It had to the be studs where the HE bend is. The replacement bolt and screw is just too close to the heat exchnager pipe. It was ok when the previouse owner just had stock HE. But the SS HE are bigger and I cannot get a socket around the replacement nut.

Whats my options ? Hope and try to locate smaller nut at local Home Depot or McMaster

I even thought about taking the HE to someone to heat it up and make a slight indention in it to give me more room.

Am I screwed. Any thoughts.

Thanks so much.

Ted

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I bought step studs recently from a Boston company 10->8 and 9->8mm also. Easiest.

I actually read your post, I have a 1/4" drive craftsman 13mm that i ground down to a taper especially for exhaust stud bolts.

Get some 911 exhaust nuts. They are internal wrenching (meaning they use an allen wrench). A long reach 8mm allen socket will make easy work of that.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._pg4.htm#item21

Here's the part #999-085-001-02-M260

Is your stud still a 8mm? Nuts with a 12mm head are available. I don't have a recent purchase to go by for a vendor, but I've used 'em on my car. Mike

Hmm. I like that idea. Unfortunately the PO changed the stud. I wonder if I can get the right pitch and size for my bolt from Mcmaster.

Thank you for tip !

I dont think still 8mm, maybe 9 or 10 mm, increased slightly. I think it got stripped out or something from PO. Nuts with head ??? Never seen that before. Have any pic.

Thanks in advance!!

He's just saying that the nut takes a 12mm wrench instead of 13mm. That's the ISO standard for M8 fasteners that most Japanese cars use, BTW.

A bolt is probably not a good idea. The length would be very critical, and it'll be tough to start I think.

Get a step stud that's the right size on the one end and regular M8 on the other end. Available from lots of VW places. Or get the 911 exhaust nuts as HAM suggested. The Allen wrench doesn't need external clearance.

--DD

The nut head is 14mm. So I dont think the 911 exhaust would work, unless 911 nuts are 14mm also. I am worried about removing the stud for step studs and screw the threads even more. Ahh the joys of old cars. I guess I can try turning a socket down and pray it will work.

Get the stud out and use a bolt with a allen head ...

I suppose that is possible route. What should I look for or more like how can I make sure when I remove the stud I dont mess up the prior repair on the threads. Geez that sucks. I had the entire engine out just to remove a strip engine mount bolt, took forever to get it back in and now this . FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF

Thanks Andy.

First - the size of the head is not important.
What we need to know to help you is _what size is the stud_ ?
You have a nut that fits the stud, yes? What size and pitch bolt fits that?
This:
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is a 911 exhaust port nut. I think you were missing the essential point that it is an _internal wrenching_ nut. You might have to run a washer or two under because you only get just so much travel before the end of the stud pokes into where the Allen wrench goes. But something like this would be the hot setup...

If the stud is 10mm, you can use a 911 cylinder head barrel nut. Same principle, in 10mm

Subarus use 10mm exhaust studs and use a nice flanged nut with 12mm flats.

9mm nuts (requiring a 14mm socket) are very uncommon. If it does indeed take a 9/16 socket then the PO likely installed a 3/8" stud, the nuts for which require a 9/16 socket (virtually interchangeable with 14mm).

Internal wrenching nuts are available for 3/8" studs. McMaster-Carr probably has them. I'm pretty sure MSC has them. If not a google search will turn them up.

Though you would have to drop that side's exhaust, you should be able to effect the repair with the engine in the car.

If the stud is in fact an 8mm one, simply use the barrel nut from the 911. If it was tapped to a larger size, a stepped stud is the way to go.

I've always found that, if in doubt, McMaster-Carr is your friend when you need to find some really obscure piece of hardware.

If the stud is in securely I wouldn't fool with it. Pulling the stud can open a can of worms you would rather keep closed.

The chances are very good that you can find an internal wrenching nut that will take care of the problem. You just need to determine what threads you have.

So I went to local OSH and figured the stud is 3/8-16. So its standard. I found this at Mcmastercarr ad I think it will solve my problems. It is triple square head. But I will take it. Would been nice if regular hex.

Question is should I buy stainless steel or steel ones ?? Which one is better for the heat application.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#allen-nuts/=dbh5gb

TIA

Ted

The alloy steel will be fine, and they are cheaper. Just slather it liberally with anti-seize,which you need to do with any ex suds/nuts and any nut material.

Thanks HAM !!

So the good news I found the allen nut and was able to tighten the HE. I had to buy 1/4" drive 3/8 allen socket. It was tight but I was able to tighten it down. Here is a pic. I'll start another post of another bad news.

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