I have dropped the engine and tranny and now have gone down as far as the piston cylienders abd heads, there were no gaskets on then at all the push rod tubes had orange silicone on the seals some were just o-rings not for the porshe itself some were some other kind of seals. I ordered a complete set from pelican parts, the 1st Question is this, when i took off the drivers side head one of the fins on cylender 4 partially broke off about 4 " of it, will that effect the cooling of it. 2nd question the pistons in cylender 2&4 and the valves are clean, the 1&3 piston heads have carbon bild up on top of the piston and valves cylender walls are smooth as a baby's butt, should I take the piston cylenders off and have them polished and cleaned or scrape off the carbon build up and put back togeather I dont have the ring compressor to put them back on. there were a lot of things that i saw that was not right or missing. any suggestions would be appreciated.

First off, what problems did the engine have that have forced you to start disassembling it? What things are you finding that are "not right"?

The pushrod tube seals can be replaced without even removing the heads. If you've disassembled the engine this far just to replace those, you need to stop, buy a manual and the proper tools, and understand what you're doing before you proceed. Doing this kind of thing blindly can break valuable parts, as you've already discovered with the broken fins on the cylinder.

no gaskets on the cylenderheads for one, very bad oil leaks on the passenger side when the engine was dropped missing several bolts, the engine mounts were broke on the front, the back 2 injectors were frooze had new injectors in those in which i stated that there was carbon build up on # 1&3 piston and valves the only fin that was broke off in a 4 " peice was on # 4 the 1st fin top right, there was a lot of reasons to pull this engine the seals were not origanal, the car did sat for 5 yrs not running got it running not right, if i am going to restore this car want to do it right, fully read the haynes manual and this engine will be put back togeather right as it should be. too many things were rigged on this, car, was a usedcar not mine origanally and I want it to be running right. I have already spent over $2000.00 on parts and still not running right new hoses new plugs points wires, ecu, vac advance on distributor that was not there and was sordered in place to run when i got it now has been fixed right the fule pump is hot wired to run to start the engine why I dont know when the wires are there, will ck the relays under the passenger seat when it's back togeather, it needed all new gaskets so i did what I had to do drop it and replace what needs to be replaced.

heres what it looked like

There shouldn't be any gaskets between the heads and the cylinders, so that's actually not a problem.

It looks like that engine needs a good cleaning, at least. It also sounds like you're already committed to doing a complete tear-down and rebuild, which wasn't clear in your first post. It sounded like you were prepared to simply clean things and put it back together.

Dude, don't know that much about the unseen workings but that looks terrible. I am in the same boat you are. I have a '76 that I will probably have to rebuild. Please keep me informed as to the kind of things you run into

Wow that is one dirty engine. Bet it ran hot too as nearly completly blocked off oil cooler. If you were to just clean it up it will run much better. My 1.7L was just about that bad on the cylinders I drove from Seattle to Pascagoula like that. Didn't know it till I tore it down.
Plenty of info here on the board about seals and sealing compounds. Do searches like "oil leak"

Broken fins are not that big of a deal as long as it is just a short section on one cylinder each.

The pic of the cooler if you look in the center wher you can see the fins, well i rubbed my finger over that it was totaly blocked. I have more pic's of the heads and cylinders the heads had no gaskets on them nor did the cylinders had no "lets see Auto atlanta calls it a head gasket w/ diagram, haynes book has sealing rings and pelican also has sealing rings so I am assumeing that it is a sealing ring, there were none! the reason I pulled the heads was all, injectors were fireing and spraying correctly in the viles, the front to cylenders were very strong 2&4, the back 2 cylinders 1&3 were fireing BUT not as strong, these are the 2 injectors that I replaced new, in the pic's cylinders 1&3 have carbon build up, same for the valves on the heads. I'll order new rings and pin's for the pistons and have the cylinder walls polished out, cannot find 1.7 pistons and cylinders.

During the tear down it had a Factory Air cond. compressor, since there is nothing other than this will not put back on, still turns and has oil in the compressor all the bolts were loose on that on the block, will replace the clutch cable outercovering or plactic torn off , Funny thing on that there was a worm gear clamp clampped on the cable on the pulley end, I guess when who ever had it before me put that there to space the clutch out, on the Fly Wheel bolts, they were supposed to be a 12 point bolt, they were 17 mm hex head bolts that were gound off on top to fit, it was balanced did drive it no vibration. The Tin screws well they were most al there but some were removed and used else where on the car. in the pics that i posted today the o-ring seals for the oil tubs this is how it came out and are not right size.
The reason for the drop well when you put new oil censor in and the oil light omes on after it warmmed up, and the car died at all stops and would have to restart, and all the oil leaks, rear main leaking front was questionable will repace anyway I thought it would be better to do this to actually know and run like it should run.
The Body as normal will have to replace the battery tray rotted through and brace while I'm there will remove the light rust on the metal there to see if it needs replaced, there is a Silver dollarsized rust spot on the drivers side roll bar right above the door handle and the jack pole drivers side rusted off may have to replace that longitudnal other than that the rest of the body other than the color it was originally signal orange was poorly painted over metalic blue will replace all body metal with metal and repaint it.

2 of 4

3 of 4

4 of 4

Wow, now that looks filthy.

Hey Joe, I guess my engine isn't that bad after all...

Listen to everyone, get a Haynes manual and do it right.

