With all the 914 painting going on, I'm sure some new buffer / polishers have been bought and used.

Looking for something that would be less likely to cut through new paint.

Not a lot of experience rubbing out paint.

The harbor freight one sucks. 2nd day working on it and it starts to go all over the place RPM wise (Its adjustable), reviews show this as a common problem. Its under warrenty, so i'll see about a replacement..

Before that it worked pretty good, a bit noisy and the provided pads were crap (obviously get good pads here..).

I might get a good one, or see if I can borrow one from my body shop.

I use a air buffer and foam pads, it's light and easy to control the speed. Burning paint is real easy to do. Watch the direction the wheel turns and let it go off the edge never into it. Go slow around any tough spots. You can also tape the sharp edges and do them by hand to save a serious touchup. Any tool you use will burn paint if you aren't careful.

I use a porter cable random orbital, with pads I buy from either Griots Garage or the local Detailer supply store--Griots sells one with their label on it but it's a Porter Cable... Harder to burn your paint with this type--they claim nearly impossible but I'm a believer in the statement that if you can "make something idiot proof, they'll make a better idiot"...

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+ca...ndom+orbital.do

Makes polishing and waxing take no time even on your big vehicles...

Wait 45 days before you touch it. The paint that is.

I've had no problems with my HF buffer. My dad bought the digital display model, and has had no problems yet.

Bodyshop next to my work that I get all my advice from uses a HF buffer. He's had it for years. So I am going to give it a try. The black one, not the one with the LCD display.

I've been donating to Griots college fund for about 15 years.

Oh, come on Elliott. Word's out around the North County that you've been seen covering your hairy body with polishing compound and vigorously, but gently, rubbing yourself all over your car .................

The Cap'n, sees all, knows all .....................

I have GOT to keep that garage door closed.

I have a makita. I have had it for about 7 years and have never a had a single problem with it. It has variable rpm's, and its light weight so your arms dont get tired. And I use it at least once a week for about 8 hours if not more. You can get em for about 200 which is a little pricey but I wouldnt use anything else.

I have the Makita also...best one I could find.
Get the long handle version from Porter Cable/Milwakee/Makita and you will be happy.

Start on a slow speed and use the foam head if you want to go slow.
The sheep skin heads dig deeper.

To clean the sheep skin, use a large flat head screw driver and hold it against the pad while its spinning fast....
Dont do that on the foam..it disintegrates.

Get as many heads as you get of compounds and switch heads with ecah compound so you dont have residue on the heads.

Wash them all with water when you are done so they are ready for the next session.

I get the three stage compund kit from 3m...its three quarts and seems to last two seasons for me.
Then I hand wax.

Rich

Also

I have the Makita 9227c best $200 bucks I've spent on tools/machines

Harbor freight has a sale right now on their buffer for $30 w/ 90 day warrenty.

Just got a new one last night and have put about 1 hour of constant use on it and so far its been working really well! (Combined with a proper foam pad and backing pad, its really a great tool).

Good for you best $30 spent
you're happy and it's all good

but higher ends are more smoother
easier on old guys hands

BTW I have a Makita too
Bit of an art to work around the targa trim

That's a common misconception. Being a painter, I can tell you, you can sand and polish 24hrs after the car comes out fo the booth. Yes the paint is still curing, yes you have to be careful. But if you see a spot that the shop didn't quite buff out completely, or if they missed a speck of dirt you can absolutely polish that thing.

You have to wait 2 weeks to a month when it comes to waxing, or using as carwash with a wax compound in it. Waxing a freshly painted car without allowing for proper curing can trap the solvents in the clear, causing it to turn brittle and give it a white/yellowish color.

Best thing you can do to help speed up the curing process of the clear/singlestage, everyday (or as many days as you can) roll it outside and let it sit in the sun. do that for 2-3 weeks in the summer, and after that wax away!

But if the car needs buffing, buff it. Just make sure to ask the shop that painted it how many coats of clear they put on it. 2 is a minimum, 3 is most likely gonna be the answer if it's a high quality/expensive job. make sure you always have the buffing pad rotating OFF the edges of the panel, not ONTO the edgest to prevent burn through.

-Matt

My old man is 67, has no problems with the HF one. Guess it's just boils down to how often your gonna use it.