Hi Zach,

Some things to check on the serial comnnection:

1. The cable sould be a straight through cable. This means that pins 1-9 on one side of the cable should connect to 1-9 on the other end. This us not always the case. You can check this with an ohm meter.
2. The default baud rate for MS is 115,200. Make sure that this is the baud rate set on the Dell notebook computer.

I've gone round and round with the ECU connecting.
DIYautotune support thinks that the ECU itself is bad at this point. Either the coms chip or the coms ground going bad will cause the echo I'm seeing.

They have recommended a shop in Virginia Beach that will test and repair the ECU if needed.

If the ECU tests okay, I'm going to bring my laptop, cable and ECU and get the tuner there to show me WTF I'm doing wrong. This is right down the road from Scott, and I head down that way about monthly.

Zach

That's why you can't get shit done!

Did you turn it off and turn it on again??

What version of Windows are you running?

We've had troubles with Windows 8+ running some programs that use USB or serial ports. It seems like the program is running but it really isn't connecting to the peripheral.

We had to turn off something in Windows which authenticated the port or program. I don't recall the exact procedure. Had to do it for several different programs.

The "new" old dell came with Windows 10 loaded. My Acer laptop that I was trying to connect with the USB adapter also has 10.

I hate 10. But I don't see a way around using it these days.

If you can think of what you had to change, I'd like to hear it.

ZAch

I still have the three spare tester units. I can throw them in a box for you today if you want.

Yes please. Thanks!

Zach

Zach, about loading a program in Windows 10, I described your issue to my colleague and his response is:

There's a special startup sequence that you go through with Windows 10 to load unsigned drivers. But you only need to do that if the driver fails to install. It sounds like this is a different kind of problem.

Look on the bottom of the Dell to see if there is a Windows key sticker. If it was originally built with Windows 7, and the key is still legible, you can reload that version (Home Premium or Pro) onto the machine and use that key. There are registry hacks that will prevent an upgrade to 10, but I don't know if you even need to do that anymore since the upgrade is no longer free.

I hate 10 too, but it is "lighter". I have found that it breathes new life into some older machines.

Zach,
Did you check the cable and baud rate as I suggested in post 551? If these are not correct you will never connect.

And the verdict is...

The coms ground pin on the Microsquirt was burned. That's why I was unable to connect. The guy said once he replaced the bad pin it connected immediately. He says its a fairly common fault.

If I'm still having issues when I get it back, I'm going to pull the harness out of the car, and take the ECU, the harness, and my laptop with me to his shop when I go down to visit Scotty_B in richmond in August, since the guy's shop is about an hour further down the road.

If anyone was interested, the guy DIYAutotune sent me to to check the Microsquirt was:
Peter Florance
PFTuning.com

Zach

Peter is one of the good guys. Been around quite a while and very good with the MS units.

I still need to complete the new wiring on mine....soon...

Sorry I never replied. MY bandwidth has been severely limited lately.
The cable is legit, I tested it to make sure. It was one of the first things I checked when I was having issues connecting.

Also the COM port has been set to the correct BAUD on both laptops. The DELL D630 did have the BAUD set at 9600 initially, but that was corrected fairly early on.


I got them, and have not had a chance to try them yet. With any luck, I won't need to.

Zach

I have to send mine in to be fixed as well. But it is a resistor not a pin.

Wow. Did he mention if there was a reason? I should probably have you send those other units to him instead of back to me when you're done and check them all out.

No, he did not speculate on a reason, he just let me know what was wrong, and that it was a common fault when the ECU was to blame for connection issues.

Zach

So a brief update and a little progress.

I've not touched the car in months. On Sunday I NEEDED a project to take my mind off other issues. So I built a test harness (that only had power, ground, and coms in the Ampseal. I set it up on a switch with a 2 amp fuse in the circuit. Hooked my car battery to the system for isolated power. Plugged in my laptop, ECU, powered the system on and the ECU IMMEDIATELY connected to my laptop!

