Ok, I'm a newbie with a 1974 914 2.0L. I am replacing my heat exchangers and exhaust this week and while I have them off, I figure I'd adjust the valves while
I've got extra room to do so. So.... I spent time finding TDC notch on my flywheel and scribed a mark corresponding on the bottom viewing window of the trans.
I also have a red paint mark that was made on the fan that lines up with this as well.
When I go to adjust valves on #1, they are very tight and can't even get a feeler gauge into it to adjust. Then when I try to loosen the screw, it is making no difference in the looseness of the adjustment. What is happening here? Am I making some stupid mistake or is there something wacky going on? I've adjusted valves before on Karmann Ghias so I know how to do the adjustment basically. Also, the nuts are not
13 mm, they are 14 mm on this engine. I know the engine is from a 1975 car but I'm
not sure if the rocker arms were replaced or not......confused.
Am I doing something wrong here? Thanks!

First off, do a search for the Krusty version of valve adjusting. Much easier then always trying to find TDC for each cylinder.

Also, the motor goes through 2 revolutions for each cycle. One is TDC, one is not. You may not be at TDC, even though you are at the TDC mark on the fan. If you are 180 off, the piston will still be at the top of its travel, but the exhaust valve will be open and there for VERY tight.

Zach

Sometimes the fans have two timing marks one @tdc and one @ 27 degrees btdc . Ask me how I know

When the notch on the flywheel can be felt through the top hole where the trans and block mate up, pop the distributor cap and and see if the rotor points toward the small notch in the top ot the distributor housing. Its about the 10:00 position viewing the diz from the rear. If it points 180 from that notch, turn the crank one more revolution. You can remove the #1 plug and insert a plastic straw (not a chopstick) (inside joke) to verify the piston is at TDC.

Zach - I've seen Krusty's adjustment procedure and have determined that it's more work for me to do based on the fact that you can't see both sides of the engine while turning the tire. It's easier for me to do the basic 1-2-3-4 process right now while I am getting more comfortable with everything underneath, where my TDC is,etc.
If that doesn't make sense, well....I'm like that sometimes!!
I believe that I was not on TDC when I was looking at it before and I did get 1 & 2
adjusted ok, working on 3 & 4 next. I just want to go back through afterwards and double check my valves and make sure I am doing it all right; whenever I rush is when I start screwing up things!! One thing for sure, turning the tire while I'm on my
back is making me freakin' tired! Next time I'm going to get a dedicated helper....

Hi Simon - I do have a couple of marks but only one of them lines up with the notch on the flywheel.
What color is your '76? And do you have any recommendations for mechanics here in Indianapolis? Or do you do your own wrenching?

You have spark plugs removed, yes? This makes turning the engine via the tire much easier.

Also, you can't trust the dizzy. A PO may have installed in 180 out and just moved the wires to get it to run. Unless you know the dizzy points to #1 at TDC, the only sure fire way to find TDC is to check that the piston is at top of its travel and both valves are closed.

The white mark on the fan is the TDC mark. Red is 27degrees. If your fan has a "0" that is also TDC instead of the white mark. Some fans have a black mark, which is 5 degrees BTDC. You want either the white mark or the "0" between the notch.

Zach is right about the dizzy. On that same line, anyone can paint the TDC and BTDC any color they want. Verify and make your own marks.

PM sent.

Most of the time, TDC is marked white and the 27 degree BTDC is marked red.

Opposite valve method ... you don't need to see the other side of the engine. If the valve is in the down (open position), its' partner on the other side is fully closed and on the base circle (heel) of the cam. No guesswork period as you don't have to find TDC or know what cylinder you are on.

Sorry Zach ... didn't read your post entirely.

Oh, and the rockers changed in 73 to the larger adjusting lugs, which have the jam nuts that take the 14mm wrench. That's why you want early rocker arms when you do the 911 swivel-foot adjuster conversion; the later ones don't fit the 911 lugs.

--DD

Thanks everyone, I got it done! I see what you mean now by not having to see both sides of the engine at once....thanks SLITS.
Dave - I'd never seen that about the later cars going to the 14 mm nuts.....now I know! At least I learned some things in process.

Unfortunately, the job I was intended to achieve today, heat exchangers and new
Bursch exhaust, did not work out as planned. The SS heat exchangers I got don't
quite line up with the studs and I couldn't get either of them to seat up into the proper position. I guess I'll have to have them done at a shop that can deal with some bending of metal as I don't have the proper tools to do so to get them to fit right. They
are just slightly off. I put my old rusted HE's back on and I think I either made them leak worse in the process or I didn't get them seated as tight on the exhaust ports as I need them because it's twice as loud now.....not sure where it's leaking at but I'm guessing it is where they are bolted to the studs. I did use the copper rings; perhaps I didn't torque them enough? I don't want to break any studs in the process of tightening them. I think I need a beer now!

i just did this same thing that you have done. the h/e [heat exchangers] can take a bit of fuguring to get them on, a bit of a twist and turn. then to tighten them DO NOT TORQUE THEM DOWN TOO TIGHT!!! if they leak with the car on jack stands start it up and use a section of vacuum hose to your ear and put the other end up to the exhuast ports to find what port and what side is leaking, you can tell what side of a single port is leaking this way. then shut off the engine and go under and loosen the good side and tighten the leaky side. use a 1/4 drive ratchet so you dont over tighten the nut and strip out the stud in the head.

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