Would 2 1000 cfs fans in the engine compartment mounted on the firewall aimed downward (not an extreme angle) and at the rear of the engine cool engine temps?

What other methods besides Nickys, Shrouds, Radiators are there?

First question you should ask yourself is why does this engine run too hot ? Heat that was not created has not to be dissipated.

A good question to ask. I should probably say this topic would be relevant to 2.0L and larger engines. Seems that the engine temps have always run hot on the TypeIV. My hot range is defined as engine temps (not oil) over 240 F.

So this would be a discussion of methods to help cool the engine temp other than what I listed above.

240? That's not even operational temp. Heads should be between 270 and 370 ideally.

Mount an additional oil radiator with fans.

Many threads on this.

Doubt you could get enough airflow difference for additional engine bay fans
to help much.

John

Lean conditions also make the motor run hot.

The stock fan is only going to pull a certain amount of air.
Adding colder air would be the way to fix any issue.

You can add cooler air by adding a front mounted oil cooler, or possibly adding more side vents ala the boxster.

At the end of the day you have XXX amount of heat,so you need YYY amount of air that is cooler than that to dissapate the heat.
If you have enough air going by the heads, it does not need to be super cool, just a few degrees will enable a transfer.

The stock fan is limited in how much is can draw/push...so that is the limitation of volume.
Given the limitation of volume (and the design flaws in the stock system) you need a lower temp of air to enable more cooling.

Foley has created a new version of the top mounted fan which seems to keep his 2.0 liter race motor plenty cool on the track.
Ask him about some of the temp number...he has test data to prove his system is pretty good.

Rich

I saw his system and it's a combo of shroud and fan. http://www.tangerineracing.com/engine.htm#...an%20Conversion

I'm sure it works efficiently. The only caveat is $1600
I also saw Jake's DTM shroud at @$600

These are pretty well documented.
Any other methods out there?

So 270-370 could be used as a norm for most 2.0L engines for this discussion?

For head temps, yes. Oil temps you don't want to see above 220, and mine usually hover around 205.

There is NO head temp gauge on a 914 stock. The engine temp gauge is oil temps, not head.

Zach

Mine's not stock. I have an SDS EFI and the CHT gives a head temp reading. I use a dipstick thermometer for my oil temps.

I'd like to know if there's any other methods for keeping the engine temp (head temp) cooler other than the aforementioned.

If you are running hotter than 370 degrees your timing is to advance too much.
Install a EGT gauge and check the exhaust temp, if its over 1100 degrees change your timing if you don't want melted pistons and drop your valves sets.

Check this site out.
http://www.thesensorconnection.net/content...and-information

Might want to get some ballast. Those 2 1000 cfs fans should get you some air. As in HoverCraft.

I have a pair of the "twin barrel" upper plenums that we sourced for test work.. They are new, no use for them. 250.00
Only good for AX IMHO

Might want to get some ballast. Those 2 1000 cfs fans should get you some air. As in HoverCraft.
[/quote]

Yeah, my mistake 2 1000cfm not cfs.

But at very little velocity.. Electric solutions are very poor, I'd almost give the ones away that I have.

I've wondered about something simple-
scoop like deflectors underneath instead of the flat flaps...
maybe create a venturi type panel along the insides of the sail panels to get some value out of that huge vacuum created by the roof to trunk interface...

As someone mentioned, check your timing. Also, with a SDS, you can adjust the air/fuel ratio if needed. If you have the correct a/f ratio and timing, then there is something else wrong. There are several threads here that comment on adding an external oil cooler. I have done so, using a Mocal cooler with an added fan. Not too expensive, and works great. I have photos posted somewhere on the site. The Mocal adapter has build in thermostat, so the system is pretty much self maintaining; allows quick heat ups, but keeps maximum temps down. This was for my car, which tended to run a little warm on 100 degree days when I had the AC running. The Mocal unit gave about a 20 to 25 degree drop in max oil temps. I have also seen that there is at least a little correlation between oil temps and max head temperatures, although head temps can vary a lot depending on engine loads, etc. as well as mixtures. JoeO

Here is how I cooled my 914 engine.
Click to view attachment

I have an external oil cooling system I'm looking and my engine temp is not extremely high. It runs around 270 (from the CHT connected to my SDS). Oil temps run between 220 and 240 on the high side. So, I'll get to the cooler at some point.

That's an interesting shroud 904svo. Did you notice any lower temps using it?

The point of this thread was to create a resource thread so people could use the info when they had issues and also for me to learn more.

So as I was driving today I thought about my front air dam. It has 2 holes on each side that I can attach ducting. Then run the ducting to the engine compartment for forced air cooling. There's also a rectangle in the middle that can be cut (typically for an oil cooler) and I thought maybe run some ducting straight back from it to the compartment. Once either ducting hits the compartment it gets routed to run the air stream over each head section.

Ideas?

Ducting it right in to the tin is a bad idea in my opinion. I'd have the outlets of the ducts right in front of the fan so they get fresh air, that being said when in good tune even after a race the top side of my motor is cool...

My head temps are a fairly steady 400F in race conditions at Streets of Willow almost regardless of ambient temp.

Where are you going to run those hoses and the duct? Some 914 race cars duct air directly from the headlight buckets to the fan (evidently that rule was written for Brit Iron that needed some cooling help) but they usually do it through a large "sewer duct" through the cockpit.

--DD

I've always found that when you build/tune a motor right, the temps take care of themselves. . .

Band-aids for broken legs are just that; band-aids. The problem is the motor and/or the tuning. All the half-baked cooling tricks in the world will still net you a hot motor unless you solve the real problem.

Just sayin'. . .

Front air dam holes are small and a long way from fan suction...use them for brake and oil cooling.
I've thought about sail panel scoops, too.

cm
Click to view attachment

Nice lookin car Telly

Here is what Joe at 914rs came up with for my six. I originally had an auxillary front oil tank but it took up a lot of room and you had to run the lines through the interior of the car, which would make the car unbearable in the summer. Joe used two small Setrab coolers with a -6 oil tank. It is not an inexpensive conversion, but I believe it is the absolute best way to preserve the engine. You should think about cooling the engine from the inside out not outside in. The damage and wear is caused from the deviation in tempeture to the parts. The lower the operating tempeture, the lower the deviation, the longer the engine will last.