Here is one that I haven't seen much discussion on. Other than the stock HE set up, what are you running. The only thing I see is Racer Chris' set up. Are there others; w or w/o HE's. And if you don't mind, what did you spend on your set up. Any regrets? Any positives?

As you know Kent, I run the Kerry hunter Header, with a Flowmaster muffler custom built off the back. I Love the sound, and it's not too loud IMO with the new muffler, vs. the supertrapp. The supertrapp was the worst power robbing thing I had ever seen. It doesn't make as much power as Chris Foley's header, but the price was right. I bought the header and supertrapp for $180 on ebay, and paid $200 to have a custom muffler put on.

I think for some people, it still may be too loud, but I don't really care....

No regrets here. It was impossible to beat for the price I paid for the entire setup, and jackets make fine heaters

BTW, I think I still owe you guys a video of the sound...haha, oops

Bursch is still a replacement option.
It bolts to the stock HE...
Had one for years...blew out the muffler and replaced it.

I just broke down and purchased a new one from Triad.
Sounds fantastic...no long term use yet, but it will see the road again in the spring.
http://triadwestperformance.com/Products.htm

Rich

I run a triad on a 2.0 Sounds nice!

I run a CFR EVO IV Silencer. I actually drive mine on long (7 hr) trips around the Northeast. And yes I have heat from my heat exchangers. The sound is pleasant enough that I really dont listen to my radio.

Exhausts that I know of:

- Stock (1.7, 2.0, and 75-76 versions)
- SSI (1.7, or 2.0 versions)
- Kerry Hunter headers
- European Racing headers
- Triad headers
- Tangerine Racing headers

For the most part, those are in increasing order of both cost and performance potential. There is some argument, of course.

AFAIK, the stock, SSI, and Tangerine ones are the only exhausts you can get heat out of.

There are different collectors and mufflers available for the stock and SSI units. There are different mufflers that can be used on any of the headers. They all have pluses and minuses; the Phase 9 stuff from Tangerine seems to be among the best compromises between noise levels and power levels, and the Supertrapps seem to be among the worst compromises of those. (Funny, the Phase 9 stuff costs more than the Supertrapps do as well. )

There are lots of home-brew setups, including a number of stock heat exchangers with the exchanger wrapping cut off. Those perform identically to the stock parts except for lacking heat and being very slightly lighter.

--DD

Thanks Dave, That is exactly the info that I need. I'm like Ethan; a jacket works fine. I was looking for an option to the factory 2.0. Every used one I see posted is over priced, by demand of course. Then shipping is a ransom. I've got a 1.7 exhaust system on a 2. that I would like to enlarge.

running a triad on a 2.0(but have 1.8 SSHE, so the triad dual outlet was made to match flanges etc.-i took off a monza - i really like the sound on these too nice, but not too loud, no a tinny vw sound at all.

whats up with that rear sway bar?

That must be the uber stiff setup.

When I bought my setup from Chris it was a bit cheaper than now, but worth every dollar.

I haven't seen many type 4's that are putting more torque to the rear wheels than 222, so IMHO that is the end test.

And the sound is great. At the hill climb up in Oregon I had people coming up to me and asking me what kind of motor I was running. "A four, no way." They could hear it from the top of the hill (finish) all the way up and it didn't sound like a 4.

So, do tell.
What is the combo that puts that out at the wheels.
And how high in the RPM's do you need to go to see that?

Rich

Built a 2.4 with "nickies" that ended up with a billet Scat crank and rods, J&E pistons, Len Hoffman heads (Pauter roller rockers), ceramic lifters, web cam. Raby specified the internals, i.e., the type of rods, bearings, crank, cam, lifters and heads. He also supplied the components. Paul Sauer built the motor, including all the special machining on the rods to clear the cam, in a blue printed 1.7 case and also specified and assembled everything outside including the external oiling system, fuel injection, linkage, all the filters (oil and gas), fuel system (75 psi) and electronics and all the other “stuff” that goes into a performance engine. Neal Harvey and Roger Crawford did the initial dyno work using a Link ECU.
We went through two stages. The first being the initial dyno mapping up to 6100 RPM’s where we experienced valve float due to incorrect valve springs. The second stage was after we pulled the heads and sent them back to Len Hoffman to install dual valve springs. After the second stage we did a chassis dyno run with Vic Sais completing the fuel map. Vic got 175 hp at the rear wheel and the same amount of torque. The engine now twists to 7,000 before significant roll over, I run it to 6,500 before I employ the Link rev limiter. The engine runs VP race fuel. Maximum torque shows up at five grand, but it pulls like crazy from 3000.

what crank dimension and piston diameter?

Rich

I got a smokin deal on a slightly used set of ceramic coated Euro-race headers for $375 through 914world. Racin headers can come in different diameter tubes, so be sure to find what you need. Mine are overkill for my 1.7 at 1 5/8" but hey, one day I hope to go bigger.

What, the stock bar in Philip W.'s pic? There is a funny angle to the shot that makes the bent part of the bar look like it goes straight down, but that's it.

--DD

Abarth exhaust

Dunno, it looks like it's hooked up backwards. Mine doesn't have the drop-links point backwards. They should point forward and up! Almost in line with the shocks.

Like in the pic above ...

Tangerine headers & Evo on 2.3 Raby kit with mild compression ratio (8.2:1) for pump gas (92 octane) putting down 135rwhp and 125 torque from 3400 to 5800. EGT's on all 4 is fun to watch--slight differences in throttle bodies really shows up at low throttle openings...the readout pic is at idle, so #1 & 4 are below 875 while 2&3 are around 1100F....they all even out at WOT around 1200-1300F. Oh yeah, the sound is, well,... it just brings a smile that you can't wipe off your face! Really, really hard to keep your foot out of it....

That EGT is the one I want to install.

Click to view attachmentThis may be an old Abarth system but I've never been able to really identify it. Bought is used at a swap meet 20 years ago. Super heavy duty with cast iron flanges. Ray

boxster muffler
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachmentHas anyone had this system on their car? It's NOS from many years ago and wonder what it sounds like. Bought it for my 73 project. Ray

Hmmm.....You wouldn't happen to have a pic of that installed on the car would you? Preferably a slot from the rear.

I'd like to see the piping from the heat exchanger flanges to the Boxster muffler connections. Did you start with a Bursch collector?

how much does that Boxter muff weigh?