I am new to this board, and have a question that I haven't found answered in searching the forum. I have owned my 914 for about 7 months, and love it. It is my daily driver. It is a '74 1.7L (does that seem right?). The PO had installed a progressive carb. I bought the car with a box of FI parts. I think most/all are there, but don't know if they work. The carb is giving me fits in the mornings. How do I test the box of FI parts I have before putting them on the car? It looks to be the appropriate D-jet injection for the 1.7L. I would like to have the FI working before winter.

Thanks in advance for your help

Hey Bill,

Your best bet is to find someone close by with an injected car that will let you "shotgun" parts at it for testing purposes. I could go on and on about measuring this and that.. but the only TRUE way of testing them is on a known good running car. Otherwise you are playing with fire.

Oh.. welcome to the club you've come to the right place.


B

For the record, if its the factory engine and FI it would be a 1.8 with the L-Jet FI
Welcome to the Club!!

Spread out the FI parts on the floor and take a pic. We can then atleast tell what you have.
Geoff

Sorry I am so slow to respond. I will take a picture of the FI parts I have by the weekend. I appreciate the help. By the way, my VIN is 4742912108, manufactured 01/74, with and engine number EA065956. I have been lead to believe the engine is 1.7L based on the number (I checked in the Haynes manual, though they could be wrong). Also, the script on the back of the car says 1.7. If it didn't come that way, someone must have really wanted to change it.

Thanks again for the help,
Bill

welcome....


check out Paul Anders site:

D-Jet information overload

Look for page: D-Jetronic Parts Analysis and Troubleshooting

With a digital volt meter, you can test quite a few of the components.

Herr Meuller,
Thanks for the site reference. It looks very complete.
Bill

there are lots of easy tests that can be made of the components, like the vacuum holding test of the manifold pressure sensor and the electrical resistance of same. one thing i would suggest is to check the continuity of the wiring harness so you could eliminate possible snafu's from that. one source that could be used is the diagram in the clymer/lash manual. there are 2 good diagrams in it: 1) looks like the harness in that the connections are "to scale" or at the actual location along the harness in the pix just like the real harness. 2) is a diagram of connection pin #'s and pin numbers on the parts, that is, the pin on the connection plug is shown and the pin on the, say for example, the aux air regulator is shown.

Well, it is definitely a 1974, and the choices were a 1.8 or a 2.0 not the 1.7. There are a few ways to tell what the original engine was. The first is to check the engine compartment for a decal on the drivers side wall above the relay plate. The engine code was listed there. EC for the 1.8, and the 2.0 was GA. A more obscure check is to take a look at the decal on the fuel tank expansion chamber for the tire specs. If the tire spec shows a SR rating then it is a 1.8, and an HR rating would be for the 2.0 engine.

Out of personal interest, what is the data on the Karmann badge on the drivers door hinge post? The Lxxx is the paint code and the xxx9xxx is the chassis number.

DaveP

Bill,
Yup its offical, you have a 74 914 with a 72 - 73 1.7L engine,
Your right, someone did really want to change it....

DaveP,
The badge on the door post shows:
chassis # 219582 (what does this mean to you?)
paint # L99A (I think, hard to read in the garage)

Just a couple more questions on this mess:
Is there any way to tell the displacement of a rebuilt engine?
The box of parts I have are definately 1.8L FI parts. Will they work on what appears to be 1.7L? Am I sol? It appears I have all but the fuel pump.
Will any of this work with the megasquirt I keep reading about?

I may just roll over and go with carbs.

Thanks for all the help and information.