When pressing down on the clutch pedal (clutch disengaged) I hear a high pitch whining/whirring noise. Happens whether the car is moving or not. Noise does not happen with the clutch engaged. (clutch pedal released) Car shifts pretty good, but I think I'm running out of room to adjust the clutch on the clutch cable. (Another issue that probably points to something needing replacement)

I've been searching through posts for an hour and my best guess is throwout bearing. Yes? No?

And whatever it is, can I make repair without removing the engine?

Thanks!

Sounds like a throw out bearing is squealing for sure. I have the same thing going on in my car right now. I have heard of some people "re-packing" the bearing to quiet them down. of course on pelican they tell you to replace it with every clutch replacement . These go for something like 125 dollars. so if you bought your car without putting a clutch in it ... the PO could have reused the bearing from a previous clutch. Or it could of sat for really long time before you got to it. I doubt that clutch cable tension is the culprit. although you should consider that maybe the clutch cable tube has broken its welds and is moving around thusly changing the tension of the cable. To remove the bearing you have to separate the motor from the trans. ALso the running out of adjustment could mean that your cable is getting ready to snap.

Hope this helps. Nice to meet another Robert with a teener in the PNW

Yes, throwout bearing. Leave the clutch cable alone.
Live with it till you do the clutch and hope it will not die earlier. You will need a new one any way.

Don't forget about the pilot bearing!
It only comes into use when the clutch is disengaged and the crank turns different speed than the trans mainshaft/clutch disc. Not a common failure but is commonly left out of a clutch job.
If the noise does not start until the clutch is disengaged (not just when you start pushing on the pedal) it could be the pilot bearning.
The throw out bearing will usually start making noise when you get some pressure on it from pushing the pedal down but before the clutch is disengaged.

You can also adjust the cable too tight so when you push the pedal all the way to the floor the TO bearing & pressure plate make noise from going to far.


Jim

ALL HANDS,

I was shocked at the current price for 914 T.O. Bearings......so I did some net research and found that AMAZON has the best price at $109.03. Still stinks, but is less painful than the other retail stores.

http://www.amazon.com/Sachs-W0133-1608323-...ef=pd_rhf_p_t_1

Best,
Terry

Ductech, thanks for the info. My clutch tube is ok (repaired in the past already). Ill make sure I don't have the clutch cable too tight (I did adjust it recently, and before I heard the noise) and then plan on replacing the clutch. I assume that just replacing the entire clutch is worth doing 'while I'm in there'.
'
Does anyone sell a full clutch kit with everything I need to refresh all of the parts that should be replaced 'while I'm in there'?

Oh dear god .... I hate to say this but i think pelican parts has a complete clutch kit for some good penny..... What i would do is source a cheaper bearing and then wander thru the used goodies on here ... get a clutch disk with about 9 mm thickness as they come with about 10 mm new if i remember correctly.... someone could quote me on this. I wouldn't be opposed to using a slightly used disc to save some money.... as long as it wasn't bathed in oil... sometimes people upgrade and leave their still only half used parts in the garage. see what you can find if your willing. I look at it as there are two ways 1 is money, the 2nd is time.... usually if you don't have the time to put it all together (i.e. find the parts slightly used) then you end up paying the money to have someone gather the parts for you into a kit. Also using used clutch parts means you must be willing to realise that you may need to take the motor out and do it again sooner than you want to. What do you have ? Money or time?

you can sometimes tell if its the TO bearing by tapping or slightly leaning your foot on the pedal....it changes the tone of the bearing with just a hair of tension.

For the clutch.
Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, cup bushing for clutch release fork, flywheel o-ring, pilot bearing.

Might consider rear main seal while you are there, also front main seal on the tranny.
This is one of those "last time you are going in there" type repairs on a classic car.

There may be one more piece that I cant remember but I am sure someone will step in and correct me for my failing memory.

Rich

Someone mentioned in a earlier thread the possibility of using a later model Bug release bearing with an adapter (?????). This would be great for me ( $- X 10 ) as I have two brand new ones of this flavor.I understand that some parts are going to be less reasonably priced than others , but a release bearing ??? Oh well .

Jack

Here's what's in the Pelican kit:
New Pressure Plate
New 911 Clutch Disc
New Throw-out Bearing
New Pilot Bearing and Felt Ring
2 Throw-out Bearing Guide Clips
New Throw-out Fork Bushing
2 CV Joint Gaskets
2 Muffler Gaskets
New Flywheel O-Ring
New Flywheel Bolts
New Flywheel Metal Crush Gasket
Clutch Disc Alignment Tool

Total: ~$600

Or I can add a flywheel to the kit for an additional $400= a total of $1k. Damn. I could probably find a complete working engine and tranny for that price.

Jeez, this is going to be a spendy repair.
Thoughts? All items necessary?

I am almost looking forward to dropping the engine as I never done it before and could take care of some other things (break some things, too probably), but I am so NOT looking forward to removing the heat exchangers, only because it means putting them back on and possibly finding that I need to install another time-cert for an exhaust stud.


Ductech - if you want to team up to help eachother out with the work, let me know!

I have good used ones for cheap

Verified that it does indeed change pitch when I barely lean on the clutch pedal.
Also verified that adjusting the cable didn't make a difference, other than when I put a bunch of slack in the cable (too much to disengage the clutch at the pedal) the noise went away.


Good Dr., A PM will be sent to you soon. Thanks

Two questions:

1) Any way to drop the transmission without dropping the entire engine? Or is that just crazy talk? Time to break out the Haynes manual if I can find it.

2) Any danger in driving the car while I gather the fund$ for purchasing the clutch parts?

Can be done, and easier than some other cars. You will need to support the engine so figure how you will do that. I believe you still need to separate the halfshafts from the transmission so go ahead and start making your parts list for bolts, Schnorr washers, and gaskets.

If the bearing fails comprehensively it will leave you with no way to disengage the clutch - but you've practiced driving without a clutch, yes? You can prolong its life by not leaving the car in gear with the pedal down at stops - a good practice anyway. Just use it when you need it (which is at most starting from a dead stop, and that's kind of optional with a good battery...)

1) Absolutely. I only do it this way. It is easier to manipulate a separate engine and tranz when alone. Just place a block under the engine, and allow the whole shooting match to angle downward. Have the muffler removed, and pull the tranny rearward and prepare to catch it.

Anyone local want their tranny dropped? I need to make a pictorial about this so it can be clearer.

The Doc's right. Hell I pulled the transmission out of the yellow rust bucket up at the arlington pick n pull. The car was sitting on their trademark rim stands, one rim stand holding the back of the car up placed under the exhaust can. It was a little scary Pulling the trans ... but you do what you have to do. I might be able to team up with you and help you get that transmission out for that clutch change.

Let us know what the good evil dr. does for yah