Had to create the transition from the driver's door threshold to the striker plate as well as the leading edge of the front fender. I didn't realize that latter portion was nothing but braze and bondo until I started grinding the paint back to get my cut lines.

The lower section of the rear fender (directly under the sail) is still free from the car. I screwed and clamped it in place while I made the pieces pictured. Once it's welded back onto the car, I am going to have very limited access to the back side of the repairs.

What I WANT to do is treat/seal the back side of the repair which will be the most prone to be hit with moisture/debris from the tire.

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That said, here's my issue:

I do not yet own a paint gun, nor epoxy primer. I'm going to Ospho the back side of this area and then I hoped to prime, seam seal, and undercoat it (do not care about not having body color back there--just want "tough") with the fender still unattached to the car.

I know it's frowned upon but is there something in a rattle or brushable product I could treat the area with to make it impervious to the elememts later?

Rust-oleum and por 15 can be applied with a paint brush.


Also harbor freight has paint guns for $15-30. Get a 1.8 tip gun.

Will rubberized undercoating stick to POR15? I applied some POR to other (exposed) fresh metal repairs after proper prep...and it still seems iron-clad with the texture/gloss of my Maytag washer.

You need to make friends with the local body shop supply store counter guy.

Yes.

Rubberized undercoating will stick to anything.... Just about...

If your worried, spray some aerosol primer down prior to the undercoating.

Just treat that metal or else the rust will come back.

Whatever you do, don't put POR15 over bare metal. It will rust. BTDT.

Stay away from POR, and the such. A good primer/paint/undercoating system will more than do the job.

Your repairs look great!

Our projects appear similar in scope. I will probably get torched for this, but I have been using Eastwood products in "blind" areas over bare metal. Specifically, "Rust Encapsulator" in an rattle can. On areas directly exposed to the elements (fender wells, etc.), I use rattle can rubberized undercoating over top of the encapsulator. However, I can not speak to the longevity of this method over the long haul, as the car remains on jack stands.

http://www.eastwood.com/

Clean anything you can reach with a wire brush, use Metal Ready, Ospo or what ever you have to convert anything you can and can't reach. Then you can apply a self etching primer from a rattle can. It has acid in it and creates a chemical bond. The rattle can stuff It not the best product but for the hobbiest it works fine. Then go to the auto body supply store and get brushable seam sealer. The stuff stinks like glue and is thick. Cover all the seams and weld seams you can reach. Then cover the seam sealer and any bear self etching primer with some type of paint that will aid in water proofing the work. Any rattle can gloss enamel will work these days. Then use rubberized under coating over the entire repair to prevent rock chips. Be sure to let everything dry before the next step.

POR= paint over rust. It does not bond well to clean metel. It relies on the conversion of the rust to stick.

Unfortunately, that doesn't work either. Putting POR15 over rust will *not* stop the rust. BTDT.

Thanks, Rick (and everybody else). I was really hoping to hear something like that--protection I could manage on a small scale until ready to paint larger sections. The tight confines of the little space make it tough even if I wanted to do it the "right way".

The jackpost and wheelhouse you can kind of see in the pics are all new metal and I treated them some time ago with the 3 steps the POR instructions stated (degrease, metal-ready, POR). They aren't directly in UV and the plan was to undercoat those areas as well before the car hits the road.