jimkelly
Aug 17 2011, 04:57 PM
pics
should i be able to rethread these to 9mm without any drilling?
underthetire
Aug 17 2011, 05:05 PM
Tap drill for a 9mm is 7.8mm, so if a 8mm stud already pulled out, the hole
MAY be too big already to get good thread engagement on a 9mm.
http://www.kramerusa.com/DrillTapChart.htm
jimkelly
Aug 17 2011, 05:09 PM
good point.
what is the next best option that does not require a machine shop?
jim
HAM Inc
Aug 17 2011, 05:35 PM
Jim you need to tap them for M10x1.5 step studs. Use an 11/32 drill bit.
The tapping operation will go easier if you find a 16point socket that fits your tap so you can use a long extension. Aside from making it easier to drive the tap the long extension will help serve as a guide to keep the tap straight.
Go slow and good luck!
stugray
Aug 17 2011, 05:36 PM
I did this same fix upside down on my first 914 (learned later that the funny bracket in the trunk was to support the rear exhaust :-(
I drilled it once and used the inserts.
When it broke again (still hadnt installed the rear ex support bracket) I bought the step bolt and the next size up heli-coil.
So I rebuilt mine twice with no machine shop.
They held for many years after that (and installing the bracket).
So no need to be afraid.
I still have both heli-coil kits from 25 years ago...
Stu
jimkelly
Aug 17 2011, 05:43 PM
HAM Inc
Aug 17 2011, 07:05 PM
No need for a heli-coil if you use a step stud. Just tap for the step stud.
But you could tap for a M8x1.25 heli-coil which makes sourcing replacement studs easier.
A Time-sert uses the same size tap as a heli-coil and is a lot easier to install than a heli-coil.
okieflyr
Aug 18 2011, 06:24 AM
Jim,
Is that a crack on pic#2 (on the boss?) where the stud will mount?
jimkelly
Aug 18 2011, 08:10 AM
i don't know ???
i should get this engine on a stand.
let me remove the grime and get some better pics.
thanks
jim
--
QUOTE(okieflyr @ Aug 18 2011, 05:24 AM)
Jim,
Is that a crack on pic#2 (on the boss?) where the stud will mount?
jcd914
Aug 18 2011, 08:24 AM
QUOTE(HAM Inc @ Aug 17 2011, 06:05 PM)
A Time-sert uses the same size tap as a heli-coil and is a lot easier to install than a heli-coil.
IMHO Timesert is the way to go.
HAM Inc
Aug 18 2011, 08:32 AM
It's extremely rare for that boss to crack. It's the opposite one that is crack prone. The only time I can recall seeing that boss crack was from a mechanics screw-up.
I see a casting seam, but no crack.
stugray
Aug 18 2011, 01:14 PM
"i should get this engine on a stand."
If you dont have an engine stand for a type IV, I learned that the $59 ones from Harbor freight will bolt to our engines if you jockey the supports around enough.
Heres a pic of the tranny on it, but of course it works for the engine too.
Stu
r_towle
Aug 18 2011, 01:21 PM
Here is an even better reason to procrastinate.
It may even be a good reason to stop what you are doing entirely for at least a week or more..
You should head off to harbor freight and go on a shopping spree.
Head studs just suck...they are the worst thing to have to deal with IMHO on these motors.
I would wait until the last possible moment to deal with those studs ....rebuild the rest of the motor...but do not do anything unless someone forces you.
Rich
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please
click here.