Also, Joe is rebuilding my engine.

Here's what he found.

the guys are right NO seals between cylinder head and cylinders !
if you had 'em throw them away, if you bought 'em new, sell them on ebay.

as for the rest, a good cleaning first, buy a case of brake-cleaner and spray down all that dirt and oil-grime.
then inspect carefully for cracks in the heads etc.

you'll be surprised how much cleaning one can do on those little suckers ...
Andy

I can't emphasize this more...Buy Jake Raby's video...it is very heplful.

The dark stains on the heads are due to the leaks caused by the original copper gaskets...VW made a mistake...not to be used.

Peter
74 2 Liter

I wouldn't have got this far without my haynes book! the thing I am most concerned about is the 1&3 pistons w/ all the carbon build up have not taken off the cylinders, will take a brush and wd-40 then simple green to clean off the lower portion of the engine have already got the top part cleanned off. I'm this far I do probly need to put new rings and pins in the pistons do You guys agree? I do have more pic's of everything before the tear down the drivers side was also filled with oil and dirt. will not put those gasket rings in did come with the kit, another question I have is the kit has red gaskets 8 of them and green gaxkets 8 of those are those for the oil tubes? the red's are i know?
the head gaskets or the for the heads were not on the car what you see in the pics was all that was there.

Are you looking for a performance increase at all, or is it going back stock? This would be the time for pistons/cylinders & crank/cam bearings, as long as you're going this far.

OH, Jake's video is great.

going back stock for now. where can i get this video?

Guy's, while were at it, I think I will pick up Jake's video as well. C'mon Jake, giveus the details and the $ are on the way.

How many miles on this engine?? looks like a 80hp 1.7l to me....
Take the heads apart and check the valve and valve guides for wear!
Looks like its had a lot of hard miles on it......so you should check everything for wear. Just slopping new parts on a tired block isn't the greatest idea. Proper machine work is the ticket to a lasting motor. Proper clearances for the bearing, rods, etc are really important!

Geoff

To get Jake's video go to www.aircooledtechnology.com and call the number he has on one of the pages. I got mine a few days later. J C Whitney also has the video . It's called the "bug Me " series and it's the Type 4 video [3 hrs]. They sell it for $30.00

BTW...pull out the lifters [keeping them in order] and check the wear. If they are starting to cup it's probably a good idea to crack open the case.

The OD stopped at 63366.9, thanks for the info on the video, the engine looks like it has been gone through once already so not for sure it is orignal miles the bolts on the flywheel were not 12 point they were 17mm hex head grounded off on the top of the hex head, also if you will look at the oil tubes you will see all the red sicicon on them and you will also see the silicone in the block or on the block where they were pulled off, the seals were not orignal seals. I would like to keep this a 1.7 liter stock will have the heads manafluxed for cracks this porsche will stay a d-jet I do not want carbs, it was so dirty with the sand and oil grime I understand and see why it would warm up then after driving it die at all stops no air circulation in the oil cooler the south plains of Texas has bad sand storms, the engine had no thermostat or bracket, I thought the flaps were stuck I found out different. the engine will at all cost, try to stay 1.7 cannot find 1.7 cylinders or pistons all I have found is 2.0. If the cylinders which they look to be not scored or pitted will order new rings and polish the cylinders will not know till Sunday if it has been bored w/ new pistons. I've had TOO MANY BEERS TONIGHT ANY ONE WANT ONE...

I second the recommendation to use Brake Cleaner. Buy a case.

If the cylinders are in good shape, you should be able to re-use them. Do a search on "non-detergent oil" for break-in recommendations.

-Rusty

I don't believe Magnaflux will reveal anything on an ALUMINUM HEAD. Magna= magnetic
But if it is carced anywhere you will see it when the combustion chamber is cleaned up. Look around the plug hole and the section between the valves. When you start port matching the intake and exhaust you can see pretty well in there. After you take the valves out of course.

Good plan on the cylinders and yes it is 7:00 am Saturday I'd love a beer.

I think Ray Greenwood was having a run of domed 90.5mm pistons made if you want some new pistons. Post on shoptalkforums for him (usually in the fuelinjection forum).
Geoff

Well so far Ive had the heads rebuilt and gone through heads were fine valves were in good shape is a 1,7 so all the heads needed were valves and seats regtound I had them put and I ordered all the parts new valve guides, new HD springs and new valve keepers. As far as the pistons and jugs and 3 had 7 to 8 thousants clearence and were well worn 1 and 4 had 4 thousants clearence so Have on order new pistons and jugs for 1.7.
So now I have recieved several suggestions about the block. It is not torn apart yet But I have been told if the engine was not knocking not to break apart and leave it alone, But to me this is what I think,"I have redone the heads and will have new jugs and pistons which means higher compression, if i put it back togeather as is I think that I would be having to tear it down again because i did not have the cam shaft and crank shaft mic'ed, did not have the bearings checked they are not loose and are very tight no certical movement but will move foward and backwards about 1/8th of an inch, did not replace the rod berings so if put back togeather as is with new compression will it throw a rod down the road?
I cannot find Anybody around my area to break the block down I have contiplated on doint it myself do have a haynes book to help BUT then again I need cinfidence to do it will look around somemore to see if i can find someone that knows how to do this. just wanted to post this to let ya know my progress.
Thanks for all your help.