I have a 74 2.0 with the factory fuel injection. I have replaced plugs, cylinder head temp sensor, electronic ignition/ coil, air filter, relocated fuel pump, fuel filter. All done about 300 miles ago. Car ran great for that 300 miles but now I have an issue I didnt want to have someone else fix but after a month of chasing I am clueless I can cold start the car and it will idle great and stay idling great 9/10 times. When I start to drive the car its fine for 30 secs to 2-3 mins then it will start to chug out and begin to die out, I can blip the throttle hard and it will rev for a few more secs then it will just die out. After it dies it will try to start but just cranks but never fires. It will then begin to have a strong smell of fuel. If I let the car sit for roughly an hour or more I can go crank it up and drive for 30 secs or so then it dies out. I have tried unplugging injectors to see if one is stuck open but I dont think so bc it is not constant. Let me know if anyone has any ideas. Please help, Im frustrated beyond belief I have messed with the ecu adjuster knob but does not help enough to fix issue. TIA for any help!

Did you replace fuel filter or just relocate it? Have you checked fuel pump for proper pressure?

I see you're in Georgia. There are a few 914 guys around that area that would be more than willing to help out.

Put that $10 towards beer and invite a few of them over, their knowledge is invaluable!

Look under the tank for a kinked fuel line. BTW, when you moved the pump, did you replace the nylon lines through the body? They were never meant, even when new, to handle 30+ psi for extended periods.

The Cap'n

Define extended periods. Mine are 35 yr's old. Or did you mean greater than 30 psi??

I relocated pump and replaced fuel filter, have not checked fuel pressure. I figured since I was getting a strong fuel smell it didnt have a shortage of fuel.

Your '76 was equipped with black 8mm Teclamit fuel lines, which are capable of handling the pressures found in a CIS system, 2-3 times higher than D-jet uses. They've proven to have a long life. Earlier 914s have a nylon line through the body that was meant to be a supply line, NOT a pressure line.

The Cap'n

i had the same thing happen, had kinked the line, but also had a loose line that was leaking, so pull the tank and recheck also hook up a fuel pressue gauge at the driver's side fuel rail, if its up then drops either the pump is bad or line is blocked.

also i believe if it is d-jet, the default is to run rich so a bad sensor could cause a rich condition, flooding out - a bad MPS on d-jet could cause a flooding out.

where in Georgia are you? anywhere near Savannah?( i'm in S.C. but only a half hour away from savannah)

With the work done, I would suspect a kinked fuel line or reversed fuel filer, but check the FI trigger points, contaminated trigger points have some of the same symptoms.
Good luck,
Mike

I'm near Atlanta, sounds like if it's a mps or trigger points they are both tough to find ones in good working condition right?

Check thru the other stuff first, but if all else is o.k. trigger points plate can be had for about $200 new, . M.p.s. can be tested, check to see if it holds vacation. If not, place an add in classifieds. Usually there are a few out there used in good working order for u.der $200. .
Are you running d jet,? Go to jeff bowlsby's site he is a fuel injection guru, and has the bosch manuals and other resources, and he makes replacement wiring harnesses etc.

Auto atlanta, automotion and pelican parts all carry much of what you may need if you can't fins good used stuff here.

You should also be reading the Rennlist PBanders stuff on 914 D Jet.

Pretty much the definitive inventory. Sounds like trigger points and/or MPS.

Not cheap, but both when working right, are instant fixes.

I replaced my trigger points in 2009. My MPS works properly. Leakdown test is on PBanders writeups.

Read it all several times.

Good luck!

John

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ecu.htm

MPS are available through AA and Automotion, not cheap. You can check MPS resistance and for vacuum leaks to determine its health or lack there of.

This summer I fought a problem where the car would run for a while, sometimes just 3-5 minutes, sometimes longer. Turned out to be a broken wire on the CHT, that would be the FI wiring harness wire, not the the CHT lead. My assumption is as the wire heated and expanded, it would break the contact. It finally completely opened up which then made troubleshooting easy. An open circuit on the CHT will make starting difficult or impossible, and it won't run as the engine floods quickly.

Also, do you have spark when this happens?

As mentioned earlier, see the following renlist link for troubleshooting:

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm

If it turns out to be your MPS, PM me, I have an extra that is not prime but works.