Easy for you 914 mavens.
For the street driver only, no competition track (means pretty but aggressive)

1. Fire Extinguishers--------which type is best? ie; halon, best mount, ie; floor, seat rails etc. OR in engine compartment automatic sys?
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2. Battery quick disconnect ---------prevent storage drain. assuming battery is in original location on tray, which is best? "Key type" or terminal quick unscrew style (at batt terminal) AND best location for key switch (in cab dash? or on engine lid?) Bosch, or Rennline (with red key?)

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THANK YOU

a) you want something in the cabin with you unless your race regs require otherwise, which you've said they don't.

b) get something with an alternator cutoff circuit, unless you are going for a specific vintage look for concours purposes. If you are, find a way to incorporate an alternator cutoff circuit...

I am fitting a period-correct 1-pole switch to my RSR homage - but there will be an alternator cutoff circuit wired in behind the scenes.

You must ask yourself 'why'. If it's just for the look. put it where you want and don't wire it in. For street cars, the ignition switch is fine.

Mount the battery disconnect so if something hits it (tire chunks, fender pieces, etc.) it won't shut off.

Thank you Art!
Quick follow-up please:
1. Is it possible to mount the extinguisher in cabin without mounting to the seat rails OR if mounted on floor will it interfere with the operation of the seat adjustment? What do you guys do?
2. What is best fit size-wise, 1lb or 2.5lb?

Batts
3. Where do install batt cut-off in concours level?
4. How and why do you install alternator cutoff?
5. Which product is best?

thanks

eeeeee

Kind of a trick question, because I've only had pre-'73's.
Donno why you would not want to mount it to the seat rails - they're one of the stronger structural elements in the cabin. I think there is room to mount on the tunnel, for the right size bottle.


this gets back to 'why' ? Smaller fits better, of course. but a pound of Halon isn't going to put out anything if the wind's blowing. The standard for AX/DE used to be 2:A/10:BC. IMO avoid dry-chemical because the aftermath of deployment may be worse than the fire you're trying to put out (it's really corrosive.) Halon (or whatever they're using now that halogenated hydrocarbons have been deemed environmentally unfriendly) doesn't have this issue, but it does require a certain percentage my volume of the air, which is hard to achieve outside.

Look at places the pro racers shop, like PegasusRacingEquipment.com


the two standard period-correct places for 914 are the cowl, forward of the driver, and the stationary vent panel by the engine cover. You must be careful in a street-driver car, because if someone besides you takes the key - you are screwed... Or you can mount it inside, in which case - why? the ignition key works fine... There are a few unfused circuits but not worth losing sleep over. If you just like the look - mount what you like and don't wire it in. For a stock-location battery, something near the battery will work best.


Why is easy - cutting the load on an operating alternator will kill it quicker than sooner. Basically you need to provide a resistive path to ground for the plus side. This is accomplished by a separate set of terminals on the kill switch. A wiring diagram will come with the switch. If it has only two big terminals - it doesn't have one... The lovely period-correct Bosch switch - doesn't have one.


I'm doing the lovely period-correct Bosch - but with a behind-the scenes relay for the alternator protection. The removable red-switch Hella is also pretty close to period-correct. But since nothing with the possible exception of a real GT came with one, nothing will be truly correct, so do what you like.

Here is my cut off switch. May not be period correct but nothing on my car is...

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Bump,

Thank you,
Anyone add any other teeners use the batt cut outs or use an alternator cut out too, any picts so appreciated.

Nobody fears the fuel pump fires?
What's a halon FE for, or is AA's $160 what most spend? Is it ok best to mount on aftermarket slider brackets?

My cut-off is on the cowl in front of the driver as well. Here's the look of it under the hood.

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The top looks like every other cowl-mounted switch. Use stainless steel hardware and a good quality switch, wherever you mount it.

Good luck

I have both, i have the provision for the cut off and fire system outside the car on the drivers side cowl unattached unless i plan on going to the track. i have a fuel pump cutoff switch on the dash as well as a ignition kill switch. i also have a manual pull for the afff fire system and a halon 2.5lb hand held mounted to the seat rails.

Fuel pump goes off with the ignition switch.
The external kill switch is so the track corner workers can save you. Not on a track? Not helpful...
Or for an anti-theft device.

Nobody on the street will know what it is or what to do. Most would just let you burn anyway... (Sad but true.) Punks will steal the removable switch key and leave you stranded.

The sad reality is that any fire extinguisher small enough to fit in the cabin is too small to help a fully developed engine fire - especially if it's your own.

FI fires are bad - which is why many later cars (not 914's...) have tach-switched fuel-pump relays that shut off the pump if the engine is not turning. I think many of the 'film-at-11' car fires are people who bail out of the cabin with the switch on. This, though tragic, is still pilot error. X2 - because proper preventative maintenance would have prevented the fire.

I have the dash mounted fuel pump kill and ignition kill in case the fire appears while i'm driving, my steering locks with the ignition turned off.....just seems safer that way.....plus the on board fire system can start working before i exit the car.

In regards to fuel injection my system runs at 100psi

If it does - it's broken - fix it.
The steering doesn't lock until you pull the key.

Mine locks with the key in, the ignition switch sort of pops out and clicks. if i dont turn it all the way back i can keep it from clicking out and yes it would kill the power but in an emergency only a cool head would prevail, i think i would be f--ked and lock the switch in my panic.... i like my kill switches...