I posted a thread a while back regarding paint strippers. I've tried two so far which didn't work at all. Zinsser's most toxic sold at Sears and POR-Strip. Neither is cutting through the paint and primer on my yellow '74 I just started working on. I'm working on the engine bay which had a layer of cheap spray on undercoating (why do people do that?) then the original yellow and original primer. Both strippers get through the undercoat. Then I do another layer on the yellow which works only marginally on only some areas, then I have to do another layer on the primer which seams tougher then the yellow.

My question, is anyone using a product that can be bought today either at a retail store or even online that actually works? I envision brushing a layer of paint stripper on, watching it bubble up over 15-30 minutes and easily scrapping off everything down to the metal. One shot. Is it possible?

Aircraft Paint Stripper

I keep hearing about Aircraft Stripper. Does it REALLY work? I've already spent $30-$40 on paint strippers that didn't work. Have you used it recently? Everything these days is watered down and less effective.

Yes it works, so does BIX. Just don't get either anywhere near your skin... or fiberglass.

Good luck

Ayup, Aircraft Stripper.....
How's this grab ya?
AH....wear rubber gloves.

Yes it does. Coat it once, one direction. Dont brush it in, just brush it on in one stroke and move to the next line. Should take off 1-2 layers.

If you did it right it should look like this


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_DE96qt5CI

Beat ya with a better pic....he,he.

WOW! That's how I thought it should work. BUT, did you do that 7 + years ago? It seems everything I buy these days that USE to work doesn't seem as potent anymore. I don't want to beat a dead horse but at $60/gal I really need it to work.

Ha! That looks like a horror flick. Ok, I guess I'm ordering the Aircraft stripper. Thanks for the recommendation!

Describe how you are applying the stripper.

Are you brushing it back and forth in one stroke aka brushing it in, or just doing one gental stroke.

Well, yes, it was some time ago, but you can buy the stuff in small quanities at ACE Hardware for a few bucks & give it a shot. Follow Andrew's instructions.

I'm brushing it on in one direction, small area, and leaving it for 15-20 minutes (I've left it as long as over night too) I've never seen the paint bubble like I'm seeing here. I'm working on the firewall and wondering being its a vertical surface maybe I'm not brushing it on thick enough? It was roughly 85 and extremely humid in the garage last night.

I haven't tried Aircraft Strip. You can't get it anywhere around here. NJ. I just ordered a quart on ebay, mfr-Klean-Strip. Any suggestions on the application?

you can also place saran wrap over the area to trap the gasses and I have heard it is more powerful that way.

Rich

One direction is the way to go. Light touch, let the chemical do the work. When you go over your original brush you agrivate the chemical that is already penetrating the paint.
Pour it into a tin can and dip the brush in the can then coat the paint that way. Dont pour it onto the paint then spread it around (however the firewall is vertical so you probably cant do that anyways.

A thin coat should work better than a thick coat.

Read the directions carefully, but its basically just what I described above.

Great, thanks for the advise. Hopefully It will arrive sometime next week. I have a layer now of old dried stripper on the firewall. The paint didn't bubble at all. Do you think I should try to hose that off before trying the Aircraft Strip?

No need. Aircraft stripper does the job. You cannot let it dry though, the paint will just harden back up. Sometimes on single stage you may have to run some 40 grit over it first so the stripper can get underneath the paint. I have had several cars that aircraft stripper did nothing to until I did this. You can also use a putty knife turned on edge or a pocket knife. Just make sure you get some good gouges all over the panel of you have to go this route

That makes sense. Thanks again! I've had this car for 10 years, never ran. The wife gave me the ultimatum, get it running or get rid of it. I'll need to organize and post some pics to keep me motivated.

