1911cc, 40IDFs, 1974 1.8 model

Heres the deal. I replaced my old engine with a newly rebuilt 1911, but it still had the same problem as before. In 4th or 5th gear when I would get up to aroud 4k rpm or so it would lose power and slow to around 3k and not want to get going at full power until I slow down quite a bit or stop, and then only if I really get on the gas. So I figured it has to be one of the components I used from my old engine, which would be the distributor, coil, alternator, impeller housing, carburetors, exhaust, or fuel pump.

I doubt that it's the carbs, as they were sctually set up right for the first time during the install, probably not the impeller housing or the fan itself (has all teeth), the exhaust is much better than before even though there is a slight tick (but it goes away when this occurs, making me think it's ignition related), and yesterday the fuel pump was working (not sure about it now). I asked Dr. 914, he said to set the dwell angle (points).

So, yesterday I crank the car to move it into the shade without any issue, I change the plug wires and start working towards replacing the points, but I was having trouble getting the engine turned over with the tools we have at the mortuary so I figure I'll just drive it home and do it there, wouldn't crank. Tried the old plug wires and no cranking occured, but I could smell gas so the fuel pump was working.
I left and went back today, changed the points, distributor cap, condenser, put the new wires back on and it still wont crank, It will turn over but not crank up, and I can't smell any gas.

Would a failing fuel pump cause the issue stated above, or the coil, or maybe the distributor itself. Tomorrow I'l be going back to change the fuel pump, and if I can find a coil on sunday (would one go bad sitting on an engine in a barn for a year and a half ?) I'll change that also. I can probably find a bosch blue at the FLAPS.

Any other ideas?

009 distrubutor... Black coil.

Make sure there is power to the coil.You may have a bad connection on the relay board. When Al and I try to start it we found that the connectors on the relay board
were bad from cleaning them with the pressure washer. PM me if you are still having trouble.

Good idea, I'll check that next.

The weird thing is that it stopped cranking after I changed the plug wires for some reason???

and I don't doubt that the running issue may be the points, they were pitted.

You must be getting gas cause you can smell it. Like already said, make sure the coil is firing, then check for fire at the plugs. Fire, fuel, and air. It will run.

Personally, I would never high pressure wash the engine bay. Too many nooks and crannies, and 40 year old electrical connections to be doused with massive amounts of water.

I don't smell gas when I try to crank it anymore either...
or hear the pump working.


After two edits of this post...

That would make sense, the fuel pump is wired to the positive side of the coil.

Just to clarify, when you say cranking, your talking about it not starting, right?

Yes, it turns over but will not start.

This sounds like a good place to start, my dad has volunteered to help with it tomorrow, and he's good at checking electrical stuff.

Pull the coil wire off the cap,and ground it while someone is turning the key to the start position. Then repeat at the end of the plug wire. It should give a nice brite blue spark

I thought about that, but I've been working by myself.

Where would we use a voltmeter to test at the relay board?

You have tools at the mortuary?

Call me at 404-797-0984 I will talk you throught it.

Not many, for fixing little things around the business. I did actually try using an aneurysm hook to get at the screw for the condensor, didn't work.


Will do, tomorrow morning (not to early).

Any time after 9 will do.

It sounds fuel related to me, starving @ higher rpm. I dont see electrical as a primary issue from the symptoms you described.

Can you put a visable fuel gauge on and watch it under a load?

I don't know... can I?

So I talked everything through with Larry, and it cranks right up on the first turn of the engine! Thanks Larry!
It will idle fine, but runs very rough. The hot wire was off of the positive side of the coil, which probably happened while changing the plug wires. And the points were up againt the wall of the distributor which grounded them, not something I've ever really thought about happening before.

It is still the issue that I mentioned above, but I'm not sure if I have said that it got much worse the other day. Used to be that it would lose power at higher speeds, but now it does is most of the time. After a stop I have to work the gas pedal to get the engine going fast enough to take off, and if I really floor it it runs alright for a few seconds before stuttering and losing power.
I was doing alright until I had to take my mom back and forth to work in the 95 degree heat two hours drives each, since then it has been pretty bad.

My fuel pump is mounted in the engine compartment about half way up the inside wall by the battery, it has been suggested that I should at least move it down to where it is level with the fuel line coming into the engine bay. Or should I go ahead and just get a relocation kit?

Just relocated the fuel pump lower for now and see if it runs better. This is the fasted way to prove it a fuel pump problem.
In the long run it best to move it up front so it pushes the fuel to the engine.

Kevin, we told you to move the fuel pump 2 weeks ago! Look at all the stuff you've done since then, all the questions you've asked and the pump is still in the wrong place! Put the computer away and move it!

I know, I'm not sure how much metal I have to attach it to down there.
And I've been trying not to drive it too much for now, I'm leaving it at work most of the time so I haven't had the opportunity to move it yet.
If it looks like I can't mount it further down in the engine bay I'll go for the relocation kit that moves it under the tank.

I went to AA and was in the process of buying a relocation kit when George walked up and we talked about it, he said just to set the dwell angle and that I didn't need the relocation kit on my car. I just changed the wear items for the ignition in hopes that would help, I almost had the kit.

Will do.