Folks ,I have a question for you .

On fender flares we have either steel or fiberglass items . They should be attached permanently by welding or glueing/fiberglassing them on . Or they can be attached by being removeable by using screws/dzus fasteners .

What is your opinion of being permanent vs. removeable ? Also if one uses the removeable process , how do you attach them , screws or dzus fasteners ?

Does anyone hqve any photos of the screw/dzus method of attachment ?

Thanks to your input on this .



GTP

What is the intention of the car? PRIMARY use?

Street? Weld on steel flares?

Track? Dzus on FG flares.

Zach

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This will be a street car and DE/Autocross car . I have not bought it yet but I wanted some opinions of the pros and cons of permanent versus removeable flares .

Being removeable does make it easier to work on the brakes/suspension pieces and easier to remove/replace if damaged .


GTP

You can do anything you want and for enough money you can change it any time you want!

For street/ax you want welded steel first or bonded fg.

If it was an ax car that did not see street use, then the dzus fg flares would be the way to go.
Zach

I used to own a Sheridan bodied 914 that had the fenders attached with dzus fasteners. It was REALLY nice to be able to remove the fenders (in about 5 minutes) and have almost complete access to the suspension.

Are you going to leave the car in any parking lots where the quick release fasteners can be used to remove the bodywork?

Knowing that this is a weekend and many people are out at some activities , such as MUSR 2011 . Would anyone else like to add their opinions or other pearls of widom here ?

I appreciate those who have answered so far .

Thanks .



GTP

GTP,

Let's take my car for example

The evolution of my dzus fastened flares started back in the early 90's when I was completely bitten by the autocross bug and everything I did to my first teener was race inspired or meant to make the car lighter or faster. I was running in AP and needed all of the help I could get. One of those mods was to add much wider rubber along with a 5 bolt conversion, and with that required flares.

A friend of mine was also running a nice steel flared car in the same class, but when it came to making suspension adjustments on the fly after each run it was always a pain because he had to remove the wheels for most changes. At the same time, I saw a car similar to mine at Watkins Glen and decided that removable flares was the way to add the space I needed and allow for quicker and easier adjustment of the suspension. Plus, I thought adding flares like this was a lighter option than bonding them to the car and also wouldn't require a repaint of the car.

Fast forward. A friend of mine owned the car that I currently have. When he was building it, he liked my removable flare idea so much that he copied it and added the fender beading for a nicer touch of civility. He never had plans to autocross the car (and never did), but liked the look. Naturally, when I bought the car I already
Liked the look, and the removable flares have made it nice at times when working on the suspension especially when I changed out the suspension bushings and swaybar bushings last year.

They are solid as a rock and I would argue do not suffer from the same cracking that other glass flares do at times. I can sit on them, and they don't move at all.

Personally, if I ever built another street GT replica, I might be convinced to go with steel flares only because they look more factory. But, I would also instantly miss the ease of working on the car, and I'd bet the factory might be attaching them my way if the 914 would have had a longer racing life.



Dion

Used large diameter rivets to hold on my flares. Car is only used for racing.

I also like the druz fasteners, but worries about the flares walking away at some point, so stuck with the rivets.

Click to view attachment

I copied a car that was in the old VW&Porsche magazine back in the late 80's. Loved the look - the suspension access was an unknown benefit. It also gave me just a bit more room/flexibility when doind the oil tank on my -6 conversion.

When I paint my car (someday....) I will go to steel (and stock bumpers) - but until then, I am pretty happy with the way it is. The car has looked like this for 15+ years.

I also have zero panel flex.

I was thinking about this today. I think the lack of cracking in glass flares with attachments like this is because of the built in joint even though you can't see them move at all. Just enough give to prevent cracking.

Cool looking Martini inspired 914.

Dion

I have always liked the look of the welting for dzus fastened FG flares.

Zach

^ I agree

What can I say, I am old school - steel

Randal, Where did you get your fender flare kit from? i love that look!!! i'd love to replicate that on mine.

thanks

I have steel and have not come close to completing the car.
It will look great painted until the first ding
I also love the look of the Rivet or Dzus with the added convenience. No worries about a ding. Drive it hard... Still looks great but will never have the class of welded steel.
FG to steel bonding has come a long way but I could never see me going that way.

Mine are fiberglass and don like Scott's,,, rivets

I was under the impression that a few of the vintage racing organizations did not allow fiberglass flares. For that mater if you are still running a four cylinder no flares at all.

As usual that is the first question that needs to be asked; "Who do you plan to run with?"

I'm happy with the rivet on flares

For the car I'm building now...steel welded.

For the one I'm planning...I'll be riveting FG flares.

It's all a matter of what you want the car to look like.

I WOULD say that you should only do glass flares if you're planning on showing the rivets. Trying to match them to the steel doesn't ever work out well.

On my silver car I molded the fiberglass flares in. I shaped them and brought them in from the back. then filled (left a very thin layer of bondo on steel) and added a thin layer of fiberglass between the flares and the stock steel. I sold the car quite a few years ago, and I don't think the glass every cracked.