I used as thick a coat as would hold on a verticle surface. Scotty is right, you don't want it to get dry & a thick coat stays wet longer. Andrew is right about the non-aggitation. 20-30 minutes usually did the trick. I too would sometimes "key the paint" to get penetration on a difficult area. I had 5-6 repaints in places......bout .03-.04 thick in spots. *Keep the stuff away from lap seams.*
If it works its way into them you'll not find out till a year or 2 later.

Some of the paint was easier to remove.

You may as well get acquainted this these dubbers also. Say hello to "rice cakes" & air grinders. Don't scrape roughly to bare metal. Let the tools do the work.

Oh, BTW, enjoy.

For a blow by blow description look here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-aut...-we-got-em.html

Thanks. I recently became acquainted with the "rice cake" paint stripping pads. They definitely work better then any wire wheels I've tried, almost too good, as I get a lot of sparks. (I'm trying not to grind the metal). My dilemma is getting to all the nooks and crannys where I was hoping the stripper and a hand wire brush/scraper would do the trick.

No... they just get webcams and stay in their bedrooms all day.

(someone had to say it... you were all thinking it)

Ha! A woman on a game show once said, "I don't really care how or where my husband works up his appetite as long as he eats at home". My wife didn't agree with her so much.

Yep it does wonders. You can check my resto thread and see my hood .

You nailed it .

Those scotch brite pads come in sizes down to 1/2 inch. There are any number of wigets to get on edge with those seams.
I have 2 totes full of such tools left over from my stripping job.
A small selection.

Everytime I read the title.

Aircraft paint stripper from Kragen auto, Blue and white can. If the car has a clear coat on it I recommend scuffing it prior to your application. worked great for me 3 years ago.I used it on my 72

That is amazing! Thanks for the pic. I can't wait to get it now (ordered from Ebay).

They sell Aircraft Remover right in Walmart and Pep Boys here in my area. I used it and a putty knife to remove the paint and very heavy dose of carpet glue on areas of the interior of the car. Don't breathe the stuff.

WOW, Aircraft Paint Remover works great! I can't believe I spent so much $ on other strippers that don't work at all.

Problem though.....Does anyone know where I can buy it in northern New Jersey? I ordered a quart on Ebay, waited a week to get it and it cost twice as much due to shipping and now I realize I will need at least another gallon.

I've been calling around to Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot and Pep Boys but get the same clueless idiots on the phone. Such a waste of time calling any large stores in NJ for anything.

Found it! Went to Pep Boys for some brakleen and sure enough, they have Aircraft in quarts and gallons. When I called the store earlier the guy said he didn't carry it. figures.

Good to hear it worked out....now the work begins.
Be careful!. Wear throw-away clothes (including shoes), heavy rubber gloves, keep your work area well ventilated, face shield.....you'll know if some of it gets on your skin.

I hear ya. I was wearing shorts last night and a drip off the fire wall landed on my leg. Weird thing is it started burning so I whipped it off with a rag and was fine. Didn't bother me for the rest of the night. Woke up this morning with a first degree burn there. Good stuff!

Ok, I have experience with this aircraft stripper stuff!

Holy COW!

1 - it works like a charm
2 - DONT get any in your eye (says the one person who told everyone else to wear safety glasses then flicks one drop in his eye without glasses ;-)
3 - Nitrile gloves will NOT protect you.
The stripper ate through two sets of gloves last night in about 30 seconds each. My fingertips are numb now!

Stu

I did this to mine 4th of July weekend. Bought some for autobody applications,
ran out, went to local Ace got thier stuff for under 30 bucks. Worked just like
autobody stuff. I then took a da and massaged all the panels with 40 grit (lightly)
make it shiny, get any prior grinding, prior bodywork stripped off panels. Then masked
off and used dupont etch primer, then put a black guide over that. Then started
one panel at a time blocking with 150 finding all the high and low spots and hammered & dollied out as close to metal as possible, creamed the entire panel with mud, blocked & primed to 80 grit. And those sponge wheels work awesome
too !!! Have fun and take your time....I'm up to panel # 5 off 8 so far....whew !!!