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john rogers
I could not find the differences in weights, but I know someone must have a pretty close idea for these:

- Fiberglass doors, empty vs Two steel doors (73) with window mechanisms?

- Fiberglass hood, with headlight covering vs steel hood and two popup head light assemblies?

- Fiberglass trunk lid with pins vs steel trunk lid with hinges?

I already know the cost of the parts but I am curious how much weight I'd loose doing the above swaps? Thanks for the help.
machina
I asked the same question many months back and got many responses. You can search.

I don't remember all the weights now.

I think you can lose 100lb by going fg on the hood, trunk, bumpers (early) and doors.

I think a totally gutted steel door shell is about the same weight as a fg one. My drivers door is like that and it is like a feather.

dr
URY914
Doors: Late model doors with the beam in them with glass and everything is somewhere around 30 pounds.

A f/g door with the inner panel like GT Products sells is around 10 pounds.

The door skins that I make (and sell BTW) are 4 pounds.

Front hood: Stock is about 35 pounds with hinges and headlight covers. More when you remove all the headlight crap.

F/g hood is around 12-14 pounds

Read trunk lid: about 30 pounds.

F/g trunk would be 10-11

Also replace the roof with a lightweight piece and save another 10 pounds.

Paul
john rogers
Thanks for the help. As I expected the $$$$$ I would need to spend does not balance the gains from the weight that would be lost. I guess I will stay with the stock parts for now.
Qarl
Other things that that can make a difference...

Weight removal...

1. Rubber pad behind backpad in interior
2. Back pad removal
3. Engine side firewall
4. Tar on floors
5. Carpeting
6. Fiberglass bumpers vs stell and rubber and tits
7. fiberglass vs. steel rockers
8. Fiberglass vs. steel valences


Things that can add

Chassis stiffening kit plus weight off all the welds (it adds up)
Steel flares will adda few pounds on each quarter
Heavier rotors and calipers
Wider wheels and tires.
brant
kellzey,

I think its only about 1lb difference in the fg versus steel front valance..

URY914, with your door skin how much is the total weight once you put it onto a frame of some sort?..
also, the front and rear trunk panels you mention.. are those weights for skins, or panels with hinge attatchments?

finally, does anyone know what a replacement roof like roger sheridans weighs?

thanks everyone.
URY914
I installed the passenger side with dusz fastners. So maybe 1/2 pound worth of hardware.

I made one for TimT for the drives side and he is going to use the stock hinges and frame. Don't have a final weight.

The weighs I gave were for skins. Add a few pounds for hinge plates or inserts.

Paul
TimT
Im going to do a blow by blow write up this fall when I install the doorskins Paul made for me..

mine should be a worst case scenario, my car still has the window mechanism, and door bars, I plan on ditching the windows and winders, and cutting out the door bars, and bonding Pauls skins to the frames...

I predict a significant weight savings.
URY914
Tim,
You could drill a bunch of holes in the frame and even the very heavy hinges and save a lot. The stock hinges look like they came off a truck.

Paul
john rogers
As Kellzey noted:
1. Rubber pad behind backpad in interior...Gone
2. Back pad removal....Gone used some light Mexican carpet instead
3. Engine side firewall....Gone
4. Tar on floors....Gone, just POR-15
5. Carpeting....Stock carpet and pads gone use light Mexican carpet instead
6. Fiberglass bumpers vs stell and rubber and tits....Fiberglass front and rear
7. fiberglass vs. steel rockers....Fiberglass rockers
8. Fiberglass vs. steel valences....No rear valence

I also pulled the stock heater box, stock windshield wiper assy(use a power boat wiper from West marine), passenger seat removed, aluminum race seat.


Things that can add

Chassis stiffening kit plus weight off all the welds (it adds up).... Needed it for racing, plus cage
Steel flares will adda few pounds on each quarter....Use rivet on fiberglass flares
Heavier rotors and calipers....Stock rotors, BMW calipers
Wider wheels and tires....Lightest 7 inch alloy wheels made and Goodyear 9x23x15 slicks
URY914
John,
You cando all that stuff and you won't catch me happy11.gif

1527 lbs. w00t.gif sawzall-smiley.gif biggrin.gif

Paul
john rogers
There are some other things I could do such as: remove all but 4 of the fan blabes, remove all the cylinder fins, run a 4 gal fuel cell, replace the floor with aluminum sheet, remove the rear trunk floor, remove the dash and just run a shift light and oil pressure light, titanium steering column and I could loose 30 pounds or so!!! I probably still would never make that weight.....
URY914
-Remove a lug nut from each wheel ohmy.gif
-Drill holes in the roll cage mad.gif
-fill the tires with helium wink.gif
-Drain a little oil unsure.gif
-shave the tires down wacko.gif

The list goes on...

Paul
Joe Bob
QUOTE(URY914 @ Jul 5 2004, 04:06 AM)
Doors: Late model doors with the beam in them with glass and everything is somewhere around 30 pounds.

A f/g door with the inner panel like GT Products sells is around 10 pounds.

The door skins that I make (and sell BTW) are 4 pounds.

Front hood: Stock is about 35 pounds with hinges and headlight covers. More when you remove all the headlight crap.

F/g hood is around 12-14 pounds

Read trunk lid: about 30 pounds.

F/g trunk would be 10-11

Also replace the roof with a lightweight piece and save another 10 pounds.

Paul

Do you make any 911 stuff?

I wanna convert the cab over to an early long hood and RS style turn signals....
URY914
sorry mike,

914 only.

Paul
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