used to tighten intake manifold bolts with type 1 dual carburetors and and it slid in under the vacuum can perfectly to remove the Dist. clamp nut. I fished the nut and washer with a magnetic probe. (don't ask how I'm going to get it back on). The wrench is bent 90 degrees on the thin dimension (as if you were to fold a wrench over in a vice) and has an adapter at the other end to accept a ratchet handle. Dimension of wrench leg is spot on for that job.

Now that the clamp is free the dizzy feels "stuck" in position, but I've heard of others complain of the same thing. I'm going to pull harder.

The one and only other time I replaced a distributor (on a VW) the old exited without a fuss.

This seems like a pretty basic procedure but if anyone wants a photo of wrench or dizzy clamp, I'm happy to oblige.

How to remove a stuck distributor using a class-two lever

at your own risk...

1. Pass two loops of parachute cord under the distributor body. Be sure to clear the FI points wire and anything else (e.g., condenser) that shouldn't receive strain
2. Bring ends of cord up and tie a knot, forming a loop a few inches over the distributor
3. place a 3 foot 3/4 inch steel rod through the loop
4. Place blocking on the engine cover forward and to the right of the distributor (closer to firewall, towards passenger side)
5. Rest the end of the steel rod against the blocking
6. Adjust where the loop bears against the steel rod so the force against the loop of parachute cord "pulls" it upward at the same angle as the axis of the distributor shaft
7. lift the free end of the steel rod, careful to maintain the correct axis of force against the loop, raising the distributor
8. Out pops the distributor