I occasionally get the old grinding gear noise (usually into 1st or reverse), and 3rd sometimes doesn't want to drop in too easily. Tranny was "freshened" about 3000 mi ago.

I replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and cable when I took the tranny out. What is a little weird is the cable adjustment is all the way up the threaded rod despite all this new stuff. Am wondering if the shifting issues are related.

I've seen references to needing to "jack up" the clutch lever fulcrum with a washer. When I had the tranny rebuilt, I put it back in the way it came out, ie no washer.

Anybody have any experience in this area? Adding the washer means dropping the !@#$ tranny again, and CV joint grease is not my favorite hair gel, even if it does hide the gray.

motor mounts?

bad synchros?

(I know - you just had the tranny re-freshened. . .)

I am just in the process of researching things needed to do a 1st gear synchro repair and clutch job. From what I have read, the plastic bushing at the throwout fulcrom ball joint often needs replacement. I'm not sure if this would help things but I can imagine that if its worn down it coule cause problems. I saw one just the other day in a car that was broken and destroyed. I think Pelican sells this part for less than $5 or so.

-Tony

Motor mounts are new, and so is that little plastic fulcrum gizmo (thanks to the tranny "freshener" who conveniently lost the original one).

I guess my question should be, how does the presence or absence of that friggin' washer affect the adjustment of the clutch?

Pivot point on the actual clutch arm is worn/gone (unless you did the pedal bushings recently)

I also have to agree with the plastic bushing (always replace them... they are cheap)

Here is how to determine whether or not you need the shim behind the ball:

Did you have the flywheel turned ?? Whatever amount they took off needs to be added behind the ball pivot.

B

John:

I am running a clutch package from KEP I run no washer behind the pivot ball.
I also had to eliminate the nuts on the nosecone of the transmission and replace them with flat top bolts that I ground down a little. This was so my throw out bearing would travel back far enough.

I also have all new plastic bushings firewall and shifter.

I would follow the haynes manual for adjusting the shift rod between the seats in the passenger cabin
and see how that works out for you.

Good Luck.... stop by if you want to do some actual comparisons......

Thanks for the tips guys. Didn't have the flywheel turned when I replaced the clutch, local guru said not to bother. That flywheel has about 80K on it, maybe I'll work up the courage to take half the drivetrain apart and try a washer.

The shift and pedal bushings are new, guess I should tweak the linkage again just to appease the gods.

John,

Do you have the KEP adapter throwout bearing ??

Could the clutch tube have broken up near the pedal assembly ??

Beefed up clutch= more stress on the tube.

B

I've sometimes put a dime (money not bag) under the plastic bushing on the throw out arm. This is instead of a washer under the ball trick. does the same thing.

-Mike D.

MikeD

(every time I type that now.. I think Beastie boys) bastard.

Anyway... I realize a dime is pretty thin.. but doesnt this leave the bushing hanging out of the clutch arm ?? Or is the arm deep enough that it doesnt actually hang out.


B

OK, there are a lot smarter people around here than me on clutches. But, let me throw my 2 cents in. Maybe I'm lazy, but I hate the long threaded cable end. I put a sleeve on the thing before the two nuts go on. That way I can adjust the clutch cable all the way down past when it starts to slip if I want to. But the main reason is to save my fingers twisting the damn nuts on.

Secondly, if the operation of the clutch arm is is the opening and not hitting either end, I see no need for the washer or the dime. I found, however, that I did need one washer to establish the operation in the center of the opening. I was still close to the end of the threads on final adjustment. I have lots of adjustment left with the sleeve, and fingers that are not sore.

Yes. Some of the headers out there make it difficult to adjust the cable...so I also run a spacer.

Honestly... if I have to run a huge spacer.. I start looking around trying to figure out WHY I need the spacer. 99% of the time I find the the problem and correct the actual issue.


B

Guess I'll try a spacer. Car is quite driveable the way it is, just want to grease up the shifting in order to improve my lap times (plenty of additional things to tweak there!).