I am driving from Chicago to Reno today. I did 22 hours in the seat and I have 700 miles to go!

I am having some cooling issues. I feel I am running hotter than I used to. I did have a lean running condition and I think I am out of the woods on this one. I installed an AFM meter. I had to boost the fuel pressure to get to 13.9 to 14.4.

The other thing I did was I used Brad Penn 20 W 50 oil. I was running Royal Purple 10 w 40. I used the Brad Penn because it was available and this oil is supposed to be the oil to use (but maybe not the viscosity) Could this be causing a heating problem? I think an external oil cooler may be in my future. FWIW, I was near the red in the early morning cool hours pushing 70. Once I got to west Nebraska and Wyoming, the heat became a real issue.

I plan on Being in Reno for more than a week, anyone want to connect up. drop a pm. I would love to hear form anyone here

I think your a little on the lean side still. I shoot for 13 to 13.5.

I need to adjust the MPS. Fuel pressure is maxed out. I have on with me for this purpose but I need a 7mm star wrench with a hole in the middle. Everything else is fine and the correct part number. Valves, timing, correct injectors, correct distributor etc . The MPS is not leaking and has not been worked on. But I feel pretty sure this is the culprit

What year 914 and what engine are you running?

the engine is a 2.0 out of a 76. All D-jet components are for a 74

You really got problems if your fuel pressure is maxed out and your still at 14-1.

You could always unplug your air temp sender in the intake to richen up the mix till you finish your trip.

I would love to see if the temps came back down a little if you used the -40 oil. I have wondered if the higher viscosity oil could actually make a little more oil flow bypass the cooler and end up with a higher net engine temperature. The cooler bypass valve is opened by higher pressure, so in theory a little higher viscosity oil may make the engine run a little hotter to in effect reduce the pressure by thinning the oil our. Of course this depends on the actual design and condition of the bypass valve. JoeO

Sounds lean...
Brad Penn dies typically run hotter, it has poor thermal conductivity.. That was the main reason that I pushed to finish our snake oil in 2009.

But remember, hot oil is just that- it's not engine temperature. How hot are your cylinder heads?? Hot oil doesn't crack heads or drop valves~

Does the engine ping at all?
what is the engine timed at? I should be at 28 degree BTDC at 3500rpms hoses off and plugged..
13-5-14 to one is fine so then what is your fuel pressure now set at?
What MPS are you running? with a 74 Djet you should have a 044 ECU running a 043 MPS.
Oil temps are high so how high is high?

Hi All.

Well I made here. Damn is it hot here! I drove from Wyoming past Salt Lake into Reno. The car really runs pretty good considering. It starts when cold and runs better than ever. Transition to full throttle is nice and smooth. The temps come up gradually. When I run at 70 going up hills the temps rise. I am about a 1/4 to 1/8 of touching the red. The "P" in temp is almost uncovered. I never hit the red. I made sure I slowed and the temps stayed below red. I did a lot of 60 t0 65 in a 75 zone. Bummer.

The fuel pressure was bumped up a little at a time. Each move helped. I started at 16/1 or even higher. I did get it down to 13.7 but later it crept up to low to mid 14's May be due to altitude? I don't know. Fuel is 36 PSI.

I have set up the D-jet to 74. I am pretty sure all my components are the correct ones. I think the MPS is 037 not a 044. Maybe I got confused. I will look again. I do have a 044. It runs so rich I can't use it. (with 29 PSI fuel pressure). I was planning on making ajustments while I am here. I will be here several days. I need the 7mm star wrench with a hole in the middle. I am not confident I will find one.

I someone here in Reno has a MPS, Please call me 847 612-2967. Hell call anyway. Love to meet up with 914 friends anytime. Staying at the Grand Sierra

check with EBS in Sparks.

royal purple oil is a synthetic and does have good zinc levels
(the race version does)

I would prefer it to the brad penn which is not a true synthetic

your much too lean at 16:1
you've got something funny going on. Either your MPS is wrong or something else is playing havoc with your system

brant

I was 16/1 I am lower more like 14.2 I was down to 13.7. I am curently at 5,000'. I think this is making me leaner. I must say that my car really feels nice. It has never run so smooth. I see no difference from cold to warm. It just starts and goes. I know I am getting close. I just wish I didn't need such high FP to get here.

