Getting down to install day. Have a few questions and looking for comments/concerns on whats on the photos.

1. Should the CV/axels be installed on the hubs before trying to put the motor in? I'm running headers if it matters.

2. Same question for the clutch, speedo and throttle cables, first or after?

3. No heat, should those heater tubes be capped? If so, with what?

Thanks,
Kev

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I'm not sure on the first two Q's. I would block the heater tubes somehow though to keep critters and crud out. Maybe some metal screen to prevent trapping moisture inside?

Re the 'puke tank' - looks like it will be a bugger to drain in that location. Will you have access to the drain on the bottom? I put mine in the trunk for easy access. Not as tidy but I don't put the top back there so the space was open.

Going on photos of -6 engine bays, I believe the petcock at the bottom of the tank can be reached pretty easily blind (it's easy to reach and open now). I'm going to attached a hose and drop it through the engine shelf where I can catch it underneath.

As I remember, I left my cv axles attached. In retrospect, it would have been easier to remove them. I had to take off my rear valence and air cleaners to squeeze it under there. I believe I had to jack my car up 30" off the ground from the bottom of the bumper. I tucked the clutch, speedo, and throttle cable forward of the fire wall while I was installing the engine. I hope this helps.

Over the weekend on a thread I started about driving in the rain with an open heater tube, several people suggested the top of a spray can. I wound up not needing it (yet), so haven't tried it myself.

I found that a tennis ball blocks those heater tube very well. Also, a plumbing pipe cap could also work.

Kevin -
I used a rubber cap from my local Lowes for the heater tubes. It fits perfect and comes with the clamp.

Quick question - where did you get your secondary hard fuel lines (the ones that go through the engine shelf under the battery)?

Looks great!

I used to do this on a regular bassis.
Have proper lifting gear (see pic). 33 inches from the floor to the rear bulkhead....in my case with the car a little nose down (2-3 inches or so)
Axles out, air cleaners on, trans on, headers off.
Front tin off but laying in place......the sides are a PITA but ii will go.
*Cupped washers on the top & bottom of the engine front mount bolts*.(tape).....no washers is a real bad idea. Install those long bolts before the engine is in place. Guiding them thru afterwards is an exercise in futility.

A good *stable* with a fine adjustment lift is a real good idea. I've done it alone several times but some help don't hurt.

Pic 2 shows WEVO mounts with washers as I have no pics of the sport mount washers.

Lookin' good Kev!

Scott,
Those are the Tangerine SS fuel lines that I have installed, backwards I believe. They work better for me with where I located the regulator.

Kev

Kev,

That looks like a really clean install and is very encouraging. My _6 conversion is slightly behind yours as I need to finish putting the carbs and fan on my engine and weld on the mount.





If you happen to need a second set of eyes or hands I would be interested in volunteering my time to help you get your engine installed, assuming you are going to do it on a weekend.

I live in the West Valley, probably about 40 minutes from you.

PM me if you are interested.

Rob