Michel: Been a long time since I tole you any lies.
I've never dealt with MFI (no lie), but the routine *should be* about the same.
Disconnect the down link to the drivers side linkage.
The drill is :end to end, side to side.
With the motor running around 1500-2000 rpms, check all holes. Select the most flow on one side (I do the pass side first) and bring the other 2 holes(on a 6), on that side only, up to that reading.
The books are pretty clear on how to do this, so I'll not go into this. I'll also pass on the fuel metering screws...except to say, do this first.
If you've done the fuel metering screw screws properly, the air bleed screw's adjustments should be minimal.
Do the same on the driver side....ignoring the pass side readings, for the moment.
Now you have end to end.
Using the idle adjust screw (the one that opens/closes the butterflies)on the driver side, adjust as required to bring the flow on both sides
even.
Loosen the double ball down link lock nuts. This goodie will expand or contract as you turn the shaft.
Adjust it to reconnect the linkage (this gets you close). Back off the idle screw on the drivers side....take a reading on them....expand or contract the down link as needed to make the reading the same as on the pass side. Tighten the lock nuts....Bingo, side to side. I let the whole linkage "rest" on the pass side idle screw.
Back it off to bring the idle down to spec, making sure there is clearance on the drivers side idle screw.
On my car, the throttle pedal vs pushing the linkage by hand make for different readings on the side to side thingy so check both ways. If there is a difference....use the throttle pedal and adjust to that.
As you can tell, this can take *some* screwing around, but IMO, most carb running problems
(assuming all else is well) are syncronization caused.
I set mine (as well as I could) about 2 years ago and haven't touched it since....I do check, however.
I proly left out somethin' out, but I'm tired of typin'.