I rechecked my MPS And ECU. Runing 044 and 043 combination. I am not sure why the mps would be off the way it is. It seems to be off in a linear fashion. Maybe the aneroid cells inside collapsed. Maybe my car is weak in vacuum. This I have not checked. I am pretty sure I do not have a leak. There is no hunting at idle.

Reno is pretty nice. Pleasant day here.

Who (or What)is EBS in Sparks?

Going up in elevation would make you richer. You will get leaner as you desend down into thicker air.

I was thinking Vaccum leak. Could be heat related leak. Just to be sure pick up a cheap vaccum gauge.

Engine Builder's Supply (or EBS Racing) in Sparks, NV. Evidently a suburb of Reno.

http://www.ebsracing.com/

--DD

"Reno is so close to Hell, you can see Sparks ..."

Sparks is a little NorthEast of Reno proper, but it's more of a gentle transition than a completely separate community.

Been to EBS many times. Jon and his crew do a good job. Big supporters of the Sierra Nevada Region PCA, at least when I was there...

how is your timing? might be off after a long run and may contribute to your hot running conditions.
Consider also, remove the plastic tray under the engine lid...might give you back a few degrees.

I drove with my decklid open one hot summer day coming back from PA through NYC traffic....that did the trick....just a bit more air was all it needed.

RIch

I took out the rain tray. This made a big enough difference to get me here.

I will re check my timing.

I got some 10 w 30 Royal Purple. I will change it out tomorrow.

I thought the altitude would make me rich also. Speaking with my customer who is a big bike fan, he said the altitude here also made him lean and had to richen up. He also said when he would go to Oregon he needed to lean out. His thoughts were the humidity was the difference.

All in all, I still have time. I will be here another week. I want to try one thing at a time. In the morning I will disconnect the air temperature sensor. In the evening I will change the oil. Still need a vacuum gauge.

do you have stock heat exchangers? are the heat ducting hooked up still? lower cooling air guide tins still in place?

I have fully functional SSI heat exchangers. All cooling tins are in place.

10w30 is WAY too thin. WAY. 20w50's the proper viscosity for your engine and the ambient temps.

The Cap'n

The Cap'n

Cap'n I am glad to see you post that.. Perhaps the Parrots will now go roost...

I agree, I run 20w50 in the summer and 10w 30 in the winter...but I dont really drive the car in the winter anymore...so I leave it alone now.

10w30 does get to thin in the summer for these cars.

Rich

Damn! Now I am not so sure what to do. For sure, my car runs hotter than it used to. I put a lot of miles on this car this year, 5K before May and I never ran so hot. Today I did some errands and the gauge went somewhat high pretty early. The "P" in temp was covered. This is not too hot! but it got there a little too fast for a 15 minute run in somewhat cool air temperatures. I have made component changes since May. I installed the correct distributor and the correct injectors. The rest is the same. Both changes made the car run nicer. This is why I was thinking the problem is the oil. That is the biggest and newest change. I never ran the brad penn 50W oil before. Maybe I will take the 30W oil back for 40W.

get 20w50 oil...
The temp gauge you are reading is the oil temp guage, not the engine temp gauge (there is not one) nor the head temp gauge.

Its an oil temp gauge so it will read high if you run the wrong oil and it will get there faster if you use the 30 weight oil.

20w50 is at most parts stores.

I know that I am measuring the oil temperature. I don't have a cylinder head temperature gauge.

I am running 20w 50 oil It is Brad Penn

oh, I thought you said you had 10w30 in there now.
I get it....

Well, go get more 20w50..

And take a look at your timing...you could have adjusted that to much advanced and that will heat it up fast...even a few degrees advanced will do it.

Rich

Sounds like changing the dizzy is your problem. Re time the engine to 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpms with hoses off and plugged. Advance timing will heat up the engine.

Good luck with your temp concerns.. and congrats on your short trip

Thanks for all the replies. The input was helpful. Removing TS2 did more than I expected. I was Reno 2 weeks. I had a great time. I also spent the weekend in Tahoe with my wife as she flew out to meet me. I did not change the oil but I am still suspecting this added to the heat. I ran back to Chicago over the weekend. I left Friday night and made it home midnight Sunday. That is 1920 miles in 2 days. Wyoming and Nebraska were hot. My temperature was about 1/4 to 1/2" from the red and stable. AFR around 13.5. I still have some work to figure out what is wrong. I don't like the FP so high. Something is wrong. No time to play. I am off to Cincinnati.

Get a real gauge with incremental values. No one knows what "red" is.
AND the gauges are slower than christmas to respond to changes in temp.