So the car was running fine before I did this. I removed the points and condenser.

The pertonix has two plates. One that screws onto the bottom dizzy plate with on screw...then a second plate installs on top and has 2 nut/bolts.

The second plate seems to have an adjustment where it can pivot on top of the first plate which seems to alter the distance of the sensor tot he magnet sleeve.

Am I supposed to tighten the second plate down or is it supposed to pivot? Do these dizzys have advance? Weights under the plate?

I have a 1.7 with carbs and the dizzy doesn't seem to have any vacuum lines to it.

Car starts very hard and runs really rough now; less power and doesn't climb revs like before.. I haven't put a timing light to it yet but was wondering how the plates install.

Do I have to set dwell? Is that even possible? Pertronix instructions are a joke.

You are going to have to set the timing. Dwell is fixed.

Does it matter how the second plate is tightened down? Do these dizzys have advance?

Yes, and if you don't have a vac line, it's probably the dreaded 009. If you grab the rotor, it should move against the springs and snap back when let go. You will need to re-set timing after the install.

Another "upgrade" performing as expected. Expected by me, that is.........................

The Cap'n

Check this thread.

First plate is fixed. 2nd plate for air gap adjustment. You tighten BOTH plates ... 1st the bottom plate ... adjust the air gap and then the second.

Dwell is not set .... only timing.

Advance mechanism is in the distributor below the point plate.

With no vacuum canister, are you running an 009? If so, your idle timing is going to be 16 degrees BTDC or thereabouts to get the 27 degrees BTDC @ 3000 if I remember correctly.

Anyway .... that's my answer to your question. Being old, I could be wrong. You know you can't trust anyone over 30.

Probably the 009. The rotor does shift about a 1/4" and snaps back. I didn't check it before I took the points out.

Is the air gap the space between the sensor and the magnet? Plate 2 has quite a bit of adjustment. How close? How do i adjust?

I've used these before on an MG and Fiat but don't remember anything...I'm over 30 too.

Did you not get instructions with your Pertronix? This stuff is all in there...

There should be a little clear plastic tab that sets your air gap.

I'll look through the bag but i don't think so, all i got were 2 plates, magnet, 1 screw and 2 nuts.
I don;t remember the instructions mentioning anything like an air gap. I'll take a look when I get home but thinking I don;t have the plastic tab...guessing it's a feeler gauge of some type.

Static timing at 16 degress BTDC? That seems high. Is this because the 009 only has 11 degrees of total advance? Is there an ideal static timing for a carbed motor, or it that dependant on the motor configuration?

Make sure your "bottom plate" is seated correctly... aside from the single counter sunk screw hole there is a detent that correctly positions & holds that plate down.
Then slide the magnet down & gently twist until seated on the shaft w/o movement....
Im not sure about the 009 but there should also be a 3rd plate in the kit to space up the PU if necessary.

First, do you require the 2nd plate. It's just a spacer. Some dizzy's don't need 'em. The plastic piece is a feeler gage and it's a MF to see in the plastic bag with old eyes. As far as "gently" pushing the rotor on . The last 2 I've done were tighter than sock on a rooster. One that I did 18 mo's ago slid right on. Go figure. Just remember to NOT leave your key in the "on" position unless the engine "is" running. Or else you'll fry your Petronix. BTW, I did general maintenance thing yesterday and after 7000 miles the plugs were absolutely gorgeous and of course the timing was still spot on. They're great.

I don't know the total advance on an 009, but I do know it is far short of what it should be for a Type 4. I don't use 009s ... they make better fishing weights than distributors.

Regardless, the total centrifugal advance built into the distributor minus the total advance required by the Type 4 will equal the static timing required (once you convert the negative by my formula to a positive). I know the 1.7s / 2.0s' factory specs are 27 degrees. I have been told they run sweeter at about 32 degees, but may heat the heads up a tad more. More research ...

Now if it was a 1.8 distributor (009), it would be a different story on the initial advance required.

I believe the much advertised (and beloved by knowitalls on the web) 009 weighs in at an astonishing 17 degrees of total advance. Remember, this unit was designed for an industrial engine that probably never revved over 3000 RPM and ran at a steady speed for hours at a time, not a road going car. 10-12 degrees BTDC static or at idle should give you 29-30 degrees fully advanced. There is considerable manufacturing variation, so it's best to verify the final settings. I didn't use them when they were $29.95, retail, and I still don't.

The Cap'n