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Scott S
I am in an electrical quandary. First of all, electrical stuff scares the crap out of me - I would rather get in a bar fight.

I am looking for two keyed power sources – one in the engine compartment and one in the front trunk. I am moving my fuel pump up to the nose of the car. Previously it was getting power from the (+) side of the coil – a big no no done by the PO. I was instructed by Andy how to fix it at the relay board. Driving the car as little as I have in the past couple of years, I never got around to the fix. Now, because of the -6 conversion, I have removed the relay board – so I am stumped on where to go. I also need a switched source for the MSD that is in the engine compartment (it was using the same fuel pump lead before I knew this was wrong).

Can anyone kick me in the right direction on where to grab power?

Thanks a million…
beerchug.gif
ArtechnikA
QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Jul 11 2011, 03:45 PM) *

I am looking for two keyed power sources – one in the engine compartment and one in the front trunk. I am moving my fuel pump up to the nose of the car. Previously it was getting power from the (+) side of the coil – a big no no done by the PO. I was instructed by Andy how to fix it at the relay board. Driving the car as little as I have in the past couple of years, I never got around to the fix. Now, because of the -6 conversion, I have removed the relay board – so I am stumped on where to go. I also need a switched source for the MSD that is in the engine compartment (it was using the same fuel pump lead before I knew this was wrong).

I did a front-trunk fuel pump but it was a long time ago.
But if the function of the fuses does not make it clear which are switched, a manual will. You just need to find a switched circuit and run the lead to the pump from the UNFUSED (i.e. supply) side of the fuse panel. Make sure you run your own fuse in that line - as close to the fuse box as possible.

It is OK to use the old coil +12 (Terminal 15) to _switch_ the MSD. It isn't doing anything else now anyway. What you can't do is _power_ the MSD from that - not enough current. run the BIG red MSD lead directly to the battery or another low-impedance source. In my 911 the battery is in the front so I ran a 6-ga wire to the starter terminal. In the 914, the battery is right there where it's handy - unless you've relocated the battery ...
Scott S
Thanks Rich!!!
stugray
Scott,

We are very close by. I am in Longmont building my 914 racecar ( its on jackstands in the garage ;-)

I am an EE, so I can help out if you would like to stop by.
I just need more details and I am doing the exact same thing right now for my dual webers.

Stu
Prospectfarms
QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Jul 11 2011, 03:45 PM) *

I am in an electrical quandary. First of all, electrical stuff scares the crap out of me - I would rather get in a bar fight.

I am looking for two keyed power sources – one in the engine compartment and one in the front trunk. I am moving my fuel pump up to the nose of the car. Previously it was getting power from the (+) side of the coil – a big no no done by the PO. I was instructed by Andy how to fix it at the relay board. Driving the car as little as I have in the past couple of years, I never got around to the fix. Now, because of the -6 conversion, I have removed the relay board – so I am stumped on where to go. I also need a switched source for the MSD that is in the engine compartment (it was using the same fuel pump lead before I knew this was wrong).

Can anyone kick me in the right direction on where to grab power?

Thanks a million…
beerchug.gif



For keyed power in the engine compartment I would look to one of the leads to the 14 pin harness that you disconnected when you removed the relay board. Several likely candidates there: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

Pelican Parts Tech articles: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...mp_relocate.htm
describes one method of bringing power to a relocated fuel pump; however that wire is energized by the relay panel you removed. In the wire loom for the headlights and turn signals there is (on my 72) a nice heavy red wire that is switched by the ignition. I don't know whether it can handle what you have in mind, though.
Scott S
Wow Stu - That would be fantastic. Unfortunately my car is down in mid/south denver (Evans and Quebec area) and all pulled apart. I may have to think of a good bribe to throw your way once everything is together. I am praying to be done by Christmas.
Either way, I would love to see your car. Brant is up your way as well, and Ferg is just up the street too.

Again, thanks a ton for the offer - definitely will keep in touch!
stugray
Brant is only about two blocks from me.

He has been over for a couple of consults and parts trading.
I am building the car so that I will race in RMVR with him some day.

Havent had the pleasure of meeting Ferg yet.

Once I figure out where to wire my pump in I'll let you know.
However I plan on just putting switches on the dash for fuel pump & ignition since it is a racecar and I dont even have the ignition switch anymore.

I could run the pump from the original plug in the rear as I still have my relay board, but havent decided yet.

Stu
76-914
lol-2.gif happy11.gif av-943.gif I laugh my ass off every time I read your topic name. Hell, everybody here with the exception of 8 or 9 people feel like Electrical Ediots.
SirAndy
QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Jul 11 2011, 12:45 PM) *
I would rather get in a bar fight.

We need to hang out more! w00t.gif
Scott S
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jul 11 2011, 03:43 PM) *

QUOTE(Scott Schroeder @ Jul 11 2011, 12:45 PM) *
I would rather get in a bar fight.

We need to hang out more! w00t.gif


Anytime my freind - I got yer back. stick.gif chair.gif

- although, a certain country song just popped into my head as I wrote this... " I'm not as good as I once was...." slap.gif

So, I went over to Jeff B's site. He has some amaizing stuff out there (thanks Jeff). It looks like fuse #8 should work for the front (fuel pump), and pin number 13 on the 14 pin connector should work for the rear (MSD).

I will put up a post before I hook these up so you all can watch the news or look toward Colorado for mass quantitites of smoke..........
Cap'n Krusty
I don't understand why people remove the relay board when doing a 6 conversion. Just complicates what should be a VERY simple hookup.

The Cap'n
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Jul 11 2011, 01:09 PM) *
... run the lead to the pump from the UNFUSED (i.e. supply) side of the fuse panel.


Why unfused? Is that because the pump will draw more than the fuse can handle? (How much does the pump draw anyway?)

Fuses usually are a good idea, if they're properly sized.

--DD
ArtechnikA
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 12 2011, 12:55 PM) *

Why unfused? Is that because the pump will draw more than the fuse can handle? (How much does the pump draw anyway?)
Fuses usually are a good idea, if they're properly sized.

it is because 1) I figure the circuits are already fused for the current they are designed to draw and 2) this way you don't have to spend so much time playing Failure Modes and Effects Analysis deciding the likilihood of ancillary systems blowing fuses and disabling the car.

If you read my full post, you'll see that in the very next breath I say 'connect a wire _with an inline fuse_ ..."

Although if it were me, I'd go buy an aircraft circuit breaker from Wickes or Aircraft Spruce. A little more pricey, but you never have to worry about being stuck due to not having the right fuse, and as an added bonus, you can manually pull the breaker as an anti-theft device...
Spoke
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 12 2011, 12:55 PM) *

Fuses usually are a good idea, if they're properly sized.


All electrical components should be fused. If a fuse isn't in the line, then the wire becomes the fuse and will melt its insulator requiring a rewire of the car.

All autos today have fusible links at the battery so that if something really goes wrong in the electrical system, the link will blow protecting the wire bundle. The link is only on the accessory side; the wire to the starter is straight through as the link couldn't handle the starter current.

The 914 does not have a fusible link. The wires at the fuse block come straight from the battery. If one accidentally shorts one of these wires to ground, the wire will melt.
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Jul 12 2011, 10:30 AM) *

If you read my full post, you'll see that in the very next breath I say 'connect a wire _with an inline fuse_ ..."


Damn. Sorry about that, Rich. The "unfused" remark must have caught my attention to the point where I skipped over the next sentence. sad.gif

I was also thinking of how there is a fair bit of wire in the 914 that is not fused; we've seen a couple of melt-downs recently in part due to that. Which Spoke also alluded to.

--DD
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