So, the ECU is fixed, and my laptop (I was using the Dell with the native RS232 port) has proven good.

I'm going to do some connectivity tests on my harness again (and check them against the test harness that I know works). I'm hopeful the the RX and TX lines are just in the Ampseal backwards (which would be my fault).

Should be in business soon!

Oh, also I've been driving the car a little as is. Only a few miles at a time... Man, I really miss this car!

Zach

Great news! I will assist if needed. We will be in the new house next week and should be fully moved by early October. Lift will be available.

baby steps to progress.

Today I bit the bullet and took the harness out of the car.
Hooked it up on my kitchen table, and instantly got a connection! I literally danced a little.

Again, all that was connected was switched, fused power, ground, my battery and coms. No other sensors were hooked up.

The ampseal connector on my car's harness is CONSIDERABLY looser then the one on the test harness I made. I'm sure its from plugging and unplugging it so many times. But for the sake of being sure, I unplugged and reseated the ECU.

Power on, no connection detected.

So, I think the ampseal itself may be the issue. Or one of the COMS pins inside the ampseal needs some love. I hate taking these things apart... they are fiddly. But that is my next move. Pull the COMS pins and inspect them. I think I have another new Ampseal 35 block on hand, maybe I just replace the loose block with a new tight one.

Zach

Now that I am following this train of thought...
I wonder if while chasing connectivity while the ECU had the blown COMS ground, I probed too aggressively and expanded a female COMS pin in the Apmseal block so that it no longer has a good mechanical connection to the male pin on the ECU?

Just another thing to test...
Zach

Its incredible how this drags.

I had sent the harness back to Mark to have him re-wire the Ampseal. Which he did. As soon as it got back, I hooked it up and have been happily communicating with my laptop.

In January I wired in an AAR, but have not had a chance to test it yet.

Last weekend I put the harness back in my car. Well most of it. Weather went from 70 to 40 in about an hour and I ended up getting sick. :-(
This weekend I'm hopeful to finish the wiring.

We still have salt on the roads here, and the forecast is for several more inches of Snow Saturday (WTF! - I've never had snow this late in the spring.)

I finally bought a 2 port fuel pump and will be simplifying the plumbing under the tank. Hopefully this will resolve the issue I was having with fuel pressure decreasing under load.

I know I can't make Hershey this year. So that pressure is off. But i still want to drive this car. And I have motivation right now from the trip to Amelia Island. So lets make use of it.

Zach

get yours done and I will finish mine...lets go for a ride!

Yeah, this is crazy weather. Still salt here also, so I'm not taking the car out.

Haven't started it since October...

Hell yes.


Zach

Fuel pump arrived this weekend. But, well, life. I've been stupid busy. Being sick as a dog for a week didn't help, and working 7 days a week.

Damn, this month has flown by! I'm so close. I need to make time and finish this thing!


Zach

Like eating an Elephant. However some Elephants are bigger than others...

While it is frustrating when you don't have time to work on things, I think it is worse when you have time but lack the part or have to spend lots of time on a minor issue that should take 5-min and then turns in to a Mongolian cluster F&*k and steals all of your time.


Hang in there. You will likely still beat me back on the road.

Been working on the car in little bites.

The gas tank is epoxy sealed with the Caswell kit.

The new pump is in place and wired in. No fuel lines are run to it yet.

I’ve bent up a hard fuel line to make that tight 180 turn after the fuel pump. Tired of fighting kinks.

The harness is back fully in the car, including the AAR valve wiring.

The AAR is wired, but the hose barbs are HUGE compared to what I need. I will either need to make fittings to step the hoses down, or replace the AAR with one using the same size hoses.

I’m close to starting the car again. Maybe this weekend. Won’t have a working AAR yet, but should be able to get the engine running again.

God all this takes me so long.

Zach

I looked back but couldn't find any info in this thread about your AAR, but if the one I was working on will work I can send you my adapter piece and you'll have to order a Hyundai valve.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=319149

Send me the model number of the Hyundai part and I’ll get it ordered.

