Bottom line quick version- Up for sale is a 73 914. Car setup for auto x. Body is good but not excellent condition. No major known rust issues (details below). Engine is out of car. Short block is built. I do not have a good set of heads. Very nice looking car, very few cars are more fun to drive. Lots of freebies. If you want a car that is turn key- this is not your car. If you want a car that has most of the stuff done but you just need to finish the project- this is your car. Should be an extremely fun auto x car.
Extra wordy version-
Up for sale is my beloved 1973 Porsche 914. I have owned the car since 2006. I was in the process of rebuilding the car. It had been difficult for me to work on the car because I was too busy. About 4 months ago, I had another child and now it is almost impossible for me do get anything done with the car. I absolutely love the car however I simply do not have the time. I am trying to make the description as honest and detailed as I can. If you have any questions, please let me know. I know a lot about many parts of the car and some parts, I know very little since they were put in by the previous owner (P.O.).
General-
1973 Porsche 914 originally 1.7l
Engine is out of the car, I was in the middle of rebuilding the car. The thing that held me up was the cylinder heads. I have pretty much all of the parts however I do not have heads that I was happy with. Will do into details in the engine section.
I purchased the car from a guy in San Diego and had it shipped to Ohio. Since I have owner it, it has always been garaged. During my ownership, it has never seen rain, snow, etc. The previous owner owned it for a few years, he purchased it from a guy in Phoenix. I believe the P.O. stated that this was originally a California car. When I first was interested in the car, the P.O. told me that it was a “ten footer” meaning that it looked great from 10 ft any closer and you could see some imperfections. This is not the original paint. I think the car looks great however it seems like a medium quality paint job. My original purpose (and the past two P.O.’s) was autocross so paint was not overly important.
I am not exactly sure how to address the rust question because I have seen a million posts that say “the guy said there was no rust and when I got it home, there was rust everywhere”. I am no expert and if there are any specific pictures that anyone wants, please let me know- the only rust that I am aware of is that there is slight paint bubbling near the windshield, passenger side. I do not want to say there is no rust (other than what I mentioned) but I am not aware of any rust. If you want me to take pics of specific locations, please let me know.
Engine-
short block assembled
78mm counter weighted crankshaft (about 200miles on crankshaft)
All new bearings
5.4inch Connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts (new)
Universal case
Freshly tapped/plugged oil galleys
96mm KB pistons for stroker crank (about 200 miles on pistons)
Hastings rings (200 miles)
New 96mm Cylinder jugs from European motor works (high quality in my opinion).
Scat c45 camshaft- new
Scat Dual valve springs- new
Scat cro-mo retainers/keepers- new
I have various pushrods- most uncut- not sure if I have one full set
I do not have the lifters
Dual Weber 44 IDF carbs- I have not used these yet
Bellcrank carb linkage- csp style
New 2.0l intake and exhaust valves
External oil cooler via sandwich plate adapter
MSD 6al Ignition
MSD Coil
Bosch 050 with pertronix (generic)
High torque starter
Magnecor 8mm Spark Plug wires
Tuna Can Sump
Note- this is the main reason that I do not have a set of heads that is perfect- this is why I am not currently driving the car. I have several set of heads that you can have however they all have their special problems. I have one set of 1.8l heads that have had the valve guide bosses trimmed for dual valve springs however there are several cracks around the valve seats. I have a few (2-4?) 2.0l head however they all have their special issues (I think there may be one good head but it need rebuilding).
Transmission-
Side shift transmission. 6 spring clutch disk with about 200 miles.
Shift bushings are all fairly new
Short shift kit
Suspension-
Rear Koni adjustable
180lb? Springs
Front?
The car is pretty squeaky over bumps. I was told the P.O. had polyurathane bushings that needed lubed? Not sure but I thought it added to the fun.
Wheels-
I have two sets
One set is a fake set of 2.0l fuchs- black and silver
One set of real 2.0l fuchs- black is chipped off so they are all silver- needs polished (if you care)
The set of real fuchs has a set of Avon slicks from tire rack. The slicks are unused- have been in my garage for 2.5 years
Interior-
The carpet and just about everything is stripped- it is painted with black truck bed liner. Two Corbeau Forza Seats.
Momo steering wheel
Steering wheel quick release
No radio, no ac, no nothing- just a bunch of gauges (its purpose is for autox and street driving- not comfort)
Front Trunk-
The battery has been relocated to the front trunk. For some reason the P.O. cut out the floor in the front trunk. I suspect he was going to put a oil cooler up there then changed his mind. It can be replaced but it never bothered me so I left it alone.
The fuel pump has been relocated to the front- below the fuel tank.
Body-
Front and rear fiberglass bumpers.
Yellow fog lights are not hooked up
No horn
NO major dents
I am only aware of the one rust bubble that I mentioned above- it has not changed in the 5 years that I have had it
Fiberglass rear spoiler
Paint chips here and there- worst on the very front edge of the front hood. Nor horrible bad but annoying for someone who really cares about that stuff
Fine scratches here and there
I do not have the keys to the doors
Passenger side rear view mirror is cracked
Brakes-
When I first purchased the car, the brakes seemed fine. When I decided to rebuild the engine, I thought I would upgrade the front brakes to BMW brakes, vented rotors and rear EBC green pads. I have never been happy with the change. I feel that the front brakes must be changed back to stock brakes before driving. My friend installed them and I do not think that they are correct. It may be a bleeding issue however considering how important brakes are- I am saying that the front brakes must be replaced before driving (I do not have the original brakes).
Freebies-
Innovate air fuel meter
Syncometer
Various tools- clutch alignment tool, distributor puller…
Engine Test stand with tachometer- you will need to finish wiring
Various extra parts
Two sets of wheels (mentioned above) one with new racing slicks
Several cylinder heads all with their unique problems
Price- $5555obo
I really love this car but I just don’t have the time to get it going. I really don’t have the room to keep it around several more years until I can get it going. Good frames (see above- this is just my opinion) are hard to find. Getting all the parts that I have gotten together is very expensive. If the right person comes along to buy the car, great- if not, great. I want to get this car to a good new home however if things don’t work out, I’ll just keep it.
Location-
Plain City, Ohio
Picture note- sorry about all of the pictures of my kid. I have the car on roller in the corner of my garage so I cannot take any pictures that really represent the car right now. All of the pictures are what the car currently looks like except the one racing picture- that is from 2006. Also, please note that I do have the passenger seat, I just haven’t remounted yet. The 5 point harnesses are not made by sabelt- that is just a belt pad. As I previously mentioned, the engine is not in the car. The picture of the engine was just for reference (the carbs are weber 40 if’s).
PLEASE CONTACT ME AT TORNIK550@HOTMAIL.COM IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, WANT MORE PICS (ONLY IF SERIOUS) OR WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE CAR.