I build these myself, they use US spec bulbs and are of the same wattage as the original Euro types. THey are 100% plug and play, connect just like original units. You will need Euro lenses of course. The refractor is all hand made, soldered together and polished to a mirror finish. They sit in the original location and are wired like the originals. These units have actually passed German Tuv inspection, as I sold a set to Germany and they were inspected. The US units failed this particular 914. $150.00 a set, plus shipping from Sacramento Ca.. These photos are of cars with my units installed.

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The Stig- Very nice looking work.

Refresh my (old) memory, the white lights become the parking light or running light and the top then is just the turn signal right?

I really like that look. I already have the euro lenses but not the converted housings. I have bigger fish to fry but will be doing this conversion. Would they cost less if we shipped you our housings?

Thanks and again, nice work.

First and foremost, Thank you. Operation is as you described. The yellow becomes the signal or hazard only, and the small white light is constant on with switch in the first, or second detent. Park or city running light I think some people have called it. They also illuminte when the left or right signal stalk is raised with the key off. This is the park part of operation. I can do your housings for less, however I have about 30 here to pick from, that I have gathered over the years. Problem is I have had plenty sent to me that were absolute junk when I disassembled them. Most common issue is the socket area corrodes completely away. This leaves you nothing to attach the terminal end to after the units are blasted. You can inspect them by popping off the white terminal where it attaches to the housing, but be careful. The plastic is 40 years old. I have had plenty of those that are junk as well when I get them. This is why the units I have here are ready to put on the car and be used, and not have to worry about trying to fix ones I recieve for conversion. I do have some extra parts, but I like to keep them for my restored units. 99% of the time I replace the stud with a new piece of all thread, like the ones seen here. Most have severe thread damage, or a worn area where the normal area of the threads contact the clamp.

The Stig...

PM Sent

Just FYI for all, I install new #89, and new #1157 bulbs in these. The front bulb is 5 watt, and the signal side of an #1157 is 27 watt. The original front bulbs are 6 watt, but very exspensive to replace. You can find them however in the salvage yards. The orange car has the bulbs that were removed from some BMW. I use a standard socket, that fits a #89 bulb, and put it all together. Get bigger than 6 watts and you have a nicley melted lense. I managed this in testing!

Hey Stig
I have the lenses so I want the buckets to go with it but will have to wait for some Christmas money to come in. Plz kept these available and I will eventually get a pair!

Thx!

Mike
SD914

Will do. I have plenty to make!

I'll take a pair. Can you please pm me payment info?

Thanks

Mike

Two sets shipping this morning, one remaining for quick shippment. About to get busy on a three more pairs. Thanks for the orders!

THE STIG

Neat! I was working on installing the turn signal buckets just yesterday and referred to the workshop manual to help figure out the wiring and the bulb connections when I noticed the difference in the Euro buckets and the ones I was installing. Kinda pointless to install Euro turn signal lenses without the correct buckets... so, this is a

Nice looking product.
How do you refinish the inside and outsides?
The inside looks like silver paint. The outside looks like wrinkle paint.
I have searched for an economical solution to redo the original inside finish.
Best I could find was vacuum metalizing that cost $600 for a whole oven full. Even then it might melt the housings.

This is really no secret here. Its all rattle can paints. Jeff Hines ripped me here earlier, calling it a Krylon Resto, but I couldn't do it and make any money for the labor required if I used any real 2 parts auto/aviation type paints. I didn't even consider plating them. No one would pay for that. Its difficult to sell them at this price. The costs of paint/material in California are ridiculous, plus once the lense goes on, it doesn't make that much of a difference. Just don't clean them with Laquer thinner. I have the unit wired up to be a direct replacement for the original, just rerouting the park side of the 1157 bulb to the 5 watt bulb sitting in the refractor/socket that I hand make. I cut it, bend it, drilled it, and soldered it. Its all based on the original with an improved refractor design of my own. I tried making one that resembled the original, but it didn't reflect as well. Once this mod has been performed however, it cannot ever be a normal single bulb unit. I don't really make much money on these, but I can make up a couple of sets in a weekend. It helps fuel my Vintage Race car.

It was honest question as the seller thought they were OG and they are Not.

Grow up.
Oh here is the thread;
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=113944&hl=

could you put LEDs inplace of the 1157 and so on looking to do that to my 914 to reduce the load on the 37yr wiring

If the l.e.d. will fit a standard socket it you could use it. I am not familiar with l.e.d. automotive bulbs. I do not modify the 1157 bulb socket on the housings, only the terminal end. Once its modified the low wattage side is inoperative on the 1157 bulb.

THE STIG