Zach,

check out my solution for the AAR. Post 49 and onward.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...56751&st=40

If Im correct you bought a 2 wire unit. If your ports are as big as mine, I took some barbed brass fittings and JB welded them in there so I could plumb .5" hose, which is darn close to the 13mm stock.

or go with Marks setup.

Pete

Tank went back in last night. Front end of the car is jacked up as I need to get under and attach the hoses to the underside of the tank now. I'm not leaving myself a service loop for anti-kinking reasons, which has made everyhting a little more challenging.

But if it results in fuel pressure not dropping under throttle, then its worth it.

I may be able to start the car this evening. At least, thats the plan. In theory everyhting will work and I'll be able get my laptop on it. Or maybe just take it for a gentle drive around the block.

Zach

great news! Mine is running. I went for tuning run on Monday, but the rear brakes are dragging and I had bad brake fade.

Need to source new rear calipers.....

Well. Damn. Click to view attachment

I’m glad I only put 2 gallons of gas in it. Looks like I popped a hose.
Just finished siphoning all the gas back out of the tank.

I’m glad I took the time to push the car outside before cycling the pump to build pressure.

Uhh. I’d say the new fuel pump is delivering plenty of pressure.

Zach

UGH!

Keep battling bro. You are close to the finish line!

Back in the garage. Hose popped off the pressure pipe as suspected. Easy to fix but no time now as I have to go visit mom in the hospital, and have to clean up.

I have a really early set of Chris’s stainless fuel lines, before he started putting bubble flares on them. I just need to tighten the clamp down more over the hose.

Zach. if you have a flaring tool put a very small flare on the end. Just enough to make a ridge. If you don't have a flaring tool you can take needle nose pliers and gently bend the end edge out enough to form a small ridge. It doesn't take much. We used to do this to the copper pipe so that the rubber cone washers wouldn't slip off. Our pressures varied from 30psi to 90psi.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKDxqJunbqI

Its running! We are back to the point we were last summer. it runs but has a very high idle.
I love how brite my tail lights are with the LEDs. It has really made a difference.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9DxHsHTVQE

I'm connected to my laptop! That is the error that took about a year to fix! Now I need to fix my tuning laptop. The battery is DEAD and it only runs when connected to an outlet. One is ordered.

A slightly bigger issue is that the throttle cable is somehow trashed. :-( Looks like something was chewing on it, and the wire sheath is all fucked up and causing the cable to bind. So I need to order and run a new throttle cable. This issue is keeping the car from being drivable at all.

My fuel pressure is also set too low - 30PSI. But that is easy enough to fix. Given that it was late I did not test to see if fuel pressure dropped under throttle. Ill test that tomorrow.

Big steps!

Zach

I found a new Terry throttle cable in my parts stash. It may have come from Kens parts that I bought up after he passed (thanks buddy!).

I had Theo help me pull the old cable and run the new cable in and he was awesome. Still need to hook up the throttle pedal and the throttle. But the hard part is done.




(yes, we have 2 pin type jackstands holding up the car. I leave the jack in place as an added layer of safety.)



I was under the car with him, but he is getting old enough where he does not really need a ton of direction anymore. Just need to show him where things go and let him figure things out.

I should be able to get the throttle cable buttoned up at some point next week. I just need the AAR and I should I’d be able to drive it to Jim’s party in early August. 2 weeks left! eek!

Zach

Started to get on you about jack stands...but, now I see them.

One big thing I noticed is no safety glasses on your son. I didn't wear them for years. Then, after a near miss, I now wear them religiously when working on the car where something may go flying or debris may drop in my eyes.

I was using two pin type jack stands and the jack as well as an added layer of security.

What sort of idle speed are you aiming for? 2nd video the idle didnt seem high at all, though the vacuum was not great and it looked like it may be jumping around a bit.

How were the AFRs looking? Id be interested to see a data log and the current tune file.

