In the middle of a clutch job- picking up the resurfaced flywheel tonight.

Do I bother replacing the main seal if it looks ok? I've got a new one standing by, but for some reason have hesitated. Maybe it was because I've read that when taking out the seal the shims will fall out and that have to be put back exactly where they were before. What shims? I can't find any pictures of these shims or other info other than talk about them on engine build threads.

If the new one will last longer than the one that's in there, it probably makes sense to replace it. I don't want to have to do this job again any time soon.

First, take a picture of the old seal and post it here.

My past experience with other motors was that the old seal will bake and become hard and then cut a small groove in the shaft that will start leaking and cost a small fortune to fix (unless you can position the new seal differently than the older one).

Check how flexible the old seal is compared to the new one. If it's hard, change it.

And for the shim, just clean and put it back. No issue.

There is also a rubber o-ring inside the part of the flywheel that goes around the crank. Replacing the thin washer and the bolts is also reccomended. One of those while you are in there things, hopefuly elliminating a headache later . Good Luck ....

Jack

I've done clutches in the past on 914's. Someone should be close enough in this World to help you, but I would not do what you are doing without putting in a rear main seal, a felt washer and the bearing onto the motor.

My mechanic has a method for even popping out the o ring, and that would be good to change as well. You cannot imagine what it is like to have an old rear main seal leak after all your hard work.

Good luck!

John

Pictures of the seal. Looks like a bit of oil pooling at the bottom. I don't think that was there until I pressed on the silver circular piece of metal arrowed in the picture. What part is that? It is easily pushed back into the engine. I think I've decided to replace the seal. Hope I don't ef it up.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

The following new parts are being installed (list is from Pelican's checklist)
Pressure Plate
Clutch Disc
Throw-out bearing
Throw-out fork bushing
Pilot bearing
Felt washer
throw-out bearing guide clips
Flywheel o-ring & metal washer/gasket
new flywheel bolts


What bearing do you mean?

BTW, guy who resurfaced the flywheel recognized it as a VW part and said that he could tell that "a lot of material had been taken off before". But I think he said that he only removed about .034".

Pilot Bearing.

It is in your list. No problem.

I am about to do the same job sometime this winter on my Orange 2.0L

Exactly your list but also new trailing arms, bushings, 4 bolt hubs, calipers, rotors, rear bearings, plates, Elephant trailing arm bushings and rods, O Ring, Rear Main Seal, rotor dust guards, and other stuff I can't remember all the names of.

Been planning it for 2 years and slowly getting all the parts. Eric Shea brakes are talking to me at night. They are a work of art.

Got the fronts done this summer, now a week's work on the rear.

Also have a rebuilt (by THOMAS) 901 sideshifter and Tangerine halfshafts in ORANGE!

Old men can dream. This will be a dream come true by Christmas.

J

Nice! Be prepared to add CV joints to your list. It's worth inspecting them 'while yer in there'. Do a search for my other thread with pictures of the CVs I ended up replacing.l

The silver thing is your crank end play shims , don't lose them . Put them back in as they come out it should be ok , should be three ( 3 ) of them .

Jack

replace the seal.
You wont be going back in there for a long time...get it done now.

The shims wont fall out...

rich

Will do. I don't think my back would let me do this job again any time soon.

I have heard mention that there's a special tool to install the seal. Or can I just use something flat to lay over it and tap it in?

pvc pipe...available at your local HD

Word. Thanks, Rich.