On a stock rebuild is the stock pump good to re use or do you all recomend upgrading? I know Jake does a retro to a type 1 pump.

Anyone make a kit?

Peter
74 2 Liter

For a stock engine the old pump is OK.

Take it apart and make sure nothing has gone through it, check the shaft/hole for slop, put on the new O-ring (in your gasket kit) and locktite the nuts.

I can make you a kit with the modified TI pump, modified cam gear and the oil pump cover.. Ready to drop in.

Go for jake's kit. It is a perfect fit and he doesnt charge much to modify the pump and gear. Just make sure you have two gaskets for the oil pump. My gasket kit only came with 1. Its no big deal (I think it was $1 from ACN), but i have to wait 3-5 days .

we don't use either gasket..

Am I correct in my observation from the video that you use a sealer?

Yes, but the video was done over 3 years ago... That was over 200 customer, and maybe 30 test engines ago... I have learned and progressed alot in those 3 years..

Oh. So just a dry install? No O Rings or sealent or any gaskets? Same torque on the bolts?

Any other major updates post-bolting the block together?

Whats the verdict? No gaskets OR sealent on the T1 oil pump?

No gaskets... Loctite 518 between the pump and case...

blueprint the pump and use 800 grit sandpaper to get .0015 clearance between the cover and pump gears... Then use no gasket there either..

If you use a gasket, the TI gasket works and coat it with "copper coat" in a spray can...

Any sealent between the pump and cover?

Thanks again jake!

yes, the coppercoat I mentioned.

Ok, I dropped the engine to find my oil leak. Has about 4k since my rebuild.
As I suspected the pump cover is leaking. Melling T1.
So I have a couple questions.
1. Does the Melling use an O-ring? I didn't put one in during the rebuild. But I see the seat.
2. Should I get a T1 cover with the upper rim to keep it flat?I lapped the Melling cover, but I don't want to go back in there again. At least for a while.
3. Should I use oil pump cover nuts? If so, which direction? Flat down or rounded top into the hole in the top.
4. I used the thin gasket last time. Don't think I sprayed with copper coat. I'm going to try the 518 only this time.

Any words of wisdom?

Capn Crusty would disagree with you (but not me, I love the stuff).

And while on topic: Can the pump upgrade be done without removing the fan shroud?
I know the Capn says he has replaced MANY pumps with the engine in the car, I just dont know what all has to come out.

I installed a big front external oil cooler, and I dont know if the pump in the car is stock or oversized already.
So before I hook up the cooler I need to make sure I have the correct pump.

If I get under there to pull the old pump, I want to have the new pump in hand to make the swap.

It can be done with the engine in the car, but you have to cut away parts of the ribbing on the back of the fan housing and remove the 2 lower pump studs. If the engine is out, I wouldn't do it that way.

The Cap'n

10 year old post????

I still like to use the gasket and locktite 574, when I blueprint a pump the thin cover gasket is my clearance. On the cover gasket a hair of RTV rubbed (no excess at all) into the gasket.
One thing on sealants is many builders have favorites, some are more modern and many will do the exact same job, clean surfaces is the real key. Arguing about which sealant is best is often just plain retarded.

Melling pumps are crap, cast iron body has the wrong expansion rate with the aluminum case, it's too big and it will still need to be clearanced to work in a T4.

Type one pump in a type 4 conversion always use a steel cover.

I went ahead and headed to the bug shop to get a flanged type 1 cover. A whopping $10.
Then I modified it to fit the corner on the type 4.

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Then I went ahead lapped her flat.

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I wimped out and used the gasket with 518.

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Update. 500 miles and dry as a bone.

Great!
Usually a gasket with 518 is asking for a problem, I never have luck with it.

Only thing I will use off a melling pump is the steel cover.