I've got a four week gap coming in my AX schedule so I'm going to go ahead and (finally) rebuild the front end of my car. I've recently realized that I may not be able to get the front camber settings that my tires are asking for so I'm looking at options.
First, if I slot the strut mount bolt holes out what could I reasonably expect to get for negative camber before something else gets in the way?
Second, will the stock camber plates let me get to a couple of degrees negative chamber or do those have to be modified?
Third, if I were to install aftermarket camber plates would I expect to feel any difference in driving or do these just enable more aggresive front end setups?
Thanks,
Kevin
Full Version: Front Camber - what to do?
Hey Kevin,
1. Just slotting the holes will get you -1.0 before the......
2. Stock camber plates hit the tub on the inside. Shave one side of the camber plate down and you can get up to -2.0 (the inside hits the tub)
3. I would highly recommend the Tarret front camber plates. If they are legal for your class. The monoball makes the shock work right now instead of the rubber moving first. The monoball will also hold whatever alignment you set for the car (the rubber will let the camber/caster change as you load and unload the given side)
B
1. Just slotting the holes will get you -1.0 before the......
2. Stock camber plates hit the tub on the inside. Shave one side of the camber plate down and you can get up to -2.0 (the inside hits the tub)
3. I would highly recommend the Tarret front camber plates. If they are legal for your class. The monoball makes the shock work right now instead of the rubber moving first. The monoball will also hold whatever alignment you set for the car (the rubber will let the camber/caster change as you load and unload the given side)
B
Hmmm. Tarret, sweeeet. 
I notice that the Tarret has offset mounting holes. Will I be able to get back to around 0 camber if I want to for tours and the like or should I make sure I keep some cheap rubber handy once those go in?
Also would I need to slot the holes with the Tarret or do the offset mounting holes eliminate the need for that? The issue is that "suspension changes requiring machining" would bump me up two classes from AS/S to AP I would be at the rock bottom of that class (not what I really want
) Not that it matters right now, but, when I start winning... 
Thanks,
Kevin
I notice that the Tarret has offset mounting holes. Will I be able to get back to around 0 camber if I want to for tours and the like or should I make sure I keep some cheap rubber handy once those go in?
Also would I need to slot the holes with the Tarret or do the offset mounting holes eliminate the need for that? The issue is that "suspension changes requiring machining" would bump me up two classes from AS/S to AP I would be at the rock bottom of that class (not what I really want
) Not that it matters right now, but, when I start winning... Thanks, Kevin
The Tarrets have a stock location and a "more negative location". I personally wouldnt jack with the alignment for every fun run. I would run a crappy set of tires and wheels.
You should ask if the Tarrets are considered "machining"
B
You should ask if the Tarrets are considered "machining"
B
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