Typically, is it more cost effective to send a package using the Post Office or UPS?


Also on the rear left hand brake I had a wheel bearing that I had replaced but when taking a left hand turn, it makes an intermittent sound as it turns.
What kind of brakes are on the back? We also had to tighten the rod where the swing arm is mounted.

It looks like there is a 81 stamped on the outside of the caliper and something that appears to be a P I think also?
It appears that the inside edge of the tire has a tad bit of wear, I presume from when the bearing was bad??

My mechanic here thinks the pad and rotor might be worn uneven and glazed a bit and should be replaced??

Mainly when taking a left hand corner it chirps a bit. Driving down the road it vaguely sounds like there is a minute noise.
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Looks like an M front caliper from an early 911. Not sure about your bearing noise.

Eric will most likely answer your questions with certainty.

Shipping depends on how heavy it is and how far it's going. Flat rate boxes can be a super deal on heavy stuff.

UPS shipping you can actually track, the PO is BS cuz you don't get any tracking until it gets there, & price was pretty close.

I sent a F chrome bumper up to the PNW UPS & tracked it all the way with no problems.

Had a 2L banana muffler shipped from NY & seller used USPS, had no bloody idea where it was nor when it would arrive, couldn't track it, my postman couldn't either on his handheld. It finally came 10 days later than promised.

Both weighed about the same & longish boxes, prices within $5+/- UPS vs PO - former was a bit more. IMHO - worth the extra bucks to use UPS, just ship it regular ground.

No wonder the PO is bankrupt!

PS - if you're shipping within the UPS one day radius, then you get next day for the price of regular ground - ditto for 2 day radius. I'd bet that NE to PMB in UT is 1 or 2 day radius for them. Just ask at the local UPS center (not a drop ship franchisee).

The bearing has been replaced, but I'm wondering if it did screw up the rotor and pads?
I may take it somewhere else just to get a second opinion.

The package I'm intending to ship, probably weighs about 8 lbs and is headed for Discovery Bay, CA

What would then be the most cost effective for the UPS?

I just shipped a wiper motor and headlight switch to New Zealand. USPS wanted $80. UPS wanted $230. I went with USPS...

If it's small and heavy it's hard to beat a flat rate box. If you do it online, you get free delivery confirmation. I once sent a complete ring and pinion with spiders across the country for 10 bucks.

I send international flat rate boxes for typically about $43.00 and it includes some insurance

I guess I can just take the package there and plunk it on the counter and have them both give me an answer. Maybe it's not worth my time.
What about Fed Ex?

USPS flat rate usually not worth it unless the contents are heavy and/or long distance.

+1 on the USPS tracking is worthless/b.s.

USPS insurance is worthless (will NOT cover after they destroy package in transit... I've learned 1st hand)

SUMMARY:
U.S.P.S. = government business = inefficient (to themself AND the customer)

just my 02c

Mike

USPS Flat Rate boxes rock for sending calipers.

Those appear to be 911 rear M-Calipers. 1969 through 1983. The numbers are just casting numbers. They won't tell anything.

I just got it shipped for about $3.00 less, in the same time frame using the post office as opposed to united parcel service and that was with a tracking number.

This time I had the passenger rotor turned down at the same place that patched the tire as the first mechanic said I needed new rotors and pads and so I thought I would see if this would help the problem. I was hoping that this was going to solve the problem, but in fact has made it worse.
Now it really sounds like a screech owl on steroids. Intermittently when driving down the road and really howls when just taking a left hand corner. I noticed that the hub part get really warm.

Any ideas on what could be causing the problem?

I wonder if there was some damage caused when the wheel bearing went out about 2 months ago and we replaced that with a good bearing though?

If I do have to get rotors, do I need to start with a set or can I just get one rotor?

You realize that a left-hand turn loads up the right side of the car? Traditionally, when you get a noise turning left, you check your right-side wheel bearings...

If you do brake stuff, you always do one whole end of the car, so two rotors.

--DD

If I remember correctly, we checked the other side when all that was going on.

Also, someone told me that maybe the calipers need rebuilding or a bad brake hose?

He also centered the caliper better than what it was previously, so it don't make sense why it is worse after being turned down also.

Take more material off the rotor = (gunked-up) pistons now have to travel further out of their bore = caliper sticks even more.

Because those are not stock calipers, I would check once again to make sure they are centered. Should be around 4.7mm to get them close to perfect if I recall. Check inside the caliper body to see if you can see any rubbing.

Still sounds like wheel bearings though. Probably worse because he centered the caliper better... my guess is a bad bearing is causing excessive runout in the hub/rotor.

Those are also hub-centric hubs. Do they have the proper spacers at the base of the hub. You should be able to pull the rotor and physically see the spacer at the base of the hub. 5mm spacer. If not, your hub is wandering in the bearing causing wildly excessive runout.

Are the calipers on that side hot or just the hub part? Nothing under that hub should cause heat (unless there's a 911 handbrake assembly hiding under there that is binding)... so:

Non-stock Hub - Check for proper spacers.
Non-stock Rotor - Check for rubbing (top and sides of the caliper)
Non-stock Calipers - Again, check for perfect centering and check for rubbing/galling marks on the caliper body.

Also check CV's...

The bearing was changed about 2 months ago. I'll have him take another look at it all.

It doesn't matter if it was changed, in fact, that may be the problem. If they changed it and lost that spacer... you have found your noise.