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Andy
After fighting with seam sealer for while (it's sad when the best tool to remove that crap is a chisel) the last time I worked on my project I started wondering about having it dipped. So I really have two questions...




-Is there any place in the midwest/mountain states that will dip my teener?

-How much does this cost?



Thanks!
Ferg
I know there is a guy in cheyenne or maybe larimie wy that was dipping toyota fj40's for a denver restorer, but i no longer have that info, you may be able to come up with it by searching, the net.
Good luck
Ferg.
Katmanken
Prolly too far to go (eastern midwest) but....

There is a guy here in Cincy that dips and strips...

He's an old hot rodder named James Taylor (not the rock star).

American Metal Cleaning
475 Northland Blvd.
Cincinnat OH 45240

PH: 513-825-1171

He did my front fender and rear trunk for $65.00 apiece. Not cheep but good. Usta reach under the trunk to lacerate my hand on the rust. sad.gif

He was able to convert the rust bubbles spreading the folded seam, eliminate the rust iunducing foam pad in the trunk and provide me with a rust inhibited part good for 3 months untreated. boldblue.gif

One visit he was dipping a whole model -T into a rust removing "swimming pool". Seen engine blocks, car parts, yard furniture, you name it coming outa that pool.

Asked whole car price, he hesitated as all rusty cars are different. Ballpark number was approx. $1000. Model T looked great.

Dang, not only do I know James Taylor, but I worked with John Holmes blink.gif

Was John really an Optical Physicst? lol2.gif

Ken
Eric_Shea
There's usually a decent dipper in most major cities... you shouldn't have to go too far.

The only thing I would caution against is the price vs. the amount of rust you're finding. (you mentioned "tired of finding rust") Major metalwork can easily outweigh the cost of a clean tub.
qa1142
Keep in mind if you DIP it takes everything....

Heater tubes, good undercoating.... everything ar15.gif

Soda or dryice blasting is better. clap56.gif

Again most major metros have someone close that can do this. check Hemmings
groot
I dipped my tub earlier this year at a place near the Detroit airport.

It cost $550 for the tub and 2 doors. I didn't do the hood or trunk, but they would have cost another ~$70 each.

They would have e-coated it, too, but I was not willing to pay another $2000 for that... maybe a mistake, but I'll live with it since it's a race car.
sgomes
Ignorance here... what's an "e-coating"?

Shannon
Andy
I know it will take it all down to bare metal, that's what I'm planning on anyway. Also I'm certain the rust isn't too bad on this car, it's just in pain-in-the-ass places!

For me there's two reasons for having it dipped

-The car is just grimey - it was washed before I started tearing it down but I have taken at least another 10 gallons of crud off it since then - some of the paint comes off easy, some is just as tough as anything out there... Not even getting into the seam sealer and the glue that held the carpets/pads down. All these problems could just melt away... In a huge vat of acid!

-And honestly, things are going slowly. I knew it would but I don't have to like it!


I'll check into Cheyenne and Laramie (Wyotech almost certainly has the equipment), and I'm probably going to roll the tub outside and give it a good powerwashing, at least that will clean up some of the crap.
groot
Sorry.

E-coat is "electrocoat"...."Electrocoating is a painting method which uses an electrical current to deposite paint." ppg website http://www.ppg.com/car_indcoat/electro5.htm

E-coat is used in most (all?) automotive assembly plants as corrosion protection after a phosphorous bath and prior to prime/paint.
Gint
I looked for a dipper in Colorado, and came up with zip. It will cost you anywhere between $1000-5000, depending on how much work you do ahead of time. For example, the dipper my tub went to (in California) did not want any seam sealer on the tub. They don't want it in their tanks. If you remove it, great. If not, they charge you $75 and hour to do it. That's one of the factors that could drive the costs up. Then they need to do something to prevent it from rusting immediately. Rust prevention or primer or...

And BTW, you're using the wrong tool for seam sealer removal. Get a heavy 4" cup brush on a 4" grinder. Works like a champ. No hassle, minimal work on your part, takes the stuff right off.
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