Got the hose Barbs from Mark @ Original Customs for the Hyundai AAR. Just need to figure out the wiring now. This is the last piece of the puzzle folks. After this is just making it look pretty again.

Click to view attachment

Zach

Pins are numbered 1-2-3

The center pin (2) is the power in.

Pins 1 & 3 either open or close the valve. I'll look at my notes, but you can test it with jumper wires. Power to pin 2 and ground on pin 1 will either open the valve fully, or close it fully. Figure out which pin is the 'closer' and that one will go direct to ground with the resistor (you may need to play with the value). Wire the 'opener' to the MicroSquirt.

According to my notes:
3- Closes the valve (to engine ground, through resistor)
2- 12v power (from fuse panel)
1- Opens the valve (wire to MicroSquirt FIdle)
....edited to correct wiring pins 8/11/18

This little guy (and the BIG Bosch valves) work by making pins 1 & 3 fight against each other. When the MicroSquirt isn't trying to raise the idle, the ground on pin 1 pulls the valve shut automaticallly. But the resistor reduces the 'strength' or closing power. So when the MicroSquirt grounds pin 3 it is 'stronger' and can open the valve.

It's like having a scrawny kid trying to hold a door shut, but ever once in awhile a big, strong guy (MicroSquirt) pushes the door open anyway.

-------------
I haven't tested any of this on my car yet, but I would start with the 30-40 ohm resistor, but keep in the back of your mind the idea that those resistor values may need to change.
The value of the resistor is what establishes just how weak the scrawny kid is.
A 0-ohm resistor would mean that the valve would never move. Both sides are pulling the same.
A 999k-ohm resistor would mean that the closing side has absolutely no strength and can't even 'close the door' by itself.

Excellent. Just picked up a 40ohm 50watt resistor block from Amazon.

Just took the car for a 10 mile spin.

Clearly I need to figure out how to tune the IAC. Hot idle is about 2K rpm right now. Also the car flat out would not start with the IAC plugged in. I unplugged it to start the car and the plugged it back in.

Time to learn something new.

Zach

Mark (or anyone really) Have you played with the IAC settings at all in TunerStudio? They are under Fuel Setup Idle Control. I've been watching a bunch of youtube videos trying to wrap my head around it.

I have not found a way to import my IAC into tuner studio the way you do with all the other bits like the TPS and air temp sensor. It may be that TS doesn't really care and you just have to fiddle with the controls.

With the 40ohm resister, it feels like the IAC isn't open enough when cranking. Car starts fine if the IAC is unplugged. When its plugged in and the engine is cold, it coughs but won't fire. Makes a cool "phut" sound sometimes. So my first thing is giving it a larger crank value (I think).

Also, I think I have to do the 15 minute warm-up instead of sensing something else or going closed loop. The coolant sensor that is usually used to regulate warmup doesn't exist for me (its an air temp sensor.) I MAY be able to use the head temp sensor, if I can find out how to link it in. But I'd imagine 15 minutes after starting the car its as warmed up as its going to get.

From what I'm seeing this is how I get my idle lower. I'm excited to see an idle around 1000 rpm again.

I forgot how loud this car was. It has a really different sound then it used to with the carbs and headers. The high pitched scream has been replaced by a thumping base coming from the Triad.

Once the car is driving right, this winter I'm going to try and get some of the heater ducting back in place so I can defrost/defog the windshield.

Zach

Zach, I have used both the head temp sensor and oil temp sensor for coolant temp.

if you use < 180 degrees as cold, it should work. If you use the existing head temp sensor, you might need to do a temperature resistance calibration. I don't care as I just want to see above 180.

you might also want to look at pulse width cold and at cranking. could be you are too rich, thus have to have extra air.

I have ITB, so no fast idle or warm up help. had to get it working without. it does.

running MS extra. Prime pulse is around 13.5 @76 deg and 0 above 168. Cranking pulse width is 263 at 76 deg. and 100 at 191. I can't send you a screen shot right now, but can later.